I like to put the stitches in first, make it all level and square (measure
diagonals), then put "tack welds" of thickened epoxy in between the
stitches. Make sure you precoat the edge grain pretty well before putting
the bead of thickened epoxy in and smooth the bead of epoxy so it'll be easy
to apply a fillet over it later. Use masking tape (etc) on the back side if
you are worried about the epoxy dripping through. After 24 hours, remove
the stitches and proceed with filleting and glass taping the seams. You'll
find that a Sandvik (or similar) carbide scraper does a nice job of taking
off roughness and for tapering the edges of the cured glass tape to the
boat. It's the one with about a 3" wide blade and a handle. Home Depot
sells a copy cat that works fine. See my techniques at my project site
(link shown below.)

Brian

--
http://www.advantagecomposites.com/tongass -- My 22' Tolman Skiff project


..
"Jonathan" wrote in message
...
I am realizing that there are a number of questions I haven't thought
about on this project, as start time approaches.

My commitment to my daughter was that we would build it over the next
two weeks, while she is with me on vacation, so my research time is
over, except for the real time help I can garner from this group.

I am a competent carpenter, as well as having worked around wood boats
all my life and restored one 30 ft Carl Alberg designed sloop.
see http://www.alberg30.org/CarlAlberg/WoodenBoats/Alestra/

This is, however the first time I start with a blank piece of wood.

The drawing show as step # 2, a layer of tape and resin on the inside
chine/bilge seam, that being the initial connection after the wire ties.

How do other people start to glue them up?

Would I then create a fillet with epoxy and filler? or is the tape and
resin the source of the strength?.

The drawings show two layers of tape and resin on the outside....

Thanks,

Jonathan