I didn't know about corrosion and the effects of different metals when I
added a wake board tower to my runabout 5 years ago.
The other night, a 5/8" stainless steel bolt failed at the point where it
threads into a solid aluminum mount. The bolt is corroded to the mounting
plate it penetrates. There's insufficient space behind it to knock it
through and not enough thread exposed to put a nut on it to pull it through.
I sprayed it with penetrating oil and banged on it to try to get the oil to
saturate the corrosion, but don't think it's going to work.
looks like I have to try drilling it out and using an extractor - something
I've never been able to do before.
The frustration grows because the mounts are all inside the gunwales with
barely enough space to get my fingers or wrench inside. I never thought I'd
have to touch the nuts after I got them installed.
So, the moral of the story is that I always use antisieze now, but didn't
know about it 5 years ago.
Any ideas on breaking the corrosion on this and other mounting bolts that
are sure to be equally corroded?

In this situation heat is probably out of question...
so-
KROIL.
A little had to find, but works wonders.
If not that, PB Blaster (most parts stores)
WD 40 is WORTHLESS for this.

Soak with Kroil or PB, rap with hammer, soak, repeat a bunch of times, good
luck

"William G. Andersen" wrote in message
news:LwPvc.38389$oi5.16111@fed1read07...
I didn't know about corrosion and the effects of different metals when I
added a wake board tower to my runabout 5 years ago.
The other night, a 5/8" stainless steel bolt failed at the point where it
threads into a solid aluminum mount. The bolt is corroded to the mounting
plate it penetrates. There's insufficient space behind it to knock it
through and not enough thread exposed to put a nut on it to pull it
through.
I sprayed it with penetrating oil and banged on it to try to get the oil
to
saturate the corrosion, but don't think it's going to work.
looks like I have to try drilling it out and using an extractor -
something
I've never been able to do before.
The frustration grows because the mounts are all inside the gunwales with
barely enough space to get my fingers or wrench inside. I never thought
I'd
have to touch the nuts after I got them installed.
So, the moral of the story is that I always use antisieze now, but didn't
know about it 5 years ago.
Any ideas on breaking the corrosion on this and other mounting bolts that
are sure to be equally corroded?

"bomar" wrote in message
...
In this situation heat is probably out of question...
so-
KROIL.
A little had to find, but works wonders.
If not that, PB Blaster (most parts stores)
WD 40 is WORTHLESS for this.


www.kanolabs.com manufactures and sells Kroil and their other products
direct from their website.

Jack

"Jack Goff" wrote in message
m...

"bomar" wrote in message
...
In this situation heat is probably out of question...
so-
KROIL.
A little had to find, but works wonders.
If not that, PB Blaster (most parts stores)
WD 40 is WORTHLESS for this.


www.kanolabs.com manufactures and sells Kroil and their other products
direct from their website.

Jack

And is the finest product of it's type on the market!

"Jack Goff" wrote in message
m...

"bomar" wrote in message
...
In this situation heat is probably out of question...
so-
KROIL.
A little had to find, but works wonders.
If not that, PB Blaster (most parts stores)
WD 40 is WORTHLESS for this.


www.kanolabs.com manufactures and sells Kroil and their other products
direct from their website.

Jack

Good stuff, but there is better-
http://corrosionx.com/

Also Sprach Joe :

"Jack Goff" wrote in message
m...

"bomar" wrote in message
...
In this situation heat is probably out of question...
so-
KROIL.
A little had to find, but works wonders.
If not that, PB Blaster (most parts stores)
WD 40 is WORTHLESS for this.


www.kanolabs.com manufactures and sells Kroil and their other products
direct from their website.

Jack

Good stuff, but there is better-
http://corrosionx.com/

Corrosion-X is a fine, but messy preventative, but a **** poor
penetrant. Kroil is a fine penenetrant, but there is one even
better. http//www.mousemilk.com/ Ask any experienced A&P mechanic.

Dan

--

"If not stopped, the 21 million-plus and growing (Napster & Gnutella)
community could usher in a cultural apocalypse that threatens to plunge
the world into darkness not seen since the turn of the last millennium."

-Richard Parsons, AOL-Time Warner executive

"Joe" wrote in message ...
"Jack Goff" wrote in message
m...

"bomar" wrote in message
...
In this situation heat is probably out of question...
so-
KROIL.
A little had to find, but works wonders.
If not that, PB Blaster (most parts stores)
WD 40 is WORTHLESS for this.


www.kanolabs.com manufactures and sells Kroil and their other products
direct from their website.

Jack

Good stuff, but there is better-
http://corrosionx.com/


Tell us, JoeTechnician, what proof do you have that Corrosion X is
better than Kroil? Or is it just another of your absurd opinions?

"basskisser" wrote in message
om...

Tell us, JoeTechnician, what proof do you have that Corrosion X is
better than Kroil? Or is it just another of your absurd opinions?


Aside from the first hand experience I have had with each, there are some
important physical properties of CorrosionX that make it superior to Kroil.
I will be more than happy to list these properties for you. I will however
only give you one at a time to see how well you process the information.
In the unlikely event you show *any* ability to comprehend I will follow up
with others.

Here it goes-

#1, CorrosionX is a dielectric lubricant/protectant, Kroil is not.