I am repairing a fiberglass dinghy which has wooden gunwales. The
gunwale wood is rotten and cracked. The inwale and outwale are about
1/2" by 1 1/4" in section, about 11 - 12 feet in length. Where do I
get a replacement hardwood in this size and do I need to steam bend,
or can I just stress bend it using existing bolt holes? What material
is the best for the least?

wrote:

I am repairing a fiberglass dinghy which has wooden gunwales. The
gunwale wood is rotten and cracked. The inwale and outwale are
about
1/2" by 1 1/4" in section, about 11 - 12 feet in length. Where do I
get a replacement hardwood in this size and do I need to steam bend,
or can I just stress bend it using existing bolt holes? What
material
is the best for the least?

Hondouras Mahogany would be my choice.

You fabricate the pieces needed using common wood working tools.
(Tablesaw, planer, router, clamps, etc).

Depending on bend required, you may have to laminate strips to get
desired shape.

Have fun.

Lew

wrote:
I am repairing a fiberglass dinghy which has wooden gunwales. The
gunwale wood is rotten and cracked. The inwale and outwale are about
1/2" by 1 1/4" in section, about 11 - 12 feet in length. Where do I
get a replacement hardwood in this size and do I need to steam bend,
or can I just stress bend it using existing bolt holes? What material
is the best for the least?

I don't know if you are going to have to steam it but Douglass Fir if
you can find a piece or two clear enough and straight grain so there
isn't a lot of runout on the grain. If you don't want to steam bend and
it won't go around otherwise, you could make it from 1/4 inch strips, 4
all together, two in, two out... But Doug fir (not pine, hemlock, etc,
but Doug fir) if you can get it is pretty strong and holds fasteners
well, does well in the wet environment...

wrote:
I am repairing a fiberglass dinghy which has wooden gunwales. The
gunwale wood is rotten and cracked. The inwale and outwale are about
1/2" by 1 1/4" in section, about 11 - 12 feet in length. Where do I
get a replacement hardwood in this size and do I need to steam bend,
or can I just stress bend it using existing bolt holes? What material
is the best for the least?

Spruce or Mahogany would be my choice, but I have used Douglas Fir and
it turned out well. You have to pick the wood carefully, straight
grain. No knots.

I'd cut it into strips and glue to get the curve. I'd use West Epoxy.
Get lots of clamps. It's easy and strong.

Where to get the wood is a tough one. Home Depot and Lowe's does not
carry anything I'd use.

Real lumber yards are still out there.

Not much I can add to the previous advice except to say forget the
steaming.
It’s not worth the hassle of setting up a steam box for a small one
off job, especially when it’s easier to laminate.
You can stress bend ½ inch around the gentle curves and laminate ¼
inch on the tighter bends.
It’s always worth trying to source the lumber as close to home as
possible, just in case you need to go back for more....

Mike

http://www.diy-wood-boat.com

On Jul 10, 12:46*am, "
wrote:
I am repairing a fiberglass dinghy which has wooden gunwales. *The
gunwale wood is rotten and cracked. *The inwale and outwale are about
1/2" by 1 1/4" in section, about 11 - 12 feet in length. *Where do I
get a replacement hardwood in this size and do I need to steam bend,
or can I just stress bend it using existing bolt holes? *What material
is the best for the least?

wrote:
I am repairing a fiberglass dinghy which has wooden gunwales. The
gunwale wood is rotten and cracked. The inwale and outwale are about
1/2" by 1 1/4" in section, about 11 - 12 feet in length. Where do I
get a replacement hardwood in this size and do I need to steam bend,
or can I just stress bend it using existing bolt holes? What material
is the best for the least?
Sirius,
You do not give any specifics about the minimum bend radius.

Without knowing or seeing this, I still would suggest that you start
looking for white oak. You will have to find a real sawyer to get the
piece you need, and without any idea where you are, no reader can offer
a suggestion.

As to, if you will have to steam bend, wet bend or just spring it into
place, nobody can give you a good answer without knowing a whole lot
more than what you have posted so far.

As one reader suggested, these could be laminated to the gunwale shape,
but do not even consider this effort unless you have access to at least
2 dozen C-clamps. This is also a tough road unless you have access to a
thickness planer to prepare the laminate (and two good friends and lots
of beer).

Just my opinions as a third generation boat and spar builder.

Matt Colie

matt_colie wrote:
wrote:
I am repairing a fiberglass dinghy which has wooden gunwales. The
gunwale wood is rotten and cracked. The inwale and outwale are about
1/2" by 1 1/4" in section, about 11 - 12 feet in length. Where do I
get a replacement hardwood in this size and do I need to steam bend,
or can I just stress bend it using existing bolt holes? What material
is the best for the least?
Sirius,
You do not give any specifics about the minimum bend radius.

Without knowing or seeing this, I still would suggest that you start
looking for white oak. You will have to find a real sawyer to get the
piece you need, and without any idea where you are, no reader can offer
a suggestion.

