I hope you won't think this too off topic. Just pretend I'm talking about a
boat fuel tank and not the one off my antique John Deere.

I'm looking for information, opinions, tips and tricks as related to tank
repair short of replacing and or paying a shop to do the work, i.e.
do-it-yourself repair.

I'm considering JB Weld for the holes and cracks, then using one of the many
(open for favorites) liquid, normally three part, fuel tank repair kits.

I know it is a rule of Neptune that any tank on a boat will leak, not if,
when. So I know you guys have the experience.

Fred

"Glenn Ashmore" wrote in message
news:xxgrb.12405$62.9567@lakeread04...
Brian D wrote:

Glenn,

More info on the fuel tanks? Kracor's are pretty good. I'm planning
on
custom aluminum for my particular application, but there may be several
of
....

You might ask that question on rec.crafts.metalworking. Boat tanks have
their own set of problems but antique tractors have a completely
different set. When a boat's fuel tank starts leaking the best solution
for safety's sake is to rip it out reweld or replace it. You will
probably never find a replacement tank for an antique John Deer and a
poorly doe repair or fitting a new non-original one will seriously hurt
the value.

JB weld might be a temporary fix for small holds but it is not going to
stand up to the vibration on a crack. Better to pull and clean the tank
and send it to a restorer. He will weld or silver solder it and grind
the welds down. A neighbor is restoring a 1941 Indian Sport Scout and
asked me to weld up some holes in the tank. The tank was rusted beyond
anything I would have attempted to fix so I told him to send it off to
Moyer Fuel Tank Renu in Greensburg, PA. They split the tank, blasted it
inside and out, rebuilt the major deterioration and applied a
proprietary 3 coat baked on polymer system. It came back looking like
it had just come from the factory and I don't recall it being all that
expensive. Something like $250.

To keep this boat related: The also restore old outboard tanks if you
really want to fix up that old Seagull or Martin Silver streak. :-)

Fred Williams wrote:

I hope you won't think this too off topic. Just pretend I'm talking about a
boat fuel tank and not the one off my antique John Deere.

I'm looking for information, opinions, tips and tricks as related to tank
repair short of replacing and or paying a shop to do the work, i.e.
do-it-yourself repair.

I'm considering JB Weld for the holes and cracks, then using one of the many
(open for favorites) liquid, normally three part, fuel tank repair kits.

I know it is a rule of Neptune that any tank on a boat will leak, not if,
when. So I know you guys have the experience.

Fred

"Glenn Ashmore" wrote in message
news:xxgrb.12405$62.9567@lakeread04...

Brian D wrote:


Glenn,

More info on the fuel tanks? Kracor's are pretty good. I'm planning

on

custom aluminum for my particular application, but there may be several

of
...



--
Glenn Ashmore

I'm building a 45' cutter in strip/composite. Watch my progress (or lack
there of) at: http://www.rutuonline.com
Shameless Commercial Division: http://www.spade-anchor-us.com

Thanks Glenn! Just what I was looking for. I'll Check out the metalworing
group, I just hope I don't get to like it too much, my life doesn't have
room for another "interesting" news group :-(

Fred

"Glenn Ashmore" wrote in message
news:nWirb.12583$62.2938@lakeread04...
You might ask that question on rec.crafts.metalworking. Boat tanks have
their own set of problems but antique tractors have a completely
different set. When a boat's fuel tank starts leaking the best solution
for safety's sake is to rip it out reweld or replace it. You will
probably never find a replacement tank for an antique John Deer and a
poorly doe repair or fitting a new non-original one will seriously hurt
the value.

JB weld might be a temporary fix for small holds but it is not going to
stand up to the vibration on a crack. Better to pull and clean the tank
and send it to a restorer. He will weld or silver solder it and grind
...

The antique auto people (I owned a Bentley once) use proprietary sealers
made for sealing small leaks -- drain the tank, dump in a quart of sealer,
slosh around for half an hour, let it dry -- which seem to work better than
you might expect. Not, certainly, suitable for a boat, but like radiator
sealants, something that may get another year or three before you have to
bite the bullet.

Try Hemmings for an ad, or a Web search.

--
Jim Woodward
www.mvFintry.com


..
"Fred Williams" wrote in message
news
Thanks Glenn! Just what I was looking for. I'll Check out the
metalworing
group, I just hope I don't get to like it too much, my life doesn't have
room for another "interesting" news group :-(

Fred

"Glenn Ashmore" wrote in message
news:nWirb.12583$62.2938@lakeread04...
You might ask that question on rec.crafts.metalworking. Boat tanks have
their own set of problems but antique tractors have a completely
different set. When a boat's fuel tank starts leaking the best solution
for safety's sake is to rip it out reweld or replace it. You will
probably never find a replacement tank for an antique John Deer and a
poorly doe repair or fitting a new non-original one will seriously hurt
the value.

JB weld might be a temporary fix for small holds but it is not going to
stand up to the vibration on a crack. Better to pull and clean the tank
and send it to a restorer. He will weld or silver solder it and grind
...