NE Sailboat wrote:

Planning for spring. I will rebed my stanchion bases. Under the
deck, the backing is a thin piece of fiberglass. I would like to give
the bases a bit more support. I came across the material Starboard.
snip

NOT!!!!

These days even scrap metal prices have skyrocketed.

Brass is a NO-NO around salt water, aluminum is marginal, S/S would be
a good choice, but a total PITA to machine.

My choice would be epoxy/knitted glass.

Get a couple of yards of double bias, knitted glass, say 17 or 24 OZ.

Lay up about 4-5 layers on a plastic covered sheet of plywood.

(This will provide a panel that has at least 68 OZ of glass, will be a
minimum of about 3/16" thick, and probably stronger than the rest of
your boat.)

When cured, cut pieces to size with a saber saw, then drill as required.

Bed these pieces of glass to the underside of the deck with fairing
putty (Epoxy/micro-balloons) using the stanchion fasteners, just
snugged, to locate and hold ass'y till cured.

Give it a week to cure.

When they grind the boat up for the land fill, those pads will still
be doing their job.

Lew

Gordon ,, that idea of the cut up cutting board ?? Pretty good. I wonder
what thickness the cutting board material is?

Probably 1/2" anyway,, right?


"Gordon" wrote in message
...
NE Sailboat wrote:
Dave ,, I got a couple of numbers of sheet metal shops in the Dover area.
I will give them a call. The aluminum idea seems like a plan. Light,
easy to drill, will provide strength. If I can get the metal shop to cut
it to the right size ?? They should do that, I would think.

===============
"Dave W" wrote in message
...
You can get brass in any junk yard. Cutting is easy, drilling is easy.
I know, it will not stand up to being submerged in sea water..... If
your stantion bases are that wet, you need more than new backup plates.
DAve in Maine





or go to WallyWorld and buy a plastic kitchen cutting board
cut and drill to size.
g

Cave .. Sheep .. I did a search on the net. Cruising World had an old
article that popped up. Said to use Aluminum, Stainless or Marine Ply.


Casey ,, said to use solid block.

===
"cavelamb himself" wrote in message
ink.net...
NE Sailboat wrote:
Planning for spring. I will rebed my stanchion bases. Under the deck,
the backing is a thin piece of fiberglass. I would like to give the
bases a bit more support. I came across the material Starboard.

It says that I can cut it just like wood, but that it does not rot. What
about compression?

Could I use some small pieces of this as backing plate material for my
stanchion bases?
It would have to be bolted.
(even epoxy wouldn't stick very well)


I'm doing the same thing for two of my stanchions.

But I'm planning to use either plywood or a hard wood block
glassed into the under deck.

If I use a solid block ,, such as a piece of teak or some such .. maybe
marine ply ...

Would this material hole up ok?

One place said to take a piece of marine ply and smear epoxy all over it.
Then drill holes and then epoxy the holes ..

I should think that epoxy would seal the ply .. ???

=========

A couple of postings warned against aluminum due to different metals
problem.

If I reuse the piece of fiberglass which is under now,, add an epoxy'ed
piece of marine ply ..

That should do it ,, I would think.

On deck,, under the existing stanchion bases .. I may put another piece of
stainless steel. A little larger than the existing stanchion base.

This seems like a good idea if I have the room.

=================================
"Charlie Morgan" wrote in message
...
On Thu, 28 Dec 2006 18:36:16 GMT, "NE Sailboat"
wrote:

Cave .. Sheep .. I did a search on the net. Cruising World had an old
article that popped up. Said to use Aluminum, Stainless or Marine Ply.


Casey ,, said to use solid block.


If you use aluminum in a marine environment, it must be 5454, 5083, or
5086-H34 alloy.

CWM

===
"cavelamb himself" wrote in message
hlink.net...
NE Sailboat wrote:
Planning for spring. I will rebed my stanchion bases. Under the deck,
the backing is a thin piece of fiberglass. I would like to give the
bases a bit more support. I came across the material Starboard.

It says that I can cut it just like wood, but that it does not rot.
What
about compression?

Could I use some small pieces of this as backing plate material for my
stanchion bases?
It would have to be bolted.
(even epoxy wouldn't stick very well)


I'm doing the same thing for two of my stanchions.

But I'm planning to use either plywood or a hard wood block
glassed into the under deck.

NE Sailboat wrote:

If I reuse the piece of fiberglass which is under now,, add an
epoxy'ed
piece of marine ply ..


Grind out the old glass piece first.

You need to get back to a solid surface on which to build.

That was a given on my previous post.

Marine ply without glass sheathing will be a problem waiting to develop.

Lew

If you're up to some simple glass work, this is the very best way to do
this. Not costly, either.


"Lew Hodgett" wrote in message
ink.net...
SNIP
My choice would be epoxy/knitted glass.

Get a couple of yards of double bias, knitted glass, say 17 or 24 OZ.

Lay up about 4-5 layers on a plastic covered sheet of plywood.

