Home |
Search |
Today's Posts |
#1
|
|||
|
|||
Bondo faring
I have a 1988 custom built aluminum hull sloop that I had sand blasted below the water line to remove years of antifouling paint buildup, and to start fresh with new and also see what condition the hull would be in and if it would warrant any metal work. For the most part, faring compound still remains and I can see the dings and dents that it has received over time. I would like to use Bondo for the deep fills that I probably won't be able to push out(1/4 inch alu thickness) and then use a good epoxy faring compound for the top. Would this approach be acceptable prior to finish coating or would there be a better way.
John |
#2
posted to rec.boats.building
|
|||
|
|||
Bondo faring
On Sun, 15 Mar 2009 23:39:46 +0000, EASI54
wrote: I have a 1988 custom built aluminum hull sloop that I had sand blasted below the water line to remove years of antifouling paint buildup, and to start fresh with new and also see what condition the hull would be in and if it would warrant any metal work. For the most part, faring compound still remains and I can see the dings and dents that it has received over time. I would like to use Bondo for the deep fills that I probably won't be able to push out(1/4 inch alu thickness) and then use a good epoxy faring compound for the top. Would this approach be acceptable prior to finish coating or would there be a better way. Bondo has a poor track record for long term adhesion in a marine environment, better to use an epoxy based fairing compound for everything. |
#3
posted to rec.boats.building
|
|||
|
|||
Bondo faring
Bondo is hygroscopic (absorbs water and swells), and also doesn't adhere
very well below the water line. Instead, use a good epoxy like West Systems with one of their fairing fillers. Tom Dacon "EASI54" wrote in message ... I have a 1988 custom built aluminum hull sloop that I had sand blasted below the water line to remove years of antifouling paint buildup, and to start fresh with new and also see what condition the hull would be in and if it would warrant any metal work. For the most part, faring compound still remains and I can see the dings and dents that it has received over time. I would like to use Bondo for the deep fills that I probably won't be able to push out(1/4 inch alu thickness) and then use a good epoxy faring compound for the top. Would this approach be acceptable prior to finish coating or would there be a better way. John -- EASI54 |
#4
posted to rec.boats.building
|
|||
|
|||
Bondo faring
NEVER, ever use automotive fillers. They are hygroscopic and will fail with
certainty. Use epoxy and micro balloons for filler. Mix to the consistancy that will not sag. Do not over fill. Plan to fill more than once. Use Stanley composition files when the mix is rubbery to get close. Fill again and finish when cured with orbital sander. Be careful. When cured, the filler is harder than the aluminum. Don't forget to use an etching primer for aluminum. Steve "EASI54" wrote in message ... I have a 1988 custom built aluminum hull sloop that I had sand blasted below the water line to remove years of antifouling paint buildup, and to start fresh with new and also see what condition the hull would be in and if it would warrant any metal work. For the most part, faring compound still remains and I can see the dings and dents that it has received over time. I would like to use Bondo for the deep fills that I probably won't be able to push out(1/4 inch alu thickness) and then use a good epoxy faring compound for the top. Would this approach be acceptable prior to finish coating or would there be a better way. John -- EASI54 |
#5
|
|||
|
|||
Quote:
Thanks again. John |
#6
posted to rec.boats.building
|
|||
|
|||
Bondo faring
On Mar 16, 3:45 pm, "Steve Lusardi" wrote:
NEVER, ever use automotive fillers. They are hygroscopic and will fail with certainty. Use epoxy and micro balloons for filler. Mix to the consistancy that will not sag. Do not over fill. Plan to fill more than once. Use Stanley composition files when the mix is rubbery to get close. Fill again and finish when cured with orbital sander. Be careful. When cured, the filler is harder than the aluminum. Don't forget to use an etching primer for aluminum. Steve "EASI54" wrote in message ... I have a 1988 custom built aluminum hull sloop that I had sand blasted below the water line to remove years of antifouling paint buildup, and to start fresh with new and also see what condition the hull would be in and if it would warrant any metal work. For the most part, faring compound still remains and I can see the dings and dents that it has received over time. I would like to use Bondo for the deep fills that I probably won't be able to push out(1/4 inch alu thickness) and then use a good epoxy faring compound for the top. Would this approach be acceptable prior to finish coating or would there be a better way. John -- EASI54 Good epoxy is a joy to use compared to Bondo although it is more expensive. |
