Epoxy is not THAT expensive. It used to be... but in recent years, it has
got cheaper in comparison to other glues.
Collodial is only one of many "thickeners" for epoxy... and probably the
worst for making a "non sag" mix

It will take you as near as dammit the same time to build something whatever
glue you use.
How much money will be SAVED for each project if you use cheaper glue?
Divide that by hours building time..
Last time i worked this out for a specific job.. I could have used flour
and water for glue... and still only save 21 pence an hour.
I value my time and effort sufficiently to spend 21p an hour enabling the
product to last more than 12 months!




"Parallax" wrote in message
om...
All of this is probably well known to most ppl here but is new to me.
In making my two Mini-Cups, I have experimented with various glues. I
just cannot resist the temptation to do somethign a different way.
So, here is my opinion.

Gorilla Glue: fairly easy to use requiring no mixing. It has less
strength than epoxy and as been stated by others, no ability to bridge
gaps with any holding ability. It really needs a tight fit.

West Epoxy: Convenient with the little pumps for mixing, holds really
well and bridges gaps. Very expensive and no matter how much of the
colloidal thickener I use, it sags and starts to run before it sets.

MarineTex: Another epoxy formulation I think. This stuff I like most
of all because it bridges gaps, holds like hell and does not run.
Very expensive.

Bondo: As reccomended by the Mini-Cup plans. Seems to have little
strength and I wouldnt rely on it as a glue. It does fill gaps really
well (no strength though) without running. It sets VERY fast. Fairly
cheap.

Conventional Fibreglas resin (the stuff that stinks): Not too bad to
work with, not sure of its abilities as a glue, havent tried it as a
filler, reasonably inexpensive