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Old August 10th 10, 01:10 AM posted to rec.boats.building
mmc mmc is offline
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Default the pancake skiff - episode 1


"Steve P." wrote in message
...
What I like the idea of is covering the hull inside-bottom mostly with
a
floor that is raised a couple inches above the water level of a
typical
load. Then you can install drains/plugs in the sides of the boat
right
at the floor level, and in a bad weather situation (with the plugs
removed) the boat becomes self-bailing.


Sort of like a Water-Letter-Outer?

If it was self bailing why would you have the plugs in the first
place?

For it to be self bailing, won't it require a pretty good flow of water
going past the drain? Probably more flow than can be realized rowing?



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Old August 10th 10, 01:12 AM posted to rec.boats.building
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Default the pancake skiff - episode 1

On 8/9/2010 9:00 AM, Steve P. wrote:
What I like the idea of is covering the hull inside-bottom mostly with
a
floor that is raised a couple inches above the water level of a
typical
load. Then you can install drains/plugs in the sides of the boat
right
at the floor level, and in a bad weather situation (with the plugs
removed) the boat becomes self-bailing.


Sort of like a Water-Letter-Outer?

If it was self bailing why would you have the plugs in the first
place?


Because it may not be self-bailing with a heavy load.

Suppose you have a design for a flat-bottom rowboat, with a raised
floor. With one person on board, it sinks three inches into the water.
With a full load (three people) it sinks seven inches. And suppose you
put the floor five inches above the bottom of the hull, and put two
drain holes (with plugs) in the sides, right above where the floor meets
the sides.

Now this would mean that when lightly loaded, the floor height is higher
than the water level.... so if you took out the drain plugs, any water
that got into the boat would just run out the drain holes, since the
floor was two inches above the water level.

With the full load, you'd want the drain plugs in, since the water level
would be higher than the floor level.

If you set the floor level high enough that it was always above water
level, that would be (I'd think) a very tippy small boat. I know that
BIG boats do it that way, but aside from sit-on-top kayaks I'm not sure
many small ones do.

----------

I don't know if this is ever done with small boats or not, it was just
an idea. I will likely be boating alone most of the time, and I wanted a
shallow-draft boat, with a flat (raised) deck.... When I was sketching
carious designs out I noticed that with a light load, the raised floor
usually ended up above the waterline anyway.
~







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Old August 10th 10, 01:20 AM posted to rec.boats.building
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Default the pancake skiff - episode 1

On 8/9/2010 8:54 AM, Steve P. wrote:
Looking at your drawing my guess is tha the flat bottom will create a
lot of bow steer and the transom will create a lot of drag. Curve the
bottom so that the stem is above the WL and the transom is right at
the DWL and I think you have a winner.


Two points:

1--that Freeship model still posted is not what I am considering now, I
haven't done a freeship model of the "latest design" pram yet.

2--that model also doesn't show the floor, or seating arrangement. I
need to put up a new diagram, it is easier to show than explain. The
seating and floor arrangement I want has not changed from the first
design...

~
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