The part that I recently ordered and received based on the serial number of
my engine was a Mercury Quicksilver "84-826802A12" but when I opened the box
the new blue and green output wires to the trim/tilt pump are at least 14"
too short. Also, my "hot" red wire uses a "bullet" style connector not a
ring connector as shown in photo #1 below.

My engine is a: 1996 Mercury 60HP "Bigfoot" SN: OG330757

I hope the photos I uploaded here will help someone help me identify the
correct part number for the relay wiring harness:

www.musclecarsounds.com/boats/relay1.jpg (new, incorrect harness)
www.musclecarsounds.com/boats/relay2.jpg (old as installed)
www.musclecarsounds.com/boats/relay3.jpg (old as installed)
www.musclecarsounds.com/boats/relay4.jpg (old as installed)

Thanks.

Chuck

On Sat, 08 Nov 2008 15:24:15 GMT, "Chuck" wrote:

The part that I recently ordered and received based on the serial number of
my engine was a Mercury Quicksilver "84-826802A12" but when I opened the box
the new blue and green output wires to the trim/tilt pump are at least 14"
too short.

Maybe you can send someone the old harness, and they can compare with
whatever they have.

Casady

Why are you buying a wiring harness?

"Chuck" wrote in message
news:zaiRk.370458$TT4.345549@attbi_s22...
The part that I recently ordered and received based on the serial number
of my engine was a Mercury Quicksilver "84-826802A12" but when I opened
the box the new blue and green output wires to the trim/tilt pump are at
least 14" too short. Also, my "hot" red wire uses a "bullet" style
connector not a ring connector as shown in photo #1 below.

My engine is a: 1996 Mercury 60HP "Bigfoot" SN: OG330757

I hope the photos I uploaded here will help someone help me identify the
correct part number for the relay wiring harness:

www.musclecarsounds.com/boats/relay1.jpg (new, incorrect harness)
www.musclecarsounds.com/boats/relay2.jpg (old as installed)
www.musclecarsounds.com/boats/relay3.jpg (old as installed)
www.musclecarsounds.com/boats/relay4.jpg (old as installed)

Thanks.

Chuck

"jamesgangnc" wrote in message
...
Why are you buying a wiring harness?

"Chuck" wrote in message
news:zaiRk.370458$TT4.345549@attbi_s22...
The part that I recently ordered and received based on the serial number
of my engine was a Mercury Quicksilver "84-826802A12" but when I opened
the box the new blue and green output wires to the trim/tilt pump are at
least 14" too short. Also, my "hot" red wire uses a "bullet" style
connector not a ring connector as shown in photo #1 below.

My engine is a: 1996 Mercury 60HP "Bigfoot" SN: OG330757

I hope the photos I uploaded here will help someone help me identify the
correct part number for the relay wiring harness:

www.musclecarsounds.com/boats/relay1.jpg (new, incorrect harness)
www.musclecarsounds.com/boats/relay2.jpg (old as installed)
www.musclecarsounds.com/boats/relay3.jpg (old as installed)
www.musclecarsounds.com/boats/relay4.jpg (old as installed)

Thanks.

Chuck

Because sal****er corrosion got into the bottom of the relay sockets and the
wires have corroded off, especially the one on the left. I uploaded a new
photo to illustrate the problem better he
www.musclecarsounds.com/boats/relay5.jpg

wrote in message
...
On Sat, 08 Nov 2008 15:24:15 GMT, "Chuck" wrote:

The part that I recently ordered and received based on the serial number
of
my engine was a Mercury Quicksilver "84-826802A12" but when I opened the
box
the new blue and green output wires to the trim/tilt pump are at least 14"
too short. Also, my "hot" red wire uses a "bullet" style connector not a
ring connector as shown in photo #1 below.

My engine is a: 1996 Mercury 60HP "Bigfoot" SN: OG330757

I hope the photos I uploaded here will help someone help me identify the
correct part number for the relay wiring harness:

www.musclecarsounds.com/boats/relay1.jpg (new, incorrect harness)
www.musclecarsounds.com/boats/relay2.jpg (old as installed)
www.musclecarsounds.com/boats/relay3.jpg (old as installed)
www.musclecarsounds.com/boats/relay4.jpg (old as installed)

Thanks.

Chuck

I saw your other picture of the socket too. You got the "classic"
harness that they used on the 1990 era engine. I bet your S/N is right
on the cusp. I would try again with a dealer who can bump your S/N up
a year.

Very good suggestion. I will run this past them. I might also just try to
find the new female spade-lug terminals and re-terminate the wires on the
sockets myself. Getting frustrating. Good thing I wont be running again
until Spring.

wrote in message
...
On Mon, 10 Nov 2008 23:38:26 GMT, "Chuck" wrote:


wrote in message
. ..
On Sat, 08 Nov 2008 15:24:15 GMT, "Chuck" wrote:

The part that I recently ordered and received based on the serial number
of
my engine was a Mercury Quicksilver "84-826802A12" but when I opened the
box
the new blue and green output wires to the trim/tilt pump are at least
14"
too short. Also, my "hot" red wire uses a "bullet" style connector not
a
ring connector as shown in photo #1 below.

My engine is a: 1996 Mercury 60HP "Bigfoot" SN: OG330757

I hope the photos I uploaded here will help someone help me identify the
correct part number for the relay wiring harness:

www.musclecarsounds.com/boats/relay1.jpg (new, incorrect harness)
www.musclecarsounds.com/boats/relay2.jpg (old as installed)
www.musclecarsounds.com/boats/relay3.jpg (old as installed)
www.musclecarsounds.com/boats/relay4.jpg (old as installed)

Thanks.

