Everyone on this NG is aware of the typical adhesives, but I would like to
alert those who may not be familiar with the 3M 5200 product. This is the
ultimate adhesive and not necessarily just where flexibility is required.
This stuff is incredibly strong. It is next to impossible to separate a
glued joint with 5200 without destoying one of both of the components. It
adheres to everything I've tried steel, aluminum, plastic and wood of all
kinds. It is waterproof and works through huge temperature change unlike
many adhesives. The dissadvantages are cost, shelf life and long curing
time. As a not, do not use as a sealer, it may work sometimes in that
department, but it is primarily an adhesive.
Steve

"Parallax" wrote in message
om...
All of this is probably well known to most ppl here but is new to me.
In making my two Mini-Cups, I have experimented with various glues. I
just cannot resist the temptation to do somethign a different way.
So, here is my opinion.

Gorilla Glue: fairly easy to use requiring no mixing. It has less
strength than epoxy and as been stated by others, no ability to bridge
gaps with any holding ability. It really needs a tight fit.

West Epoxy: Convenient with the little pumps for mixing, holds really
well and bridges gaps. Very expensive and no matter how much of the
colloidal thickener I use, it sags and starts to run before it sets.

MarineTex: Another epoxy formulation I think. This stuff I like most
of all because it bridges gaps, holds like hell and does not run.
Very expensive.

Bondo: As reccomended by the Mini-Cup plans. Seems to have little
strength and I wouldnt rely on it as a glue. It does fill gaps really
well (no strength though) without running. It sets VERY fast. Fairly
cheap.

Conventional Fibreglas resin (the stuff that stinks): Not too bad to
work with, not sure of its abilities as a glue, havent tried it as a
filler, reasonably inexpensive