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I am building a 23 foot mahogany runabout to plans drawn by Ken Hankinson
(Tahoe 23). I am installing a small block chevy (reworked 350 cid)..I am
planning to use fuel injection on this boat and am wondering if an
aftermarket automotive injection system is suitable for a marine
application. Can anyone give me some guidance here?

Don Ellard

"DonE" wrote in message ...
Group

I am building a 23 foot mahogany runabout to plans drawn by Ken Hankinson
(Tahoe 23). I am installing a small block chevy (reworked 350 cid)..I am
planning to use fuel injection on this boat and am wondering if an
aftermarket automotive injection system is suitable for a marine
application. Can anyone give me some guidance here?

Don Ellard

While the automotive system will probably work, don't use it. Their
are fuel injection systems made for marine applications. Should you
have a serious problem, and it has anything at all to do with the
automotive fuel injection system, your screwed. Your insurance company
can back out of covering you because of the use of non Coast Guard
approved equipment, and if anyone is hurt, their lawyer is going to
have a field day with you. If you want fuel injection, spend the extra
money on the marine system.

I am building a 23 foot mahogany runabout to plans drawn by Ken Hankinson
(Tahoe 23). I am installing a small block chevy (reworked 350 cid)..I am
planning to use fuel injection on this boat and am wondering if an
aftermarket automotive injection system is suitable for a marine
application. Can anyone give me some guidance here?
Engineer, not Lawyer answer:

There are several working examples of "home built", "aftermarket" and
"Cooperatively designed" fuel injections systems. Two a
http://efi11.sourceforge.net/
and
http://www.bgsoflex.com/megasquirtright.html

There is some cooperative open-source type effort that has many running
engines, and, I believe some marine engines, but you'll have to Google a
bit to find it. I am considering it for my 350 GM in the boat I built in
1978 and is still going strong. Sorry, I can't find the link immediately
here...

Wether you "Marinize" a carburetor or FI you'll have to be careful,
right??

Mainly be careful about being afraid to actually do anything.

--
Regards, Terry King ...In The Woods In Vermont

The one who Dies With The Most Parts LOSES!! What do you need?

I'm trying to visualize what at USCG approve FI might be. For a carborated
engine the alternator is spark proofed and the carb has a flame arrestor on
it. You might be required to wedge shim the carb so the float functions
properly and doesn flood. Oh yah! you need a marine fuel pump if you go with
mechanic..

Ok now let's see, with a FI, were talking about throttle body for the 350.
Pretty standard, no floats, no mechanical fuel pump and the alternator could
just be a marine version.

So what do we have left? Ah! the flame arrestor air cleaner.. Shouldn't be a
big deal to fit one on the throttle body.

I've seen so many dead or dying Bayliners around with rusted out raw water
cooled 350 I/O these parts should be readily available.

Soundn't be a problem..

Steve
s/v Good Intentions

"Steve" wrote in message ...
I'm trying to visualize what at USCG approve FI might be. For a carborated
engine the alternator is spark proofed and the carb has a flame arrestor on
it. You might be required to wedge shim the carb so the float functions
properly and doesn flood. Oh yah! you need a marine fuel pump if you go with
mechanic..

Ok now let's see, with a FI, were talking about throttle body for the 350.
Pretty standard, no floats, no mechanical fuel pump and the alternator could
just be a marine version.

So what do we have left? Ah! the flame arrestor air cleaner.. Shouldn't be a
big deal to fit one on the throttle body.

I've seen so many dead or dying Bayliners around with rusted out raw water
cooled 350 I/O these parts should be readily available.

Soundn't be a problem..

Steve
s/v Good Intentions

If you think the only diferance in a marinized carb is the flame
arrestor, you haven't looked very hard. Granted, the differance in the
cost of manufacturing one vs. the other, is probably nothing, yes you
are being gouged. But, unless your the only one using the boat, keep
it CG approved. If something happens, and someone gets hurt in the
process, some lawyer is going to take you for everything you have now
and ever will have. A good surveyor will spot your "handy work" when
he's called in to investigate what happened. Your just going to make
the lawyers work that much easier for him. It's cheaper in the long
run to keep it all CG approved. And it might just save your life in
the process.

I've owned twin engine Chris Craft, with OEM engines (chev 283) and OEM
carbs.

Rebuilt both and never noticed any difference between them and the carbs
I've seen on those engine in cars. I know the rebuild kits were the same,
including the jets, float level gage, etc.

I don't mean to be argumentative, but I'm still wondering what other
difference there is..

Steve
s/v Good Intentions

The biggest difference is that the fuel will overflow into the engine if the
float valve sticks. Or so I've been told.

Mike
**************

I've owned twin engine Chris Craft, with OEM engines (chev 283) and OEM
carbs.

Rebuilt both and never noticed any difference between them and the carbs
I've seen on those engine in cars. I know the rebuild kits were the same,
including the jets, float level gage, etc.

I don't mean to be argumentative, but I'm still wondering what other
difference there is..

Steve
s/v Good Intentions

The only difference besides the flame arrester that I noticed on a boat I
once had was the float bowl vented and overflowed back to the top of the
mecanical fuel pump.

Paul
"MIDEMETZ" wrote in message
...
The biggest difference is that the fuel will overflow into the engine if
the
float valve sticks. Or so I've been told.

Mike
**************

I've owned twin engine Chris Craft, with OEM engines (chev 283) and OEM
carbs.

Rebuilt both and never noticed any difference between them and the carbs
I've seen on those engine in cars. I know the rebuild kits were the same,
including the jets, float level gage, etc.

I don't mean to be argumentative, but I'm still wondering what other
difference there is..

Steve
s/v Good Intentions

I've 'marinized' a few engines and had many CG inspections. I've never
heard of a "Coast Guard Approved Carburetor". I have read the details of
the flame arrestor specs. etc. The only fuel-overflow protection I've
seen is on some older engines that have a tray below the carburetor at
the manifold-gasket level that has an overboard vent / drain.

If someone can point to more CG-specific regulation I'd appreciate it.

But my next conversion is going to be a VW Diesel anyway...

The only difference besides the flame arrester that I noticed on a boat I
once had was the float bowl vented and overflowed back to the top of the
mecanical fuel pump.

The biggest difference is that the fuel will overflow into the engine if
the
float valve sticks. Or so I've been told.



I don't mean to be argumentative, but I'm still wondering what other
difference there is..



--
Regards, Terry King ...In The Woods In Vermont

The one who Dies With The Most Parts LOSES!! What do you need?

I'd be interested in hearing about your conversion of the VW. I herd some
where that it could only sustain about 25 HP continually.

M ike
*********************

But my next conversion is going to be a VW Diesel anyway...