On 3 Apr 2007 14:19:13 -0700, "Tim" wrote:

Thoughts on oils and brands?

I agree with Clams on this - for that engine, I would use Wal Mart's
TCW3 clone 2-cycle oil - more than good enough. Semi and full
synthetics will work too, but the engine wasn't designed for those
oils.

The only caveat I would offer would be to make the blend a little
richer - like 40:1 instead of 50:1 and maybe go with a little hotter
plug. It will smoke a little more, but at that age and without a
rebuild, the extra lube can't hurt.

On Apr 3, 5:47 pm, Short Wave Sportfishing wrote:
On 3 Apr 2007 14:19:13 -0700, "Tim" wrote:

Thoughts on oils and brands?

I agree with Clams on this - for that engine, I would use Wal Mart's
TCW3 clone 2-cycle oil - more than good enough. Semi and full
synthetics will work too, but the engine wasn't designed for those
oils.

The only caveat I would offer would be to make the blend a little
richer - like 40:1 instead of 50:1 and maybe go with a little hotter
plug. It will smoke a little more, but at that age and without a
rebuild, the extra lube can't hurt.

That's just it, Tom. this engine is practically new even though it's a
mid 70's unit, the "engine" is about 10 years old, with almost no time
on it. It was origionally on a Glastron 174, and used wide open a lot
and got a work out every season, then, from what I understand it just
got to be about powerless. so in 1994, to the doctor it went, and had
an Evinrude factory "reman" power head installed. so the only thing
origional on this unit is the lower leg, and some hang on stuff. It
was used for a season on lake and river water in '96, then parked
because somebody barely made it back to shore because the hull had a
big chunk out of it, from side swiping a bridge piling. it went on the
trailer and sat in the guys back yard for a few years, then they
wanted it gone, and pulled the engine and trashed the boat, hun the
engine in a garage, until this year. The owner died, and the kids are
wanting to clean up and sell the property. They have no interest in
the engine, and I'm getting it "cheap" , like .... about a hundred
bucks "cheap".

I'm anticipating the crank seals needing replaced from sitting so
long.

Wouldn't a hotter plug be dangerous to the pistons?

On 3 Apr 2007 16:22:46 -0700, "Tim" wrote:

I'm anticipating the crank seals needing replaced from sitting so
long.

Wouldn't a hotter plug be dangerous to the pistons?

Ah well - just goes to show you that I didnt read everything I should
have.

Was it stored properly? Winterized?

The first thing I would do in this circumstance is get some light
machine oil, remove the plugs and squirt the oil into the cylinders.
Rotate the engine by hand fora while to get some lubrication into the
rings and onto the cylinder walls. You might want to do a compression
check too just to make sure everything is seated properly once that is
done. Pulling the crank case might also be a good idea just to get
some lube onto the crank shaft, bearings and connecting rod - stuff
like that.

The seals could be a problem - probably worth your while to change
them if you have the time. Definetly the impeller in the lower unit.
And as long as you have it off, lube up the shift and drive shafts.

I might be suspicious of the carbs if they've been sitting for a long
time, although that may not be a problem. I know on older tractors
that I've restored I've always done the carbs just because even if the
tractor was running when I bought it.

Still a pretty good deal as is.

As to the hotter plug, I only mention that because of the extra oil.
If the engine is relatively newish, then don't use the extra oil -
50:1 is fine. And by hotter plug, I wasn't talking a really hot plug,
but just a tad higher than what is in there.

"Tim" wrote in message

I'm anticipating the crank seals needing replaced from sitting so
long.

Doubtfull - In general they seem quite resiliant.

-W

On Apr 4, 7:40 am, "Clams Canino" wrote:
"Tim" wrote in message
I'm anticipating the crank seals needing replaced from sitting so
long.

Doubtfull - In general they seem quite resiliant.

-W

Yeah,I know they're pretty tough, but I figured that sitting still
for the past 10 yrs they'd get brittle. seems some things will wear
worse sitting dead for a decade then they would running the whole
time.

