Everyone on this NG is aware of the typical adhesives, but I would like to
alert those who may not be familiar with the 3M 5200 product. This is the
ultimate adhesive and not necessarily just where flexibility is required.
This stuff is incredibly strong. It is next to impossible to separate a
glued joint with 5200 without destoying one of both of the components. It
adheres to everything I've tried steel, aluminum, plastic and wood of all
kinds. It is waterproof and works through huge temperature change unlike
many adhesives. The dissadvantages are cost, shelf life and long curing
time. As a not, do not use as a sealer, it may work sometimes in that
department, but it is primarily an adhesive.
Steve

"Parallax" wrote in message
om...
All of this is probably well known to most ppl here but is new to me.
In making my two Mini-Cups, I have experimented with various glues. I
just cannot resist the temptation to do somethign a different way.
So, here is my opinion.

Gorilla Glue: fairly easy to use requiring no mixing. It has less
strength than epoxy and as been stated by others, no ability to bridge
gaps with any holding ability. It really needs a tight fit.

West Epoxy: Convenient with the little pumps for mixing, holds really
well and bridges gaps. Very expensive and no matter how much of the
colloidal thickener I use, it sags and starts to run before it sets.

MarineTex: Another epoxy formulation I think. This stuff I like most
of all because it bridges gaps, holds like hell and does not run.
Very expensive.

Bondo: As reccomended by the Mini-Cup plans. Seems to have little
strength and I wouldnt rely on it as a glue. It does fill gaps really
well (no strength though) without running. It sets VERY fast. Fairly
cheap.

Conventional Fibreglas resin (the stuff that stinks): Not too bad to
work with, not sure of its abilities as a glue, havent tried it as a
filler, reasonably inexpensive

"Steve Lusardi" writes:

Everyone on this NG is aware of the typical adhesives, but I would like to
alert those who may not be familiar with the 3M 5200 product. This is the
ultimate adhesive and not necessarily just where flexibility is required.
This stuff is incredibly strong. It is next to impossible to separate a
glued joint with 5200 without destoying one of both of the components. It
adheres to everything I've tried steel, aluminum, plastic and wood of all
kinds. It is waterproof and works through huge temperature change unlike
many adhesives. The dissadvantages are cost, shelf life and long curing
time. As a not, do not use as a sealer, it may work sometimes in that
department, but it is primarily an adhesive.

5200 will NOT bond to copper and does not resist diesel.

None of the urethane adhesives will bond to copper and only SikaFlex 291 can
be used for diesel.

The above straight from application engineering for both 3M and Sika.

As far as glues, etc are concerned, consider the following:

Resorcinol is required for white oak.

Epoxy is the glue of choice for everything else.

After that, it's all down hill.

If the cost of epoxy is too big a nut for you to handle, maybe you should
look for another hobby.


--
Lew

S/A: Challenge, The Bullet Proof Boat, (Under Construction in the Southland)
Visit: http://home.earthlink.net/~lewhodgett for Pictures

Although 5200 is a great product, and even seals tighter when wet, I do not
believe it sticks very well to UHMW either. And for those interested in
5200, note that 3M also makes a faster curing version (like 1 week instead
of 2). I think it's something like 4200? Can't remember... I only use
5200 for sealing things that won't be coming off again (hopefully).
Officially, it is an adhesive caulk, not an adhesive.

--
http://www.advantagecomposites.com/tongass -- My 22' Tolman Skiff project
http://www.advantagecomposites.com/catalog -- Discounted System Three
Resins products


..
"Lew Hodgett" wrote in message
ink.net...

"Steve Lusardi" writes:

Everyone on this NG is aware of the typical adhesives, but I would like
to
alert those who may not be familiar with the 3M 5200 product. This is
the
ultimate adhesive and not necessarily just where flexibility is
required.
This stuff is incredibly strong. It is next to impossible to separate a
glued joint with 5200 without destoying one of both of the components.
It
adheres to everything I've tried steel, aluminum, plastic and wood of
all
kinds. It is waterproof and works through huge temperature change unlike
many adhesives. The dissadvantages are cost, shelf life and long curing
time. As a not, do not use as a sealer, it may work sometimes in that
department, but it is primarily an adhesive.

5200 will NOT bond to copper and does not resist diesel.

None of the urethane adhesives will bond to copper and only SikaFlex 291
can
be used for diesel.

The above straight from application engineering for both 3M and Sika.

As far as glues, etc are concerned, consider the following:

Resorcinol is required for white oak.

Epoxy is the glue of choice for everything else.

After that, it's all down hill.

If the cost of epoxy is too big a nut for you to handle, maybe you should
look for another hobby.


--
Lew

S/A: Challenge, The Bullet Proof Boat, (Under Construction in the
Southland)
Visit: http://home.earthlink.net/~lewhodgett for Pictures

"Lew Hodgett" wrote in message
ink.net...

Resorcinol is required for white oak.

But requires a tight fit and high clamping force. Epoxy will do as long as
you sand the oak with grit 60 across the grain to provide enough 'bite' for
the epoxy.

Epoxy is the glue of choice for everything else.

Yep.

Meindert

I can't translate products to USA brands, but I've used epoxy and urethanes-
and I feel urethane has a place in boats. Not saying hulls or wet areas,
but there are plenty of other parts which have moderate strength
requirements, need to be moisture resistant, and are subject to some
movement. Urethane in a cartridge is convenient, gap filling, possibly
dearer than equivalent volume of epoxy, easy to remove the squeeze-out.
Easy clean-up ( except for the brown marks on my hands when I decide I
won't bother to wear the disposable gloves ..... ). For example, my new
engine cover was ply glued up with AV515 urethane. It didn't need the
strength of epoxy, and it was easier to clean up the squeeze-out than epoxy.
It's horses for courses.
David



"Lew Hodgett" wrote in message
ink.net...

"Steve Lusardi" writes:

Everyone on this NG is aware of the typical adhesives, but I would like
to
alert those who may not be familiar with the 3M 5200 product. This is
the
ultimate adhesive and not necessarily just where flexibility is
required.
This stuff is incredibly strong. It is next to impossible to separate a
glued joint with 5200 without destoying one of both of the components.
It
adheres to everything I've tried steel, aluminum, plastic and wood of
all
kinds. It is waterproof and works through huge temperature change unlike
many adhesives. The dissadvantages are cost, shelf life and long curing
time. As a not, do not use as a sealer, it may work sometimes in that
department, but it is primarily an adhesive.

5200 will NOT bond to copper and does not resist diesel.

None of the urethane adhesives will bond to copper and only SikaFlex 291
can
be used for diesel.

The above straight from application engineering for both 3M and Sika.

As far as glues, etc are concerned, consider the following:

Resorcinol is required for white oak.

Epoxy is the glue of choice for everything else.

After that, it's all down hill.

If the cost of epoxy is too big a nut for you to handle, maybe you should
look for another hobby.


--
Lew

S/A: Challenge, The Bullet Proof Boat, (Under Construction in the
Southland)
Visit: http://home.earthlink.net/~lewhodgett for Pictures