Yesterday, I was applying two by four doublers to one or two rafters
and perlins in the roofspace of the homestread, cracked or broken
after half a century's service. I left one doubler stud overnight,
with some Titebond carpenter's glue applied to one face.

This morning, I noticed I had left a fender washer on the glue face,
and the glue had set 15 hours later.
I tapped at the steel washer's edge to no avail, and finally hammered
it off. It came away with a surface layer of softwood.

I was more than impressed, not expecting such good metal/wood
bonding performance from a one part white resin glue.
It claims to be the strongest wood glue - and water resistant too,
but not for use below the water line.

Brian Whatcott Altus OK

I use it for bungs on the teak deck. I do notice that if some is left around
the new bung, it'll turn opaque when it rains for a couple of days, but
turns clear again when it dries. Good visible for me to scrape it off after
doing the bung work.

"Brian Whatcott" wrote in message
...
Yesterday, I was applying two by four doublers to one or two rafters
and perlins in the roofspace of the homestread, cracked or broken
after half a century's service. I left one doubler stud overnight,
with some Titebond carpenter's glue applied to one face.

This morning, I noticed I had left a fender washer on the glue face,
and the glue had set 15 hours later.
I tapped at the steel washer's edge to no avail, and finally hammered
it off. It came away with a surface layer of softwood.

I was more than impressed, not expecting such good metal/wood
bonding performance from a one part white resin glue.
It claims to be the strongest wood glue - and water resistant too,
but not for use below the water line.

Brian Whatcott Altus OK

I've used it for various applications and with excess pieces (like
trimmed edges and such), even ones that get left out in the weather,
I've never had one break at the joint... the wood breaks before the
glue joint.

When I was building guitars and such, I figured out why there are cases
where it shouldn't be used... because you may want to undo a glue joint.

Ed

--
The spam finally got to me.
To email me, change "spam" to "speak"

Brian Whatcott ) writes:

It claims to be the strongest wood glue - and water resistant too,
but not for use below the water line.

shear strenth 3,750 psi. water resistent but not waterproof. pot life
indefinite. clean up with water before it sets.

shear strength of epoxy is 15,000n psi and its waterproof.
--
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(William R. Watt) wrote in message ...
Brian Whatcott ) writes:

It claims to be the strongest wood glue - and water resistant too,
but not for use below the water line.

shear strenth 3,750 psi. water resistent but not waterproof. pot life
indefinite. clean up with water before it sets.

And if it gets wet, it turns to runny snot. The stuff is just not for
boats and if you call the manufacturer they will tip toe around the
subject... Knowing you should not use it, but hoping you will buy it
anyway.
Scotty

shear strength of epoxy is 15,000n psi and its waterproof.

I, too, use it for all sorts of things, but aside from limited water
resistance, it creeps, so should not be used in applications where it
is loaded continuously.

I find that if you keep a West setup with pumps installed in a shallow
bucket and save your margarine containers, you can mix a one stroke
batch of epoxy almost as fast as you can use white or yellow glue.
You can customize the epoxy with filler, too.

Jim Woodward
www.mvFintry.com

(William R. Watt) wrote in message ...
Brian Whatcott ) writes:

It claims to be the strongest wood glue - and water resistant too,
but not for use below the water line.

shear strenth 3,750 psi. water resistent but not waterproof. pot life
indefinite. clean up with water before it sets.

shear strength of epoxy is 15,000n psi and its waterproof.

I use Tightbond II for interior cabinetry but prefer polyurethanes if
the wood will be finished bright. Squeeze out of Tightbond II
interferes with the color when you stain or varnish unless you really
sand it down well. Polyurethanes scrape off clean. In no case do I use
Tightbond outside the boat.

Everything else is epoxy. I use the West single lever pump and solicit
cups from all the neighbors. Large curd cottage cheese for fairing,
soft cream cheese for bonding and Jello pudding for detail. :-)

Jim Woodward wrote:
I, too, use it for all sorts of things, but aside from limited water
resistance, it creeps, so should not be used in applications where it
is loaded continuously.

I find that if you keep a West setup with pumps installed in a shallow
bucket and save your margarine containers, you can mix a one stroke
batch of epoxy almost as fast as you can use white or yellow glue.
You can customize the epoxy with filler, too.

Jim Woodward
www.mvFintry.com

(William R. Watt) wrote in message ...

Brian Whatcott ) writes:


It claims to be the strongest wood glue - and water resistant too,
but not for use below the water line.

shear strenth 3,750 psi. water resistent but not waterproof. pot life
indefinite. clean up with water before it sets.

shear strength of epoxy is 15,000n psi and its waterproof.

--
Glenn Ashmore

I'm building a 45' cutter in strip/composite. Watch my progress (or lack
there of) at: http://www.rutuonline.com
Shameless Commercial Division: http://www.spade-anchor-us.com

Glenn, you missed the Taco Bell Pecante cups when just a dab will do :-)

Tite Bond II is all I use for wood working around the house. I have
projects like bird houses that have survived outdoors, but I would never use
it on my boat. That is what Epoxy is for, IMHO.

"Glenn Ashmore" wrote in message
news:FDTib.74972$sp2.58413@lakeread04...
I use Tightbond II for interior cabinetry but prefer polyurethanes if
the wood will be finished bright. Squeeze out of Tightbond II
interferes with the color when you stain or varnish unless you really
sand it down well. Polyurethanes scrape off clean. In no case do I use
Tightbond outside the boat.

Everything else is epoxy. I use the West single lever pump and solicit
cups from all the neighbors. Large curd cottage cheese for fairing,
soft cream cheese for bonding and Jello pudding for detail. :-)
....

Glenn Ashmore ) writes:

Everything else is epoxy. I use the West single lever pump and solicit
cups from all the neighbors. Large curd cottage cheese for fairing,
soft cream cheese for bonding and Jello pudding for detail. :-)

we have municipal recyling in Ottawa. we put our plastic containers in
platic bins and put them out for pickup on garbage day. so its a simple
matter of walking around the neigbourhood on garbage day looking in
people's plastic bins for plastic containers. I don't use epoxy but do
ocassionaly find need for discarded plastic containers.

Titebond is "aliphatic" glue, yellow carpenter's glue, not water
resistent. I don't know what Titebond II is but one of my home handyman
books says there is a water resistent variety of aliphatic glue available.
Maybe that's what Titebond II is.

The shear strength I posted earlier was for Titebond II from the Lee Valley
Tools glue guide. It says Titebond II is only good for 3 freeze thaw
cycles so I wouldn't use it on boats up here in Canada.

--
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On Tue, 14 Oct 2003 15:50:05 GMT, "Fred Williams"
wrote:


Tite Bond II is all I use for wood working around the house. I have
projects like bird houses that have survived outdoors, but I would never use
it on my boat. That is what Epoxy is for, IMHO.

If the interior job involves continuous load, original Titebond is
less prone to creep than Titebond II.


Rodney Myrvaagnes Opionated old geezer

Faith-based economics: It's deja voodoo all over again