I am realizing that there are a number of questions I haven't thought
about on this project, as start time approaches.

My commitment to my daughter was that we would build it over the next
two weeks, while she is with me on vacation, so my research time is
over, except for the real time help I can garner from this group.

I am a competent carpenter, as well as having worked around wood boats
all my life and restored one 30 ft Carl Alberg designed sloop.
see http://www.alberg30.org/CarlAlberg/WoodenBoats/Alestra/

This is, however the first time I start with a blank piece of wood.

The drawing show as step # 2, a layer of tape and resin on the inside
chine/bilge seam, that being the initial connection after the wire ties.

How do other people start to glue them up?

Would I then create a fillet with epoxy and filler? or is the tape and
resin the source of the strength?.

The drawings show two layers of tape and resin on the outside....

Thanks,

Jonathan

Jonathan wrote:
I am realizing that there are a number of questions I haven't thought
about on this project, as start time approaches.

Take a look here-
http://www.duckworksmagazine.com/s/c...d/019/john.htm
It covers the process pretty well.
HTH
Bob Larder

"Jonathan" wrote...

The drawing show as step # 2, a layer of tape and resin on the inside
chine/bilge seam, that being the initial connection after the wire ties.

How do other people start to glue them up?

For their kayak kits, Pygmy Boats recommends you simply fill in the outside
seam with thickened epoxy (use wood flour if you will finish it bright; wood
flour or silica if you will paint it) to glue the panels together, then
remove the wires before doing any taping. The epoxy glues the joint and
serves as the base for the tape/cloth wrapped around the joint, reducing the
probability of voids under the tape.

After that, lay the cloth or tape on the outside and squeegee in the epoxy.
Finally, fillet the inside joint with thickened epoxy before taping. The
rounded fillet will give more strength than the sharp turn of tape/cloth.


Would I then create a fillet with epoxy and filler? or is the tape and
resin the source of the strength?.

The epoxy in the joint provides strength to the joint itself, but the tape
and epoxy distributes the loads around the joint, making it even stronger.
The fillet on the inside also serves to distribute the loads.


The drawings show two layers of tape and resin on the outside....

Designs vary widely, from taped joints only, to several layers of cloth over
taped joints. Follow the plans initially, until/unless you find you need
more strength somewhere (at the price of more weight).

I like to put the stitches in first, make it all level and square (measure
diagonals), then put "tack welds" of thickened epoxy in between the
stitches. Make sure you precoat the edge grain pretty well before putting
the bead of thickened epoxy in and smooth the bead of epoxy so it'll be easy
to apply a fillet over it later. Use masking tape (etc) on the back side if
you are worried about the epoxy dripping through. After 24 hours, remove
the stitches and proceed with filleting and glass taping the seams. You'll
find that a Sandvik (or similar) carbide scraper does a nice job of taking
off roughness and for tapering the edges of the cured glass tape to the
boat. It's the one with about a 3" wide blade and a handle. Home Depot
sells a copy cat that works fine. See my techniques at my project site
(link shown below.)

Brian

--
http://www.advantagecomposites.com/tongass -- My 22' Tolman Skiff project


..
"Jonathan" wrote in message
...
I am realizing that there are a number of questions I haven't thought
about on this project, as start time approaches.

My commitment to my daughter was that we would build it over the next
two weeks, while she is with me on vacation, so my research time is
over, except for the real time help I can garner from this group.

I am a competent carpenter, as well as having worked around wood boats
all my life and restored one 30 ft Carl Alberg designed sloop.
see http://www.alberg30.org/CarlAlberg/WoodenBoats/Alestra/

This is, however the first time I start with a blank piece of wood.

The drawing show as step # 2, a layer of tape and resin on the inside
chine/bilge seam, that being the initial connection after the wire ties.

How do other people start to glue them up?

Would I then create a fillet with epoxy and filler? or is the tape and
resin the source of the strength?.

The drawings show two layers of tape and resin on the outside....

Thanks,

Jonathan

Jonathan wrote in message ...
I am realizing that there are a number of questions I haven't thought
about on this project, as start time approaches.

My commitment to my daughter was that we would build it over the next
two weeks, while she is with me on vacation, so my research time is
over, except for the real time help I can garner from this group.

I am a competent carpenter, as well as having worked around wood boats
all my life and restored one 30 ft Carl Alberg designed sloop.
see http://www.alberg30.org/CarlAlberg/WoodenBoats/Alestra/

This is, however the first time I start with a blank piece of wood.

The drawing show as step # 2, a layer of tape and resin on the inside
chine/bilge seam, that being the initial connection after the wire ties.

How do other people start to glue them up?

Would I then create a fillet with epoxy and filler? or is the tape and
resin the source of the strength?.

The drawings show two layers of tape and resin on the outside....

Thanks,

Jonathan


In our designs, the strength comes from the fiberglass but most other
designers rely mosty on wood for the structure and use fiberglass tape
to cover the seams. It depends on the design.
There are a bunch of HowTo files that explain all that with pictures
at our tech. support web site:
http://www.bateau2.com/
See the "Stitch and Glue" 101 file for example.

Jacques from bateau.com