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Initial connection on stitch & glue
I am realizing that there are a number of questions I haven't thought
about on this project, as start time approaches. My commitment to my daughter was that we would build it over the next two weeks, while she is with me on vacation, so my research time is over, except for the real time help I can garner from this group. I am a competent carpenter, as well as having worked around wood boats all my life and restored one 30 ft Carl Alberg designed sloop. see http://www.alberg30.org/CarlAlberg/WoodenBoats/Alestra/ This is, however the first time I start with a blank piece of wood. The drawing show as step # 2, a layer of tape and resin on the inside chine/bilge seam, that being the initial connection after the wire ties. How do other people start to glue them up? Would I then create a fillet with epoxy and filler? or is the tape and resin the source of the strength?. The drawings show two layers of tape and resin on the outside.... Thanks, Jonathan |
Initial connection on stitch & glue
Jonathan wrote:
I am realizing that there are a number of questions I haven't thought about on this project, as start time approaches. Take a look here- http://www.duckworksmagazine.com/s/c...d/019/john.htm It covers the process pretty well. HTH Bob Larder |
Initial connection on stitch & glue
"Jonathan" wrote...
The drawing show as step # 2, a layer of tape and resin on the inside chine/bilge seam, that being the initial connection after the wire ties. How do other people start to glue them up? For their kayak kits, Pygmy Boats recommends you simply fill in the outside seam with thickened epoxy (use wood flour if you will finish it bright; wood flour or silica if you will paint it) to glue the panels together, then remove the wires before doing any taping. The epoxy glues the joint and serves as the base for the tape/cloth wrapped around the joint, reducing the probability of voids under the tape. After that, lay the cloth or tape on the outside and squeegee in the epoxy. Finally, fillet the inside joint with thickened epoxy before taping. The rounded fillet will give more strength than the sharp turn of tape/cloth. Would I then create a fillet with epoxy and filler? or is the tape and resin the source of the strength?. The epoxy in the joint provides strength to the joint itself, but the tape and epoxy distributes the loads around the joint, making it even stronger. The fillet on the inside also serves to distribute the loads. The drawings show two layers of tape and resin on the outside.... Designs vary widely, from taped joints only, to several layers of cloth over taped joints. Follow the plans initially, until/unless you find you need more strength somewhere (at the price of more weight). |
Initial connection on stitch & glue
I like to put the stitches in first, make it all level and square (measure diagonals), then put "tack welds" of thickened epoxy in between the stitches. Make sure you precoat the edge grain pretty well before putting the bead of thickened epoxy in and smooth the bead of epoxy so it'll be easy to apply a fillet over it later. Use masking tape (etc) on the back side if you are worried about the epoxy dripping through. After 24 hours, remove the stitches and proceed with filleting and glass taping the seams. You'll find that a Sandvik (or similar) carbide scraper does a nice job of taking off roughness and for tapering the edges of the cured glass tape to the boat. It's the one with about a 3" wide blade and a handle. Home Depot sells a copy cat that works fine. See my techniques at my project site (link shown below.) Brian -- http://www.advantagecomposites.com/tongass -- My 22' Tolman Skiff project .. "Jonathan" wrote in message ... I am realizing that there are a number of questions I haven't thought about on this project, as start time approaches. My commitment to my daughter was that we would build it over the next two weeks, while she is with me on vacation, so my research time is over, except for the real time help I can garner from this group. I am a competent carpenter, as well as having worked around wood boats all my life and restored one 30 ft Carl Alberg designed sloop. see http://www.alberg30.org/CarlAlberg/WoodenBoats/Alestra/ This is, however the first time I start with a blank piece of wood. The drawing show as step # 2, a layer of tape and resin on the inside chine/bilge seam, that being the initial connection after the wire ties. How do other people start to glue them up? Would I then create a fillet with epoxy and filler? or is the tape and resin the source of the strength?. The drawings show two layers of tape and resin on the outside.... Thanks, Jonathan |
Initial connection on stitch & glue
Jonathan wrote in message ...
I am realizing that there are a number of questions I haven't thought about on this project, as start time approaches. My commitment to my daughter was that we would build it over the next two weeks, while she is with me on vacation, so my research time is over, except for the real time help I can garner from this group. I am a competent carpenter, as well as having worked around wood boats all my life and restored one 30 ft Carl Alberg designed sloop. see http://www.alberg30.org/CarlAlberg/WoodenBoats/Alestra/ This is, however the first time I start with a blank piece of wood. The drawing show as step # 2, a layer of tape and resin on the inside chine/bilge seam, that being the initial connection after the wire ties. How do other people start to glue them up? Would I then create a fillet with epoxy and filler? or is the tape and resin the source of the strength?. The drawings show two layers of tape and resin on the outside.... Thanks, Jonathan In our designs, the strength comes from the fiberglass but most other designers rely mosty on wood for the structure and use fiberglass tape to cover the seams. It depends on the design. There are a bunch of HowTo files that explain all that with pictures at our tech. support web site: http://www.bateau2.com/ See the "Stitch and Glue" 101 file for example. Jacques from bateau.com |
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