(This will provide a panel that has at least 68 OZ of glass, will be a
minimum of about 3/16" thick, and probably stronger than the rest of
your boat.)

When cured, cut pieces to size with a saber saw, then drill as required.

Bed these pieces of glass to the underside of the deck with fairing
putty (Epoxy/micro-balloons) using the stanchion fasteners, just
snugged, to locate and hold ass'y till cured.

Give it a week to cure.

When they grind the boat up for the land fill, those pads will still
be doing their job.

Lew

Planning for spring. I will rebed my stanchion bases. Under the deck,
the backing is a thin piece of fiberglass. I would like to give the bases
a bit more support. I came across the material Starboard.

For myself, I would have gone with marine ply, but the idea of using a
plastic cutting board is simple, cheap and brilliant. I can definitely see
myself using it in future!

If you decide to go with stainless, get it cut for you (try to find a shop
with a guillotine, thats the quickest way to cut it and they probably wont
charge). You'll need a good supply of quality drill bits; think cobalt, not
the $20 for 100 bits kit.

If you go with aluminum, it neednt be one of the 5000 grade varieties....
while this is what we use at work for building boats, i wouldnt class the
underside of a deck as being a marine environment. You could get away with
pretty much any old garden variety of aluminum here. You can cut it with
any tool that you would use for wood working that has a carbide tip blade
(sawzall, circular saw, table saw etc) it even hacksaws pretty easy.
drilling is a breeze.

regardless of what you choose, re-bed the stanchion above deck with a
quality bedding compound (3M is pretty good) not with liquid nails, epoxy or
whatever else you have in your tool box. *Do not* use bedding compound under
the deck! If you have water getting through from the top of the deck, you
want to know about it. If you seal the bottom as well, the water has
nowhere to travel except internally along your fibreglass or ply deck. by
the time you find out about it you will be in big trouble. For the same
reason, I would not fibreglass the underside of the deck.

Shaun

Shaun,,, I went out into the kitchen and measured a couple of cutting
boards. They were like 1/2" thick! Next visit to Wally Mart I will bring
my ruler. Who knows, maybe find a cutting board around 1/4" think. That
might work.

I looked in a few different DIY books and the mostly often recommendation is
Marine Ply . Measure the Ply, cut , Casey calls for a beveled edge to the
ply.

Then, before putting up under .. epoxy the ply to seal all the edges, and
bolt holes.

One other book showed a thin piece of stainless steel under the stanchion
base. Helps to spread out the forces of load. The base piece of stainless
is sealed with polysulfide ( 4200?? ), then the stanchion base is sealed as
it is put down on the base piece of stainless.

Under ,, marine ply.

I should think this would give a very strong stanchion base.


One other question ;; what thicknesses does stainless steel come in?

I've never bought any.

-----------------------
"Shaun Van Poecke" wrote in message
...
Planning for spring. I will rebed my stanchion bases. Under the deck,
the backing is a thin piece of fiberglass. I would like to give the
bases a bit more support. I came across the material Starboard.

For myself, I would have gone with marine ply, but the idea of using a
plastic cutting board is simple, cheap and brilliant. I can definitely
see myself using it in future!

If you decide to go with stainless, get it cut for you (try to find a shop
with a guillotine, thats the quickest way to cut it and they probably wont
charge). You'll need a good supply of quality drill bits; think cobalt,
not the $20 for 100 bits kit.

If you go with aluminum, it neednt be one of the 5000 grade varieties....
while this is what we use at work for building boats, i wouldnt class the
underside of a deck as being a marine environment. You could get away
with pretty much any old garden variety of aluminum here. You can cut it
with any tool that you would use for wood working that has a carbide tip
blade (sawzall, circular saw, table saw etc) it even hacksaws pretty easy.
drilling is a breeze.

regardless of what you choose, re-bed the stanchion above deck with a
quality bedding compound (3M is pretty good) not with liquid nails, epoxy
or whatever else you have in your tool box. *Do not* use bedding compound
under the deck! If you have water getting through from the top of the
deck, you want to know about it. If you seal the bottom as well, the
water has nowhere to travel except internally along your fibreglass or ply
deck. by the time you find out about it you will be in big trouble. For
the same reason, I would not fibreglass the underside of the deck.

Shaun

NE Sailboat wrote:
Shaun,,, I went out into the kitchen and measured a couple of cutting
boards. They were like 1/2" thick! Next visit to Wally Mart I will bring
my ruler. Who knows, maybe find a cutting board around 1/4" think. That
might work.

I looked in a few different DIY books and the mostly often recommendation is
Marine Ply . Measure the Ply, cut , Casey calls for a beveled edge to the
ply.

Then, before putting up under .. epoxy the ply to seal all the edges, and
bolt holes.

One other book showed a thin piece of stainless steel under the stanchion
base. Helps to spread out the forces of load. The base piece of stainless
is sealed with polysulfide ( 4200?? ), then the stanchion base is sealed as
it is put down on the base piece of stainless.

