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#1
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Titebond II
Brian Whatcott ) writes:
It claims to be the strongest wood glue - and water resistant too, but not for use below the water line. shear strenth 3,750 psi. water resistent but not waterproof. pot life indefinite. clean up with water before it sets. shear strength of epoxy is 15,000n psi and its waterproof. -- ------------------------------------------------------------------------------ William R Watt National Capital FreeNet Ottawa's free community network homepage: www.ncf.ca/~ag384/top.htm warning: non-freenet email must have "notspam" in subject or it's returned |
#2
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Titebond II
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#3
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Titebond II
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#4
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Titebond II
I, too, use it for all sorts of things, but aside from limited water
resistance, it creeps, so should not be used in applications where it is loaded continuously. I find that if you keep a West setup with pumps installed in a shallow bucket and save your margarine containers, you can mix a one stroke batch of epoxy almost as fast as you can use white or yellow glue. You can customize the epoxy with filler, too. Jim Woodward www.mvFintry.com (William R. Watt) wrote in message ... Brian Whatcott ) writes: It claims to be the strongest wood glue - and water resistant too, but not for use below the water line. shear strenth 3,750 psi. water resistent but not waterproof. pot life indefinite. clean up with water before it sets. shear strength of epoxy is 15,000n psi and its waterproof. |
#5
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Titebond II
I use Tightbond II for interior cabinetry but prefer polyurethanes if
the wood will be finished bright. Squeeze out of Tightbond II interferes with the color when you stain or varnish unless you really sand it down well. Polyurethanes scrape off clean. In no case do I use Tightbond outside the boat. Everything else is epoxy. I use the West single lever pump and solicit cups from all the neighbors. Large curd cottage cheese for fairing, soft cream cheese for bonding and Jello pudding for detail. :-) Jim Woodward wrote: I, too, use it for all sorts of things, but aside from limited water resistance, it creeps, so should not be used in applications where it is loaded continuously. I find that if you keep a West setup with pumps installed in a shallow bucket and save your margarine containers, you can mix a one stroke batch of epoxy almost as fast as you can use white or yellow glue. You can customize the epoxy with filler, too. Jim Woodward www.mvFintry.com (William R. Watt) wrote in message ... Brian Whatcott ) writes: It claims to be the strongest wood glue - and water resistant too, but not for use below the water line. shear strenth 3,750 psi. water resistent but not waterproof. pot life indefinite. clean up with water before it sets. shear strength of epoxy is 15,000n psi and its waterproof. -- Glenn Ashmore I'm building a 45' cutter in strip/composite. Watch my progress (or lack there of) at: http://www.rutuonline.com Shameless Commercial Division: http://www.spade-anchor-us.com |
#6
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Titebond II
Glenn, you missed the Taco Bell Pecante cups when just a dab will do :-)
Tite Bond II is all I use for wood working around the house. I have projects like bird houses that have survived outdoors, but I would never use it on my boat. That is what Epoxy is for, IMHO. "Glenn Ashmore" wrote in message news:FDTib.74972$sp2.58413@lakeread04... I use Tightbond II for interior cabinetry but prefer polyurethanes if the wood will be finished bright. Squeeze out of Tightbond II interferes with the color when you stain or varnish unless you really sand it down well. Polyurethanes scrape off clean. In no case do I use Tightbond outside the boat. Everything else is epoxy. I use the West single lever pump and solicit cups from all the neighbors. Large curd cottage cheese for fairing, soft cream cheese for bonding and Jello pudding for detail. :-) .... |
#7
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Titebond II
On Tue, 14 Oct 2003 15:50:05 GMT, "Fred Williams"
wrote: Tite Bond II is all I use for wood working around the house. I have projects like bird houses that have survived outdoors, but I would never use it on my boat. That is what Epoxy is for, IMHO. If the interior job involves continuous load, original Titebond is less prone to creep than Titebond II. Rodney Myrvaagnes Opionated old geezer Faith-based economics: It's deja voodoo all over again |
#8
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Titebond II
I would like to add my two cents.
Last spring I used Luan to make hatch doors for my boat. Biscuits were used and the panel boards were washed with acetone and glued with Titebond ll and pipe clamps. The doors were coated with Behr Tung oil finish fortified with UVI. Several coat were applied inside my garage. They were my pride and joy. Then in mid August the panels were showing signs of separations. Part lines began to be very visible. I then replaced the new hatch doors with the old one made with Teak plywood.. I do not know what happened. Maybe the Luan is not compatible with Titebond ll. Now that I learned my lesson I'll go back to using epoxy on my boat. "Rodney Myrvaagnes" wrote in message news On Tue, 14 Oct 2003 15:50:05 GMT, "Fred Williams" wrote: Tite Bond II is all I use for wood working around the house. I have projects like bird houses that have survived outdoors, but I would never use it on my boat. That is what Epoxy is for, IMHO. If the interior job involves continuous load, original Titebond is less prone to creep than Titebond II. Rodney Myrvaagnes Opionated old geezer Faith-based economics: It's deja voodoo all over again |
#9
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Titebond II
On Wed, 15 Oct 2003 01:24:54 GMT, "Denis Marier"
wrote: I would like to add my two cents. Last spring I used Luan to make hatch doors for my boat. Biscuits were used and the panel boards were washed with acetone and glued with Titebond ll and pipe clamps. The doors were coated with Behr Tung oil finish fortified with UVI. Several coat were applied inside my garage. They were my pride and joy. Then in mid August the panels were showing signs of separations. Part lines began to be very visible. I then replaced the new hatch doors with the old one made with Teak plywood.. I do not know what happened. Maybe the Luan is not compatible with Titebond ll. Now that I learned my lesson I'll go back to using epoxy on my boat. While I agree with your conclusion, I'm interested in the details of your experience with Titebond II. Were your hatches cross-grain glued at the ends? This will guarantee either failed joints or wood grain splits. If it was a straight adhesive failure, that would be interesting. By the way, you could take the hatches, rip out the adhesive joints on a table saw, and re-glue them with epoxy. - Rick Tyler -- "Ignorant voracity -- a wingless vulture -- can soar only into the depths of ignominy." Patrick O'Brian |
#10
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Titebond II
Glenn Ashmore ) writes:
Everything else is epoxy. I use the West single lever pump and solicit cups from all the neighbors. Large curd cottage cheese for fairing, soft cream cheese for bonding and Jello pudding for detail. :-) we have municipal recyling in Ottawa. we put our plastic containers in platic bins and put them out for pickup on garbage day. so its a simple matter of walking around the neigbourhood on garbage day looking in people's plastic bins for plastic containers. I don't use epoxy but do ocassionaly find need for discarded plastic containers. Titebond is "aliphatic" glue, yellow carpenter's glue, not water resistent. I don't know what Titebond II is but one of my home handyman books says there is a water resistent variety of aliphatic glue available. Maybe that's what Titebond II is. The shear strength I posted earlier was for Titebond II from the Lee Valley Tools glue guide. It says Titebond II is only good for 3 freeze thaw cycles so I wouldn't use it on boats up here in Canada. -- ------------------------------------------------------------------------------ William R Watt National Capital FreeNet Ottawa's free community network homepage: www.ncf.ca/~ag384/top.htm warning: non-freenet email must have "notspam" in subject or it's returned |