Thanks for the responses, I will replace the coil and points and see
if that makes a difference. As well as continue to look for other
things that might be the problem. If that doesn't work I will see if
I can borrow some ignition and fuel gauges. Also the timing gauge
that you use to adjust the timing with a timing light is completely
unreadable on my engine. It is there but is too rusty to read. So if
anyone can post a picture of this gauge or can explain what it reads
on the gauge I would appreciate it. I would then use the gauge to at
least get an estimate of where the timing should be. I can't replace
this because it would require replacing the whole timing cover.
Thanks, James.

On Mon, 20 Aug 2007 18:02:02 -0700, JamesE
wrote:

Thanks for the responses, I will replace the coil and points and see
if that makes a difference. As well as continue to look for other
things that might be the problem. If that doesn't work I will see if
I can borrow some ignition and fuel gauges. Also the timing gauge
that you use to adjust the timing with a timing light is completely
unreadable on my engine. It is there but is too rusty to read. So if
anyone can post a picture of this gauge or can explain what it reads
on the gauge I would appreciate it. I would then use the gauge to at
least get an estimate of where the timing should be. I can't replace
this because it would require replacing the whole timing cover.
Thanks, James.

Not familiar with the timing marks on yours, but a wire brush might
make it all readable. Paint the fixed and movable marks with white
or yellow nail polish when you find them.
Look on the net for a picture to help you out, or find somebody who
knows where the marks are.

--Vic

Vic Smith wrote:
On Mon, 20 Aug 2007 18:02:02 -0700, JamesE
wrote:

Thanks for the responses, I will replace the coil and points and see
if that makes a difference. As well as continue to look for other
things that might be the problem. If that doesn't work I will see if
I can borrow some ignition and fuel gauges. Also the timing gauge
that you use to adjust the timing with a timing light is completely
unreadable on my engine. It is there but is too rusty to read. So if
anyone can post a picture of this gauge or can explain what it reads
on the gauge I would appreciate it. I would then use the gauge to at
least get an estimate of where the timing should be. I can't replace
this because it would require replacing the whole timing cover.
Thanks, James.

Not familiar with the timing marks on yours, but a wire brush might
make it all readable. Paint the fixed and movable marks with white
or yellow nail polish when you find them.
Look on the net for a picture to help you out, or find somebody who
knows where the marks are.

--Vic

Bingo.

And then you just have to be close.

Then time it by ear & tach on the water in real running conditions.
Once you have it set with the Pertronix module, you'll never have to
change it again unless your fuel or altitude changes drastically.

Rob

I would try using a wire brush to clean the gauge but it is rusted so
thin I am positive that it would then break off completely. I tried
using contact cleaner but that didn't help. I will look on the
Internet for pictures, but the timing is in a spot right now where it
will run so maybe I will just try and adjust it by ear on the water.
Also while I have the distributor apart what kind of chemicals can I
use to clean the mechanical advance? I was thinking contact cleaner
to get the dirt out because that evaporates quickly. Also should I
put grease or anything on it? I didn't want to use Wd-40 because I
was afraid that it would interfere with the points. But if I put on
the conversion kit that shouldn't be a problem. Thanks, James.

On Aug 21, 1:35 pm, JamesE wrote:
I would try using a wire brush to clean the gauge but it is rusted so
thin I am positive that it would then break off completely. I tried
using contact cleaner but that didn't help. I will look on the
Internet for pictures, but the timing is in a spot right now where it
will run so maybe I will just try and adjust it by ear on the water.
Also while I have the distributor apart what kind of chemicals can I
use to clean the mechanical advance? I was thinking contact cleaner
to get the dirt out because that evaporates quickly. Also should I
put grease or anything on it? I didn't want to use Wd-40 because I
was afraid that it would interfere with the points. But if I put on
the conversion kit that shouldn't be a problem. Thanks, James.

Wd40 is good for cleaning and freeing up things but it's not a long
lasting lubricant. Use an oil or light grease on the advance pivots
after cleaning.

Heat related starting issues is almost always either vapor lock or the
coil. Vapor lock can just be the symptom of a cooling problem as
well.

I recomend you clean the timing marks or get a new one. Setting
timing by ear is a good way to end up with detonation and that's bad
for your engine. A stock engine should have the timing set to the
manufacturers recomended setting. A lot of those degree markers are
just bolted under a couple of the timing cover bolts. They are cheap.

On Aug 21, 3:09 pm, jamesgangnc wrote:
On Aug 21, 1:35 pm, JamesE wrote:

I would try using a wire brush to clean the gauge but it is rusted so
thin I am positive that it would then break off completely. I tried
using contact cleaner but that didn't help. I will look on the
Internet for pictures, but the timing is in a spot right now where it
will run so maybe I will just try and adjust it by ear on the water.
Also while I have the distributor apart what kind of chemicals can I
use to clean the mechanical advance? I was thinking contact cleaner
to get the dirt out because that evaporates quickly. Also should I
put grease or anything on it? I didn't want to use Wd-40 because I
was afraid that it would interfere with the points. But if I put on
the conversion kit that shouldn't be a problem. Thanks, James.

