Recently I have used Titebond ll in making 3" square bed posts using clamps
with eastern white pine.
These posts are made for indoor. They at this time fine. The only thing is
that you can see a distinctive light gray line where the lamination has been
done. Heavy clamping can induce glued joint starvation.?
"Ron Thornton" wrote in message
...
In the vague recesses of my mind I seem to recall Norm, of This Old
House, warning about over clamping Titebond II.

Ron

The thinness Piranha blade may have to wide of knerf. Now that the boat is
in the back yard. I may try to use a good scriber to separate the panels
and use epoxy. The biscuits will have to be cut off with a Japanese hand
saw.
"Rick Tyler" wrote in message
news
On Wed, 15 Oct 2003 01:24:54 GMT, "Denis Marier"
wrote:

I would like to add my two cents.
Last spring I used Luan to make hatch doors for my boat.
Biscuits were used and the panel boards were washed with acetone and
glued
with Titebond ll and pipe clamps.
The doors were coated with Behr Tung oil finish fortified with UVI.
Several
coat were applied inside my garage.
They were my pride and joy. Then in mid August the panels were showing
signs of separations. Part lines began to be very visible. I then
replaced
the new hatch doors with the old one made with Teak plywood..
I do not know what happened. Maybe the Luan is not compatible with
Titebond
ll.
Now that I learned my lesson I'll go back to using epoxy on my boat.

While I agree with your conclusion, I'm interested in the details of
your experience with Titebond II. Were your hatches cross-grain glued
at the ends? This will guarantee either failed joints or wood grain
splits. If it was a straight adhesive failure, that would be
interesting.

By the way, you could take the hatches, rip out the adhesive joints on
a table saw, and re-glue them with epoxy.

- Rick Tyler
--
"Ignorant voracity -- a wingless vulture -- can soar only into the
depths of ignominy." Patrick O'Brian