I didn't know about corrosion and the effects of different metals when I
added a wake board tower to my runabout 5 years ago.
The other night, a 5/8" stainless steel bolt failed at the point where it
threads into a solid aluminum mount. The bolt is corroded to the mounting
plate it penetrates. There's insufficient space behind it to knock it
through and not enough thread exposed to put a nut on it to pull it through.
I sprayed it with penetrating oil and banged on it to try to get the oil to
saturate the corrosion, but don't think it's going to work.
looks like I have to try drilling it out and using an extractor - something
I've never been able to do before.
The frustration grows because the mounts are all inside the gunwales with
barely enough space to get my fingers or wrench inside. I never thought I'd
have to touch the nuts after I got them installed.
So, the moral of the story is that I always use antisieze now, but didn't
know about it 5 years ago.
Any ideas on breaking the corrosion on this and other mounting bolts that
are sure to be equally corroded?

In this situation heat is probably out of question...
so-
KROIL.
A little had to find, but works wonders.
If not that, PB Blaster (most parts stores)
WD 40 is WORTHLESS for this.

Soak with Kroil or PB, rap with hammer, soak, repeat a bunch of times, good
luck

"William G. Andersen" wrote in message
news:LwPvc.38389$oi5.16111@fed1read07...
I didn't know about corrosion and the effects of different metals when I
added a wake board tower to my runabout 5 years ago.
The other night, a 5/8" stainless steel bolt failed at the point where it
threads into a solid aluminum mount. The bolt is corroded to the mounting
plate it penetrates. There's insufficient space behind it to knock it
through and not enough thread exposed to put a nut on it to pull it
through.
I sprayed it with penetrating oil and banged on it to try to get the oil
to
saturate the corrosion, but don't think it's going to work.
looks like I have to try drilling it out and using an extractor -
something
I've never been able to do before.
The frustration grows because the mounts are all inside the gunwales with
barely enough space to get my fingers or wrench inside. I never thought
I'd
have to touch the nuts after I got them installed.
So, the moral of the story is that I always use antisieze now, but didn't
know about it 5 years ago.
Any ideas on breaking the corrosion on this and other mounting bolts that
are sure to be equally corroded?

"bomar" wrote in message
...
In this situation heat is probably out of question...
so-
KROIL.
A little had to find, but works wonders.
If not that, PB Blaster (most parts stores)
WD 40 is WORTHLESS for this.


www.kanolabs.com manufactures and sells Kroil and their other products
direct from their website.

Jack

"Jack Goff" wrote in message
m...

"bomar" wrote in message
...
In this situation heat is probably out of question...
so-
KROIL.
A little had to find, but works wonders.
If not that, PB Blaster (most parts stores)
WD 40 is WORTHLESS for this.


www.kanolabs.com manufactures and sells Kroil and their other products
direct from their website.

Jack

And is the finest product of it's type on the market!

"Jack Goff" wrote in message
m...

"bomar" wrote in message
...
In this situation heat is probably out of question...
so-
KROIL.
A little had to find, but works wonders.
If not that, PB Blaster (most parts stores)
WD 40 is WORTHLESS for this.


www.kanolabs.com manufactures and sells Kroil and their other products
direct from their website.

Jack

Good stuff, but there is better-
http://corrosionx.com/

Also Sprach Joe :

"Jack Goff" wrote in message
m...

"bomar" wrote in message
...
In this situation heat is probably out of question...
so-
KROIL.
A little had to find, but works wonders.
If not that, PB Blaster (most parts stores)
WD 40 is WORTHLESS for this.


www.kanolabs.com manufactures and sells Kroil and their other products
direct from their website.

Jack

Good stuff, but there is better-
http://corrosionx.com/

Corrosion-X is a fine, but messy preventative, but a **** poor
penetrant. Kroil is a fine penenetrant, but there is one even
better. http//www.mousemilk.com/ Ask any experienced A&P mechanic.

Dan

--

"If not stopped, the 21 million-plus and growing (Napster & Gnutella)
community could usher in a cultural apocalypse that threatens to plunge
the world into darkness not seen since the turn of the last millennium."

