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#1
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"Steve" wrote in message ...
I'm trying to visualize what at USCG approve FI might be. For a carborated engine the alternator is spark proofed and the carb has a flame arrestor on it. You might be required to wedge shim the carb so the float functions properly and doesn flood. Oh yah! you need a marine fuel pump if you go with mechanic.. Ok now let's see, with a FI, were talking about throttle body for the 350. Pretty standard, no floats, no mechanical fuel pump and the alternator could just be a marine version. So what do we have left? Ah! the flame arrestor air cleaner.. Shouldn't be a big deal to fit one on the throttle body. I've seen so many dead or dying Bayliners around with rusted out raw water cooled 350 I/O these parts should be readily available. Soundn't be a problem.. Steve s/v Good Intentions If you think the only diferance in a marinized carb is the flame arrestor, you haven't looked very hard. Granted, the differance in the cost of manufacturing one vs. the other, is probably nothing, yes you are being gouged. But, unless your the only one using the boat, keep it CG approved. If something happens, and someone gets hurt in the process, some lawyer is going to take you for everything you have now and ever will have. A good surveyor will spot your "handy work" when he's called in to investigate what happened. Your just going to make the lawyers work that much easier for him. It's cheaper in the long run to keep it all CG approved. And it might just save your life in the process. |
#2
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I've owned twin engine Chris Craft, with OEM engines (chev 283) and OEM
carbs. Rebuilt both and never noticed any difference between them and the carbs I've seen on those engine in cars. I know the rebuild kits were the same, including the jets, float level gage, etc. I don't mean to be argumentative, but I'm still wondering what other difference there is.. Steve s/v Good Intentions |
#3
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The biggest difference is that the fuel will overflow into the engine if the
float valve sticks. Or so I've been told. Mike ************** I've owned twin engine Chris Craft, with OEM engines (chev 283) and OEM carbs. Rebuilt both and never noticed any difference between them and the carbs I've seen on those engine in cars. I know the rebuild kits were the same, including the jets, float level gage, etc. I don't mean to be argumentative, but I'm still wondering what other difference there is.. Steve s/v Good Intentions |
#4
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The only difference besides the flame arrester that I noticed on a boat I
once had was the float bowl vented and overflowed back to the top of the mecanical fuel pump. Paul "MIDEMETZ" wrote in message ... The biggest difference is that the fuel will overflow into the engine if the float valve sticks. Or so I've been told. Mike ************** I've owned twin engine Chris Craft, with OEM engines (chev 283) and OEM carbs. Rebuilt both and never noticed any difference between them and the carbs I've seen on those engine in cars. I know the rebuild kits were the same, including the jets, float level gage, etc. I don't mean to be argumentative, but I'm still wondering what other difference there is.. Steve s/v Good Intentions |
#5
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I've 'marinized' a few engines and had many CG inspections. I've never
heard of a "Coast Guard Approved Carburetor". I have read the details of the flame arrestor specs. etc. The only fuel-overflow protection I've seen is on some older engines that have a tray below the carburetor at the manifold-gasket level that has an overboard vent / drain. If someone can point to more CG-specific regulation I'd appreciate it. But my next conversion is going to be a VW Diesel anyway... The only difference besides the flame arrester that I noticed on a boat I once had was the float bowl vented and overflowed back to the top of the mecanical fuel pump. The biggest difference is that the fuel will overflow into the engine if the float valve sticks. Or so I've been told. I don't mean to be argumentative, but I'm still wondering what other difference there is.. -- Regards, Terry King ...In The Woods In Vermont The one who Dies With The Most Parts LOSES!! What do you need? |
#6
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I'd be interested in hearing about your conversion of the VW. I herd some
where that it could only sustain about 25 HP continually. M ike ********************* But my next conversion is going to be a VW Diesel anyway... |
#7
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If we are talking about the original VW that came out in the early '80s, the
25 HP limit is probably true. Been there done that.. That engine is just a converted Rabbit gas engine. I think I remember that it only produced 40HP as a diesel. I blew-up two of them in my '82 Vanigon. Never got more than 20,000 out of either engine. Couldn't handle Calif. Freeway (80mph) speeds for sustained periods (hours). These engines didn't have a tach but I suspect it was turning about 3k at 80 mph. Hole in the block both times. Too many broken pieces to tell which broke first. That VW block as a gas engine was teriffic. I had one in a early Plymouth Horizon. Best little car I could have had for the price. However at sustained high speed, the oil wouldn't run back from the head to the sump fast enough. The valve cover would file with oil and the vacuum hose on the cover would suck the oil into the air cleaner canister down beside the engine. About a quart in an hour of sustained speed. I just moderated my speed and drove the car for another 5 years. Sorry for dragging this thread OT. Steve s/v Good Intentions |
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