Figgure the bottom seals stayed wet for sure. The upper is the only
question mark. Based on my extensive experience with old Mercs - it's prolly
fine. Spray some soapy water on it and spin the motor.

-W

"Tim" wrote in message
oups.com...
On Apr 4, 7:40 am, "Clams Canino" wrote:
"Tim" wrote in message
I'm anticipating the crank seals needing replaced from sitting so
long.

Doubtfull - In general they seem quite resiliant.

-W

Yeah,I know they're pretty tough, but I figured that sitting still
for the past 10 yrs they'd get brittle. seems some things will wear
worse sitting dead for a decade then they would running the whole
time.

On Apr 4, 3:11 pm, "Clams Canino" wrote:
Figgure the bottom seals stayed wet for sure. The upper is the only
question mark. Based on my extensive experience with old Mercs - it's prolly
fine. Spray some soapy water on it and spin the motor.

-W

"Tim" wrote in message

oups.com...



On Apr 4, 7:40 am, "Clams Canino" wrote:
"Tim" wrote in message
I'm anticipating the crank seals needing replaced from sitting so
long.

Doubtfull - In general they seem quite resiliant.

-W

Yeah,I know they're pretty tough, but I figured that sitting still
for the past 10 yrs they'd get brittle. seems some things will wear
worse sitting dead for a decade then they would running the whole
time.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Good idea. I'll pull the flywheel this weekend. will applying the soap
help to soften the seal? or to detect of leaking vacuum?

Detect. If you wanna soften the seal just pour some light oil on the upper
end cap.

I highly doubt it'll be an issue. The exception is if the upper main
bearing is at all loose (wobbly) - that would put a bit of undue movement on
an older seal.

-W

"Tim" wrote in message
oups.com...
On Apr 4, 3:11 pm, "Clams Canino" wrote:
Figgure the bottom seals stayed wet for sure. The upper is the only
question mark. Based on my extensive experience with old Mercs - it's
prolly
fine. Spray some soapy water on it and spin the motor.

-W

"Tim" wrote in message

oups.com...



On Apr 4, 7:40 am, "Clams Canino" wrote:
"Tim" wrote in message
I'm anticipating the crank seals needing replaced from sitting so
long.

Doubtfull - In general they seem quite resiliant.

-W

Yeah,I know they're pretty tough, but I figured that sitting still
for the past 10 yrs they'd get brittle. seems some things will wear
worse sitting dead for a decade then they would running the whole
time.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Good idea. I'll pull the flywheel this weekend. will applying the soap
help to soften the seal? or to detect of leaking vacuum?

Extra lube is not a good thing. It ends up as deposits.

"Short Wave Sportfishing" wrote in message
...
On 3 Apr 2007 14:19:13 -0700, "Tim" wrote:

Thoughts on oils and brands?

I agree with Clams on this - for that engine, I would use Wal Mart's
TCW3 clone 2-cycle oil - more than good enough. Semi and full
synthetics will work too, but the engine wasn't designed for those
oils.

The only caveat I would offer would be to make the blend a little
richer - like 40:1 instead of 50:1 and maybe go with a little hotter
plug. It will smoke a little more, but at that age and without a
rebuild, the extra lube can't hurt.

Extra lube is not a good thing. It ends up as deposits.

Any deposits that *may* be formed from extra lubrication, is negated by the
benefits of some extra lube in an older 2 stroke. It's a cost/benefit type
thing, and the bennies win in this case.

--Mike

"James" wrote in message
ink.net...
Extra lube is not a good thing. It ends up as deposits.

"Short Wave Sportfishing" wrote in message
...
On 3 Apr 2007 14:19:13 -0700, "Tim" wrote:

Thoughts on oils and brands?

I agree with Clams on this - for that engine, I would use Wal Mart's
TCW3 clone 2-cycle oil - more than good enough. Semi and full
synthetics will work too, but the engine wasn't designed for those
oils.

The only caveat I would offer would be to make the blend a little
richer - like 40:1 instead of 50:1 and maybe go with a little hotter
plug. It will smoke a little more, but at that age and without a
rebuild, the extra lube can't hurt.