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lofting canoe tables in to plans
In my older edition of Canoecraft, what's provided is most of a conventional
table of offsets. You do need to loft and fair the 'body plan', the sections through the boat at seven or eight stations. You'll need a 2' x 2' sheet of plywood. Paint it flat white. I didn't find whether the given offsets are to the outside or the inside of the planking. I'd ask the author. If to the outside, you'll need to deduct plank thickness when taking patterns for mold stations. I wouldn't try to loft/fair the waterlines or buttocks. When fairing the body plan, be aware of the relation between successive ststions. Rather. i'd get out and erect the station molds, then using a planking strip or batten, look for bumps and hollows in the 'setup'. These need to be trimmed or shimmed. Any book on lofting will cover this basic stuff. Chapelle's 'Boatbuilding' is probably easiest to find. sebastian wrote: hi im planning on building a canoe. Specifically, I would like to build the 16 foot 'prospector' from moore's 'canoecraft' book, but the design is in the form of a lofting table. I know there are many books out there on lofting, but i have found them to be more convoluted and complex than i need for a simple little symmetrical canoe. The full size plans are available for purchase, but I would I like learn how to loft. Can anynoe provide a brief tutorial on how to loft canoe plans or maybe provide links to any known web pages which *clearly* and as simply as possible methodically describe how to loft -ideally canoes and specifically from the tables in canoecraft- or other small simple boats? |
#2
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lofting canoe tables in to plans
Jim Conlin ) writes:
In my older edition of Canoecraft, what's provided is most of a conventional table of offsets. You do need to loft and fair the 'body plan', the sections through the boat at seven or eight stations. for stripper construction, the strips are so thin and flexibe, that you need moulds no more than 1 ft apart. on a 16 ft canoe that means about 14 stations plus the stem moulds. since the hull is the same shape at both ends you only have to draw half the moulds and them make duplicates for the other end of the boat. you can draw all the half moulds on on sheet of cardboard and check them against the diagram in the book for accuracy and fairness before dissecting the cardboard to make plywood moulds. some peopel have used cardboard moulds. when setting up the moulds on the strongback the'll have to be checked again for fairness before planking. I don't think that's called lofting. Lofting means checking all the lines in the drawings against each other on a lifesize diagram of the boat. you'd need a 16 ft roll of drawing of paper. they actually used to do that and pin the drawing up on the wall or draw it on the floor. Its a good way of cross checking for mistakes. with so many moulds fairing is more accurate in stripper construction. setting up is described in chapter 7 (I have the 1983 edition). Moores does say to make sure the moulds are good and don't just borrow somone's and use them without checking they're fair (ie will produce a smooth-flowing hull without any bumps or sags in it). there is a photo showing the moulds I made of the prospector in the book on my website. look under Boats, Boat Designs, and 12 Foot Camping Sailboat (I think that's what I called it). The one photos shows a progression of moulds I did to model this boat and compare it with the prospector from Moore's book. You'll need a 2' x 2' sheet of plywood. Paint it flat white. I didn't find whether the given offsets are to the outside or the inside of the planking. I'd ask the author. If to the outside, you'll need to deduct plank thickness when taking patterns for mold stations. I wouldn't try to loft/fair the waterlines or buttocks. When fairing the body plan, be aware of the relation between successive ststions. Rather. i'd get out and erect the station molds, then using a planking strip or batten, look for bumps and hollows in the 'setup'. These need to be trimmed or shimmed. Any book on lofting will cover this basic stuff. Chapelle's 'Boatbuilding' is probably easiest to find. sebastian wrote: hi im planning on building a canoe. Specifically, I would like to build the 16 foot 'prospector' from moore's 'canoecraft' book, but the design is in the form of a lofting table. naw, a lofting talbe is something you draw a full size 16 ft diagram of the boat on. what you have in the book is a table of offsets which you use to draw life size diagrams of the moulds. I know there are many books out there on lofting, but i have found them to be more convoluted and complex than i need for a simple little symmetrical canoe. right The full size plans are available for purchase, but I would I like learn how to loft. Can anynoe provide a brief tutorial on how to loft canoe plans or maybe provide links to any known web pages which *clearly* and as simply as possible methodically describe how to loft -ideally canoes and specifically from the tables in canoecraft- or other small simple boats? just plot the points from the table of offsets. try a scaled down model first. one inch instead of one foot will give you a 16 inch model. I put the tables of offsets into a spreadsheet program and played around with the scaling when I was looking at the canoe shape. again, there are websites and other books on stripper construction you can consult. we have a couple other authours besides Moores on stripper construction in the Ottawa public library. good luck. -- ------------------------------------------------------------------------------ William R Watt National Capital FreeNet Ottawa's free community network homepage: www.ncf.ca/~ag384/top.htm warning: non-freenet email must have "notspam" in subject or it's returned |
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