-Richard Parsons, AOL-Time Warner executive

Here's my follow up.
Didn't find Kroil or CorrosionX in the few stores near my boat, so I bought
SiliKroil and CB4 CorrosionProof.
Spent the day applying them to the several nuts and bolts I wanted to
remove, tapping them with a nailset and hammer, tried to remove them.
Finally drilled out the end of the 5/8" bolt, didn't have any luck using an
extractor, but used vise grips to twist the bolt inside the gunwale until I
had enough thread protruding to twist and pull it out. The bolt was held by
a nut inside the gunwale; the bolt ran through the backing and mounting
plates, but wasn't threaded through them. Comparing the old bolt to it's
replacement reveals that the bolt did not shear and was not corroded. The
threads of the bolt and the mount it screws into were in good condition,
except for the beginning threads of the mount which were
stripped/crossed/unusable.
During the original installation the bolt was threaded into the mount,
passed through the mounting and backing plates, flat and lock washers, and
then the nut. I suspect that after the nut was drawn up tight, continued
turning resulted in turning the bolt and unthreading it from the mount to
the point where it was held only by a few threads. Some severe bumping
probably caused the last few threads to lose their grip, allowing the bolt
to separate from the mount.

"Gene Kearns" wrote in message
...
On 5 Jun 2004 10:55:24 GMT, Marshall Banana wrote:

Also Sprach Joe :

"Jack Goff" wrote in message
m...

"bomar" wrote in message
...
In this situation heat is probably out of question...
so-
KROIL.
A little had to find, but works wonders.
If not that, PB Blaster (most parts stores)
WD 40 is WORTHLESS for this.


www.kanolabs.com manufactures and sells Kroil and their other products
direct from their website.

Jack

Good stuff, but there is better-
http://corrosionx.com/

Corrosion-X is a fine, but messy preventative, but a **** poor
penetrant. Kroil is a fine penenetrant, but there is one even
better. http//www.mousemilk.com/ Ask any experienced A&P mechanic.

Dan


Kroil is better than Mouse's Milk for most applications. Mouse's Milk
was designed to remove carbon from and free up waste gates... it's
forte isn't garden variety corrosion, though it will work.

It may be possible to drill and tap the broken bolt with a 1/4 or 5/16
inch thread and remove using a slide hammer.

Make absolutely sure to drill in the center... since you eventually
may be forced to drill the bolt out with a 17/32 drill and clean up
with a 5/8 tap... (assumes 5/8-11 thds.)
--
23' Grady White, out of Southport, NC.

http://myworkshop.idleplay.net/cavern/
Homepage
http://www.southharbourvillageinn.com/directions.asp Where Southport,NC
is located.
http://southharbourvillageinn.linksysnet.com Real Time
Pictures at My Marina
http://www.thebayguide.com/rec.boats Rec.boats
at Lee Yeaton's Bayguide

On Sat, 05 Jun 2004 15:20:00 -0400, "Gene Kearns"
wrote:

On that thought..... unless absolutely unavoidable, I just don't mix
steel and aluminum. Do you think aluminum fasteners would be a better
option?
======================================

Most aluminum sailboat masts are liberally sprinkled with stainless
steel fittings and fasteners. Corrosion related failure is almost
unheard of but the fasteners do become frozen over time. A trick that
I learned from a professional rigger is to coat the fastener with
silicone before insertion. It makes removal much easier at a later
date and helps to minimize surface corrosion around the fastener.

Aluminum fasteners are too weak for most applications.

"Joe" wrote in message ...
"Jack Goff" wrote in message
m...

"bomar" wrote in message
...
In this situation heat is probably out of question...
so-
KROIL.
A little had to find, but works wonders.
If not that, PB Blaster (most parts stores)
WD 40 is WORTHLESS for this.


www.kanolabs.com manufactures and sells Kroil and their other products
direct from their website.

Jack

Good stuff, but there is better-
http://corrosionx.com/


Tell us, JoeTechnician, what proof do you have that Corrosion X is
better than Kroil? Or is it just another of your absurd opinions?

"basskisser" wrote in message
om...

Tell us, JoeTechnician, what proof do you have that Corrosion X is
better than Kroil? Or is it just another of your absurd opinions?


Aside from the first hand experience I have had with each, there are some
important physical properties of CorrosionX that make it superior to Kroil.
I will be more than happy to list these properties for you. I will however
only give you one at a time to see how well you process the information.
In the unlikely event you show *any* ability to comprehend I will follow up
with others.

Here it goes-

#1, CorrosionX is a dielectric lubricant/protectant, Kroil is not.