As to, if you will have to steam bend, wet bend or just spring it into
place, nobody can give you a good answer without knowing a whole lot
more than what you have posted so far.

As one reader suggested, these could be laminated to the gunwale shape,
but do not even consider this effort unless you have access to at least
2 dozen C-clamps. This is also a tough road unless you have access to a
thickness planer to prepare the laminate (and two good friends and lots
of beer).

Just my opinions as a third generation boat and spar builder.

Matt Colie

Doesn't white oak turn black when exposed to water? Or is that red?

Pretty easy to coble a steambox. I just unscrew the downspout off my
garage and stuff a rag in the end. pop the wood in and prop it up over
the electric kettle. Way easier than making up a laminated gunwale and
faster too.

On Fri, 10 Jul 2009 00:41:31 -0700 (PDT), timmynocky
wrote:

Not much I can add to the previous advice except to say forget the
steaming.
It=92s not worth the hassle of setting up a steam box for a small one
off job, especially when it=92s easier to laminate.
You can stress bend =BD inch around the gentle curves and laminate =BC
inch on the tighter bends.
It=92s always worth trying to source the lumber as close to home as
possible, just in case you need to go back for more....

Mike

http://www.diy-wood-boat.com

On Jul 10, 12:46=A0am, "
wrote:
I am repairing a fiberglass dinghy which has wooden gunwales. =A0The
gunwale wood is rotten and cracked. =A0The inwale and outwale are about
1/2" by 1 1/4" in section, about 11 - 12 feet in length. =A0Where do I
get a replacement hardwood in this size and do I need to steam bend,
or can I just stress bend it using existing bolt holes? =A0What material
is the best for the least?

Drew Dalgleish wrote:
Pretty easy to coble a steambox. I just unscrew the downspout off my
garage and stuff a rag in the end. pop the wood in and prop it up over
the electric kettle. Way easier than making up a laminated gunwale and
faster too.

On Fri, 10 Jul 2009 00:41:31 -0700 (PDT), timmynocky
wrote:

Not much I can add to the previous advice except to say forget the
steaming.
It=92s not worth the hassle of setting up a steam box for a small one
off job, especially when it=92s easier to laminate.
You can stress bend =BD inch around the gentle curves and laminate =BC
inch on the tighter bends.
It=92s always worth trying to source the lumber as close to home as
possible, just in case you need to go back for more....

Mike

http://www.diy-wood-boat.com

On Jul 10, 12:46=A0am, "
wrote:
I am repairing a fiberglass dinghy which has wooden gunwales. =A0The
gunwale wood is rotten and cracked. =A0The inwale and outwale are about
1/2" by 1 1/4" in section, about 11 - 12 feet in length. =A0Where do I
get a replacement hardwood in this size and do I need to steam bend,
or can I just stress bend it using existing bolt holes? =A0What material
is the best for the least?


I made a box because I had the lumber lying around and I use a turkey
fryer. I have an old radiator hose stuck in a piece of plywood which I
secure to the top of the pot of water with an innertube wrapped around a
few times and tied off.. Stick the other end of the hose in the steambox
and make sure you keep the water level up in the pot...

In article ,
says...

Drew Dalgleish wrote:
Pretty easy to coble a steambox. I just unscrew the downspout off my
garage and stuff a rag in the end. pop the wood in and prop it up over
the electric kettle. Way easier than making up a laminated gunwale and
faster too.

On Fri, 10 Jul 2009 00:41:31 -0700 (PDT), timmynocky
wrote:

Not much I can add to the previous advice except to say forget the
steaming.
It=92s not worth the hassle of setting up a steam box for a small one
off job, especially when it=92s easier to laminate.
You can stress bend =BD inch around the gentle curves and laminate =BC
inch on the tighter bends.
It=92s always worth trying to source the lumber as close to home as
possible, just in case you need to go back for more....

Mike

http://www.diy-wood-boat.com

On Jul 10, 12:46=A0am, "
wrote:
I am repairing a fiberglass dinghy which has wooden gunwales. =A0The
gunwale wood is rotten and cracked. =A0The inwale and outwale are about
1/2" by 1 1/4" in section, about 11 - 12 feet in length. =A0Where do I
get a replacement hardwood in this size and do I need to steam bend,
or can I just stress bend it using existing bolt holes? =A0What material
is the best for the least?


I made a box because I had the lumber lying around and I use a turkey
fryer. I have an old radiator hose stuck in a piece of plywood which I
secure to the top of the pot of water with an innertube wrapped around a
few times and tied off.. Stick the other end of the hose in the steambox
and make sure you keep the water level up in the pot...

Yup, I do the same thing exactly, Frier, radiator hose, box...

As to his other question "what kind of wood". I suggest Douglass Fir. Go
to the yard and look at the wider boards for straight grain and cut your
pieces out of that. Fir can be bent over time too. I do 2x6's by
clamping them on and bending them a bit more every day till they fit...
Doug fir is cheap, and it bends nice. You just have to find the straight
grain pieces with no knots in the area you are going to cut.