Chuck

I saw your other picture of the socket too. You got the "classic"
harness that they used on the 1990 era engine. I bet your S/N is right
on the cusp. I would try again with a dealer who can bump your S/N up
a year.

Very good suggestion. I will run this past them. I might also just try to
find the new female spade-lug terminals and re-terminate the wires on the
sockets myself. Getting frustrating. Good thing I wont be running again
until Spring.

If you are going to all the expense and trouble to replace the whole
wiring harness you should get the right one. Otherwise just fix the
one you have by pigtailing on another wire and get your money back on
the one that isn't right.

I am sure a good parts guy can sort this out. Start by finding a motor
catalog page (similar to yours) with the right style trim relays and
use the cable from that page. The ones with ring terminals look like
old style Ford/AMC starter solenoids.

This guy has a pretty good assortment of catalogs you can browse
http://www.marinepartsexpress.com/mercury_sch_fs.html

You have been very helpful. When I get right down to it, all I really need
is ten of these: www.musclecarsounds.com/boats/relay6.jpg Still working
with the dealer on this.

On Tue, 11 Nov 2008 16:33:07 GMT, "Chuck" wrote:

You have been very helpful. When I get right down to it, all I really need
is ten of these: www.musclecarsounds.com/boats/relay6.jpg Still working
with the dealer on this.

Have you tried a standard female disconnect from West Marine:

http://tinyurl.com/6bkhxt

wrote:
On Tue, 11 Nov 2008 16:33:07 GMT, "Chuck" wrote:

I am sure a good parts guy can sort this out. Start by finding a motor
catalog page (similar to yours) with the right style trim relays and
use the cable from that page. The ones with ring terminals look like
old style Ford/AMC starter solenoids.

This guy has a pretty good assortment of catalogs you can browse
http://www.marinepartsexpress.com/mercury_sch_fs.html
You have been very helpful. When I get right down to it, all I really need
is ten of these: www.musclecarsounds.com/boats/relay6.jpg Still working
with the dealer on this.

If you can figure out who makes the connector body I bet you can get
the spade sockets for it. (I am betting Tyco/AMP)
I would start at Digikey.com but you might have to buy a bunch of them
unless you have something else "electronic" you need. I think they
have a $10 minimum.
I will warn you, Digikey sells all sorts of cool electronic parts so
if you like this kind of stuff your credit card limit may be more
important than the minimum order ;-)
The other thing you need is the right "Amp" style crimper unless you
squeeze them and solder them. Just mashing them with pliers will not
work. These form that "M" fold in the connector.

Those connectors are available at any auto supply store or Marine supply
store. Get the crimper there also. Ancor makes quality crimp terminals
and crimpers as well as marine wire.

wrote in message
...
On Tue, 11 Nov 2008 12:31:40 -0500, Wayne.B
wrote:

On Tue, 11 Nov 2008 16:33:07 GMT, "Chuck" wrote:

You have been very helpful. When I get right down to it, all I really
need
is ten of these: www.musclecarsounds.com/boats/relay6.jpg Still working
with the dealer on this.

Have you tried a standard female disconnect from West Marine:

http://tinyurl.com/6bkhxt



I am guessing he wants the ones that fit in the socket body for his
relays

Correct... I needed an uninsulated terminal specifically designed to fit
inside a relay socket base. I took the new harness back to the boat dealer
who was of no help whatsoever. They also charged me a 10% restocking fee.
Anyway, I pulled the old harness out today so I could work with it easily,
pull the bad terminal out and clean and replace it. After I had the old one
in my hand, I went online to www.Jameco.com and didn't find anything so I
went to our auto store "Parts Plus" and found almost what I needed. You can
see the product I found as well as the old corroded female terminal I needed
to replace here www.musclecarsounds.com/boats/relay7.jpg It fits but it
doesn't really lock into the socket the way it should, but close.

Thanks to all who kept me motivated to do this.

Chuck (the other one)

wrote in message
...
On Tue, 11 Nov 2008 16:33:07 GMT, "Chuck" wrote:

I am sure a good parts guy can sort this out. Start by finding a motor
catalog page (similar to yours) with the right style trim relays and
use the cable from that page. The ones with ring terminals look like
old style Ford/AMC starter solenoids.

This guy has a pretty good assortment of catalogs you can browse
http://www.marinepartsexpress.com/mercury_sch_fs.html

You have been very helpful. When I get right down to it, all I really
need
is ten of these: www.musclecarsounds.com/boats/relay6.jpg Still working
with the dealer on this.

If you can figure out who makes the connector body I bet you can get
the spade sockets for it. (I am betting Tyco/AMP)
I would start at Digikey.com but you might have to buy a bunch of them
unless you have something else "electronic" you need. I think they
have a $10 minimum.
I will warn you, Digikey sells all sorts of cool electronic parts so
if you like this kind of stuff your credit card limit may be more
important than the minimum order ;-)
The other thing you need is the right "Amp" style crimper unless you
squeeze them and solder them. Just mashing them with pliers will not
work. These form that "M" fold in the connector.

After closer inspection, only the one red "hot" supply wire needed
replacement. For that reason, I did not go the route of purchasing a new
crimper, although I agree it should have been used. I did reterminate the
one bad wire by carefully crimping it, and then by soldering it just to be
sure it stays put. Here are the final two photos I will post about this
harness repair job. One photo is blurry and the other one is crystal
clear... and I don't quite know how I pulled that feat off other than the
fact that I took about ten pictures and only uploaded the best ones.

see: www.musclecarsounds.com/boats/relay8.jpg and
www.musclecarsounds.com/boats/relay9.jpg