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#1
posted to rec.boats.building
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fixing a rubber gun whale strip
Hi there,
I need to fit a new rubber strip around the gun-whale of a fibreglass boat that I have been restoring for some time. I removed the old strip, removed all the old resin holding in place, and cleaned up the joint where the hull and deck join. I don't how many types of these strips there are, but this one is pushed over the fibreglass join and is held in place with epoxy or polyester resin. Now for the question what method/process should I use to fix the new one in place. The last thing I want is to stuff this up and end up with resin getting onto the newly painted hull and deck and the rubber strip not looking good. All help with this matter will be greatly appreciated. Regards Bruce. |
#2
posted to rec.boats.building
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fixing a rubber gun whale strip
"Stevens" wrote in message
... Hi there, I need to fit a new rubber strip around the gun-whale of a fibreglass boat that I have been restoring for some time. I removed the old strip, removed all the old resin holding in place, and cleaned up the joint where the hull and deck join. I don't how many types of these strips there are, but this one is pushed over the fibreglass join and is held in place with epoxy or polyester resin. Now for the question what method/process should I use to fix the new one in place. The last thing I want is to stuff this up and end up with resin getting onto the newly painted hull and deck and the rubber strip not looking good. All help with this matter will be greatly appreciated. I'd still use epoxy. You can use masking tape on the hull alongside the rubber strip to prevent epoxy from spoiling your paintwork. You could even make a plastic "skirt" held in place by masking tape. Meindert |
#3
posted to rec.boats.building
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fixing a rubber gun whale strip
Meindert Sprang wrote: "Stevens" wrote in message ... Hi there, I need to fit a new rubber strip around the gun-whale of a fibreglass boat that I have been restoring for some time. I removed the old strip, removed all the old resin holding in place, and cleaned up the joint where the hull and deck join. I don't how many types of these strips there are, but this one is pushed over the fibreglass join and is held in place with epoxy or polyester resin. Now for the question what method/process should I use to fix the new one in place. The last thing I want is to stuff this up and end up with resin getting onto the newly painted hull and deck and the rubber strip not looking good. All help with this matter will be greatly appreciated. I'd still use epoxy. You can use masking tape on the hull alongside the rubber strip to prevent epoxy from spoiling your paintwork. You could even make a plastic "skirt" held in place by masking tape. Meindert I still intended to use resin to fix the strip in place, I was more concerned about the best way to hold the rubber strip in place while the resin went off, and if I needed to do the whole length in one go. I am looking at 14 meters of moulding. Bruce |
#4
posted to rec.boats.building
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fixing a rubber gun whale strip
wrote in message
ups.com... I still intended to use resin to fix the strip in place, I was more concerned about the best way to hold the rubber strip in place while the resin went off, and if I needed to do the whole length in one go. I am looking at 14 meters of moulding. Ducttape? Meindert |
#5
posted to rec.boats.building
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fixing a rubber gun whale strip
On Mon, 16 Oct 2006 09:29:01 GMT, "Stevens"
wrote: Hi there, I need to fit a new rubber strip around the gun-whale of a fibreglass boat that I have been restoring for some time. I removed the old strip, removed all the old resin holding in place, and cleaned up the joint where the hull and deck join. I don't how many types of these strips there are, but this one is pushed over the fibreglass join and is held in place with epoxy or polyester resin. Now for the question what method/process should I use to fix the new one in place. The last thing I want is to stuff this up and end up with resin getting onto the newly painted hull and deck and the rubber strip not looking good. All help with this matter will be greatly appreciated. Regards Bruce. If you can, try and dry fit the whole thing and see where the problems might be- going around corners or whatever. Put bits of tape with pencil markings or snips cut out, like a dress maker does on both the hull and strip to align the fit for length. If it fits snug into a inner rail guide or something and has no puckering problems and looks fine when it's dry fit, then you don't need any clamps or at least clamps that don't exert much pressure. If you have the extra material try testing different glues because I'm not so sure that epoxy will bond rubber to fiberglass. If you need to clamp I'd probably use some thin strips of ripped scrap lumber and lots of those orange hand clamps to hold it while the glue dried. If the rubber rail doesn't deform when you clamp it (as it may actually be a hard plastic or something) you wouldn't need the strips- they're just in place to distribute the clamp pressure more evenly. Tape off the newly painted work beforehand and watch for drips as the clamps are fitted. Don't use old yellow masking tape, use that blue or green painters tape or you can lift fresh paint pretty easily, which is a very saddening experience. You can tape up a diaper with plastic sheeting if you're really worried. This is niggle work and goes better with two people. You can thicken epoxy if necessary with talcum powder or exotic fillers so it doesn't drip as much. You can also use West System G5 5 minute epoxy or similar to hold specific problem areas in place while the other adhesive dries. You could use G5 for the whole thing, I guess if you had your moves down. This is very usefull if you have a section that can't be clamped or fastened for whatever reason. It can also be mixed in very small lots. Before you perform the work try a full dress rehearsal from start to finish where all the tools and helpers and clean up stuff and everything you can think of is logically at hand and laid out in order of use. Few battle plans survive the first 15 seconds of engagement anyway so you'll have plenty of room for panicked improvisation as well, of course. Good luck, how I envy you. |
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