Extra lube is not a good thing. It ends up as deposits.

"Short Wave Sportfishing" wrote in message
...
On 3 Apr 2007 14:19:13 -0700, "Tim" wrote:

Thoughts on oils and brands?

I agree with Clams on this - for that engine, I would use Wal Mart's
TCW3 clone 2-cycle oil - more than good enough. Semi and full
synthetics will work too, but the engine wasn't designed for those
oils.

The only caveat I would offer would be to make the blend a little
richer - like 40:1 instead of 50:1 and maybe go with a little hotter
plug. It will smoke a little more, but at that age and without a
rebuild, the extra lube can't hurt.

Extra lube is not a good thing. It ends up as deposits.

Any deposits that *may* be formed from extra lubrication, is negated by the
benefits of some extra lube in an older 2 stroke. It's a cost/benefit type
thing, and the bennies win in this case.

--Mike

"James" wrote in message
ink.net...
Extra lube is not a good thing. It ends up as deposits.

"Short Wave Sportfishing" wrote in message
...
On 3 Apr 2007 14:19:13 -0700, "Tim" wrote:

Thoughts on oils and brands?

I agree with Clams on this - for that engine, I would use Wal Mart's
TCW3 clone 2-cycle oil - more than good enough. Semi and full
synthetics will work too, but the engine wasn't designed for those
oils.

The only caveat I would offer would be to make the blend a little
richer - like 40:1 instead of 50:1 and maybe go with a little hotter
plug. It will smoke a little more, but at that age and without a
rebuild, the extra lube can't hurt.

On Apr 4, 12:15 am, "Mike" wrote:
Extra lube is not a good thing. It ends up as deposits.

Any deposits that *may* be formed from extra lubrication, is negated by the
benefits of some extra lube in an older 2 stroke. It's a cost/benefit type
thing, and the bennies win in this case.

--Mike


And deposits can be cleaned out easier and cheaper than replacing
scored pistons and worn berings.

"Tim" wrote in message

I'm anticipating the crank seals needing replaced from sitting so
long.

Doubtfull - In general they seem quite resiliant.

-W

On Apr 4, 7:40 am, "Clams Canino" wrote:
"Tim" wrote in message
I'm anticipating the crank seals needing replaced from sitting so
long.

Doubtfull - In general they seem quite resiliant.

-W

Yeah,I know they're pretty tough, but I figured that sitting still
for the past 10 yrs they'd get brittle. seems some things will wear
worse sitting dead for a decade then they would running the whole
time.

Figgure the bottom seals stayed wet for sure. The upper is the only
question mark. Based on my extensive experience with old Mercs - it's prolly
fine. Spray some soapy water on it and spin the motor.

-W

"Tim" wrote in message
oups.com...
On Apr 4, 7:40 am, "Clams Canino" wrote:
"Tim" wrote in message
I'm anticipating the crank seals needing replaced from sitting so
long.

Doubtfull - In general they seem quite resiliant.

-W

Yeah,I know they're pretty tough, but I figured that sitting still
for the past 10 yrs they'd get brittle. seems some things will wear
worse sitting dead for a decade then they would running the whole
time.

On Apr 4, 3:11 pm, "Clams Canino" wrote:
Figgure the bottom seals stayed wet for sure. The upper is the only
question mark. Based on my extensive experience with old Mercs - it's prolly
fine. Spray some soapy water on it and spin the motor.

-W

"Tim" wrote in message

oups.com...



On Apr 4, 7:40 am, "Clams Canino" wrote:
"Tim" wrote in message
I'm anticipating the crank seals needing replaced from sitting so
long.

Doubtfull - In general they seem quite resiliant.

-W

Yeah,I know they're pretty tough, but I figured that sitting still
for the past 10 yrs they'd get brittle. seems some things will wear
worse sitting dead for a decade then they would running the whole
time.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Good idea. I'll pull the flywheel this weekend. will applying the soap
help to soften the seal? or to detect of leaking vacuum?

Detect. If you wanna soften the seal just pour some light oil on the upper
end cap.

I highly doubt it'll be an issue. The exception is if the upper main
bearing is at all loose (wobbly) - that would put a bit of undue movement on
an older seal.

-W

"Tim" wrote in message
oups.com...
On Apr 4, 3:11 pm, "Clams Canino" wrote:
Figgure the bottom seals stayed wet for sure. The upper is the only
question mark. Based on my extensive experience with old Mercs - it's
prolly
fine. Spray some soapy water on it and spin the motor.

-W

"Tim" wrote in message

oups.com...



On Apr 4, 7:40 am, "Clams Canino" wrote:
"Tim" wrote in message
I'm anticipating the crank seals needing replaced from sitting so
long.

Doubtfull - In general they seem quite resiliant.

-W

Yeah,I know they're pretty tough, but I figured that sitting still
for the past 10 yrs they'd get brittle. seems some things will wear
worse sitting dead for a decade then they would running the whole
time.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Good idea. I'll pull the flywheel this weekend. will applying the soap
help to soften the seal? or to detect of leaking vacuum?

Clams Canino wrote:
Detect. If you wanna soften the seal just pour some light oil on the upper
end cap.

I highly doubt it'll be an issue. The exception is if the upper main
bearing is at all loose (wobbly) - that would put a bit of undue movement on
an older seal.

-W



God call Clams.

Yes, this is in all essence a 10 year old "new" engine. I doubt
there's any play in the crank .

Will still check it out, though. Make sure all things are in working
order, then re-mothball it, and wait for the right tube boat to come
along.

Thanks for your thoughts.

Tim

On 5 Apr 2007 06:45:34 -0700, "Tim" wrote:

God call Clams.

Ok.

Hey Clams - Tim said to call you...