Wd40 is good for cleaning and freeing up things but it's not a long
lasting lubricant. Use an oil or light grease on the advance pivots
after cleaning.

Heat related starting issues is almost always either vapor lock or the
coil. Vapor lock can just be the symptom of a cooling problem as
well.

I recomend you clean the timing marks or get a new one. Setting
timing by ear is a good way to end up with detonation and that's bad
for your engine. A stock engine should have the timing set to the
manufacturers recomended setting. A lot of those degree markers are
just bolted under a couple of the timing cover bolts. They are cheap.

Thanks, I would replace the timing marks but I have already looked
into replacing them and it is welded on and the only way to replace it
would require replacing the entire timing cover. I don't think that
the problem is vapor lock because the engine doesn't run hot, only
about 165 to 170 degrees. Also even if I let the boat cool down after
it dies it won't start unless I adjust the timing. Therefore I think
that it is the coil causing the problems, and I went out and bought
that today so I am hoping that replacing it will fix the problem.
James

"JamesE" wrote in message
oups.com...
On Aug 21, 3:09 pm, jamesgangnc wrote:
On Aug 21, 1:35 pm, JamesE wrote:

I would try using a wire brush to clean the gauge but it is rusted so
thin I am positive that it would then break off completely. I tried
using contact cleaner but that didn't help. I will look on the
Internet for pictures, but the timing is in a spot right now where it
will run so maybe I will just try and adjust it by ear on the water.
Also while I have the distributor apart what kind of chemicals can I
use to clean the mechanical advance? I was thinking contact cleaner
to get the dirt out because that evaporates quickly. Also should I
put grease or anything on it? I didn't want to use Wd-40 because I
was afraid that it would interfere with the points. But if I put on
the conversion kit that shouldn't be a problem. Thanks, James.

Wd40 is good for cleaning and freeing up things but it's not a long
lasting lubricant. Use an oil or light grease on the advance pivots
after cleaning.

Heat related starting issues is almost always either vapor lock or the
coil. Vapor lock can just be the symptom of a cooling problem as
well.

I recomend you clean the timing marks or get a new one. Setting
timing by ear is a good way to end up with detonation and that's bad
for your engine. A stock engine should have the timing set to the
manufacturers recomended setting. A lot of those degree markers are
just bolted under a couple of the timing cover bolts. They are cheap.

Thanks, I would replace the timing marks but I have already looked
into replacing them and it is welded on and the only way to replace it
would require replacing the entire timing cover. I don't think that
the problem is vapor lock because the engine doesn't run hot, only
about 165 to 170 degrees. Also even if I let the boat cool down after
it dies it won't start unless I adjust the timing. Therefore I think
that it is the coil causing the problems, and I went out and bought
that today so I am hoping that replacing it will fix the problem.
James


Summit Racing and probably Jags has stick on timing tapes. Sticks on the
harmonic balancer. Or just find the timing marks and use some contrasting
paint to fill them in.

Regarding the timing guage I went and looked at a new one so I now
know where the timing should be. I also replaced all of those parts
like the coil but that didn't make a difference so I kept looking for
the problem. I then rebuilt the carburetor which made it run much
better but didn't fix the problem. Then I cleaned the engine grounds
and that fixed the problem. I guess the heat was affecting the ground
which is why it would die and not start, then start up fine in the
morning. Also I guess the reason changing the timing helped to get it
started was because it was making a better ground with the
distributor. Thanks everyone for helping me.

On Thu, 06 Sep 2007 12:26:01 -0700, JamesE
wrote:

Regarding the timing guage I went and looked at a new one so I now
know where the timing should be. I also replaced all of those parts
like the coil but that didn't make a difference so I kept looking for
the problem. I then rebuilt the carburetor which made it run much
better but didn't fix the problem. Then I cleaned the engine grounds
and that fixed the problem. I guess the heat was affecting the ground
which is why it would die and not start, then start up fine in the
morning. Also I guess the reason changing the timing helped to get it
started was because it was making a better ground with the
distributor. Thanks everyone for helping me.

Thanks for the results. Might help somebody else down the line.
Not sure what grounds you cleaned up, but it might just have been heat
upping the resistance a bit, and while you played with the distributor
it cooled off enough. Just guessing.
But I had a similar problem with a primary ignition wire laying
against a head and when it reached a certain temp it would kill the
engine. Let it cool off and it was fine.
Fuel pressure/volume was good, so I wasted a new control module trying
to fix it to no avail. I hung my head in defeat over the engine, the
sun came through the clouds at the correct angle, and my eye caught
a glint in the wire on the head near the firewall.
An inch of electrical tape fixed it and my 3 month nightmare was over.
Of course I had failed to the wire in its loop when I changed the
valve cover gasket the previous year, so had nobody to blame but
myself. But I still don't like Chrysler.

--Vic