#7
posted to rec.boats.building
|
|||
|
|||
Bondo faring
I do not have a special source for epoxy or micro balloons, but they are
standard commodities with dealers that sell fiberglass and the like. There are different sizes of microballoons as well. Ask the seller for their recommendation for your application and you won't go wrong. Remember to sand the aluminum immediately before applying the filler. Fill as soon as possible after sanding. Steve "EASI54" wrote in message ... Steve Lusardi;702834 Wrote: NEVER, ever use automotive fillers. They are hygroscopic and will fail with certainty. Use epoxy and micro balloons for filler. Mix to the consistancy that will not sag. Do not over fill. Plan to fill more than once. Use Stanley composition files when the mix is rubbery to get close. Fill again and finish when cured with orbital sander. Be careful. When cured, the filler is harder than the aluminum. Don't forget to use an etching primer for aluminum. Steve "EASI54" wrote in message ...- I have a 1988 custom built aluminum hull sloop that I had sand blasted below the water line to remove years of antifouling paint buildup, and to start fresh with new and also see what condition the hull would be in and if it would warrant any metal work. For the most part, faring compound still remains and I can see the dings and dents that it has received over time. I would like to use Bondo for the deep fills that I probably won't be able to push out(1/4 inch alu thickness) and then use a good epoxy faring compound for the top. Would this approach be acceptable prior to finish coating or would there be a better way. John -- EASI54 - Thanks Steve for your input regarding hydroscopic properties in Bondo. I was thinkingof an economical solution to sanwich in between the layers of epoxy but it isn't worth taking the chance. West Marine is an option but before I go that way maybe Progressive Epoxy polymers might have an answer that can save me bucks. Do you have any source recomendations? Thanks again. John -- EASI54 |
#8
posted to rec.boats.building
|
|||
|
|||
Bondo faring
Steve Lusardi wrote:
I do not have a special source for epoxy or micro balloons, but they are standard commodities with dealers that sell fiberglass and the like. There are different sizes of microballoons as well. Ask the seller for their recommendation for your application and you won't go wrong. Remember to sand the aluminum immediately before applying the filler. Fill as soon as possible after sanding. Steve -------- we sell microspheres in different sizes (for about $5 a quart) go to www.epoxyproducts.com/2_fillers.html - paul -------------------- "EASI54" wrote in message ... Steve Lusardi;702834 Wrote: NEVER, ever use automotive fillers. They are hygroscopic and will fail with certainty. Use epoxy and micro balloons for filler. Mix to the consistancy that will not sag. Do not over fill. Plan to fill more than once. Use Stanley composition files when the mix is rubbery to get close. Fill again and finish when cured with orbital sander. Be careful. When cured, the filler is harder than the aluminum. Don't forget to use an etching primer for aluminum. Steve "EASI54" wrote in message ...- I have a 1988 custom built aluminum hull sloop that I had sand blasted below the water line to remove years of antifouling paint buildup, and to start fresh with new and also see what condition the hull would be in and if it would warrant any metal work. For the most part, faring compound still remains and I can see the dings and dents that it has received over time. I would like to use Bondo for the deep fills that I probably won't be able to push out(1/4 inch alu thickness) and then use a good epoxy faring compound for the top. Would this approach be acceptable prior to finish coating or would there be a better way. John -- EASI54 - Thanks Steve for your input regarding hydroscopic properties in Bondo. I was thinkingof an economical solution to sanwich in between the layers of epoxy but it isn't worth taking the chance. West Marine is an option but before I go that way maybe Progressive Epoxy polymers might have an answer that can save me bucks. Do you have any source recomendations? Thanks again. John -- EASI54 |
Reply |
Thread Tools | Search this Thread |
Display Modes | |
|
|
Similar Threads | ||||
Thread | Forum | |||
Obama Faring Poorly Among Racists | General | |||
Stitch and Glue Resin--Bondo ok? | Boat Building | |||
Faring Polyester Cloth | Boat Building | |||
bondo repair question | General |