Under ,, marine ply.

I should think this would give a very strong stanchion base.


One other question ;; what thicknesses does stainless steel come in?

I've never bought any.

-----------------------
"Shaun Van Poecke" wrote in message
...
Planning for spring. I will rebed my stanchion bases. Under the deck,
the backing is a thin piece of fiberglass. I would like to give the
bases a bit more support. I came across the material Starboard.
For myself, I would have gone with marine ply, but the idea of using a
plastic cutting board is simple, cheap and brilliant. I can definitely
see myself using it in future!

If you decide to go with stainless, get it cut for you (try to find a shop
with a guillotine, thats the quickest way to cut it and they probably wont
charge). You'll need a good supply of quality drill bits; think cobalt,
not the $20 for 100 bits kit.

If you go with aluminum, it neednt be one of the 5000 grade varieties....
while this is what we use at work for building boats, i wouldnt class the
underside of a deck as being a marine environment. You could get away
with pretty much any old garden variety of aluminum here. You can cut it
with any tool that you would use for wood working that has a carbide tip
blade (sawzall, circular saw, table saw etc) it even hacksaws pretty easy.
drilling is a breeze.

regardless of what you choose, re-bed the stanchion above deck with a
quality bedding compound (3M is pretty good) not with liquid nails, epoxy
or whatever else you have in your tool box. *Do not* use bedding compound
under the deck! If you have water getting through from the top of the
deck, you want to know about it. If you seal the bottom as well, the
water has nowhere to travel except internally along your fibreglass or ply
deck. by the time you find out about it you will be in big trouble. For
the same reason, I would not fibreglass the underside of the deck.

Shaun




My supply of plastic cutting board is 1/4 thick and came from
Wallyworld. I just madeup 2 more stantion backings yesterday. Laid out
on the plastic with marking pen, cut using radial arm saw, rasp to file
edges and corners, drill press for holes and presto! Will take longer to
install than to make.
G

Gordon ,, your idea, and getting the cutting board at Wally ,, is great.
I'm wondering why no one else has done this?

Is there give to the cutting board material? Casey advised Marine Ply
because it is a very dense plywood material.

Then again .. so it cutting board.

You may have hit the big one.

I am going to cross post this to my yahoo group. See if anyone there has
used your idea.

Thanks,

=======
"Gordon" wrote in message
...
NE Sailboat wrote:
Shaun,,, I went out into the kitchen and measured a couple of cutting
boards. They were like 1/2" thick! Next visit to Wally Mart I will
bring my ruler. Who knows, maybe find a cutting board around 1/4" think.
That might work.

I looked in a few different DIY books and the mostly often recommendation
is Marine Ply . Measure the Ply, cut , Casey calls for a beveled edge to
the ply.

Then, before putting up under .. epoxy the ply to seal all the edges,
and bolt holes.

One other book showed a thin piece of stainless steel under the stanchion
base. Helps to spread out the forces of load. The base piece of
stainless is sealed with polysulfide ( 4200?? ), then the stanchion base
is sealed as it is put down on the base piece of stainless.

Under ,, marine ply.

I should think this would give a very strong stanchion base.


One other question ;; what thicknesses does stainless steel come in?

I've never bought any.

-----------------------
"Shaun Van Poecke" wrote in message
...
Planning for spring. I will rebed my stanchion bases. Under the deck,
the backing is a thin piece of fiberglass. I would like to give the
bases a bit more support. I came across the material Starboard.
For myself, I would have gone with marine ply, but the idea of using a
plastic cutting board is simple, cheap and brilliant. I can definitely
see myself using it in future!

If you decide to go with stainless, get it cut for you (try to find a
shop with a guillotine, thats the quickest way to cut it and they
probably wont charge). You'll need a good supply of quality drill bits;
think cobalt, not the $20 for 100 bits kit.

If you go with aluminum, it neednt be one of the 5000 grade
varieties.... while this is what we use at work for building boats, i
wouldnt class the underside of a deck as being a marine environment.
You could get away with pretty much any old garden variety of aluminum
here. You can cut it with any tool that you would use for wood working
that has a carbide tip blade (sawzall, circular saw, table saw etc) it
even hacksaws pretty easy. drilling is a breeze.

regardless of what you choose, re-bed the stanchion above deck with a
quality bedding compound (3M is pretty good) not with liquid nails,
epoxy or whatever else you have in your tool box. *Do not* use bedding
compound under the deck! If you have water getting through from the top
of the deck, you want to know about it. If you seal the bottom as well,
the water has nowhere to travel except internally along your fibreglass
or ply deck. by the time you find out about it you will be in big
trouble. For the same reason, I would not fibreglass the underside of
the deck.

Shaun




My supply of plastic cutting board is 1/4 thick and came from
Wallyworld. I just madeup 2 more stantion backings yesterday. Laid out on
the plastic with marking pen, cut using radial arm saw, rasp to file edges
and corners, drill press for holes and presto! Will take longer to install
than to make.
G