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#1
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Stern Drive Question
I'm fairly new to boating. I bought a 2000 18' Regal with a 4.3L Volvo in
August, along with a Volvo 2plus4 extended warranty. Its in the shop right now because the starter basically blew off the block a few weeks ago. The mechanics are telling me there are traces of water in the cylinders and that is what is causing the problem. I mentioned the engine had started dieseling (running on) whenever you shut it off, and they say this is what caused the problem. Apparently when an engine diesels the pistons go in reverse which sucks water in through the exhaust riser (not covered by the warranty). When I asked what cause the dieseling, they said probably bad gas (water in the gas). Talking to a car mechanic, he said the primary causes of dieseling are incorrect timing, of the carburetor being set too rich or lean. This hit me funny because this same dealership did a 50 hour tune up on the boat in November. I have maybe 20 - 40 hours on it since the tune up. Has anyone else experienced or heard of this? |
#2
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Stern Drive Question
In article , "John"
wrote: I'm fairly new to boating. I bought a 2000 18' Regal with a 4.3L Volvo in August, along with a Volvo 2plus4 extended warranty. Its in the shop right now because the starter basically blew off the block a few weeks ago. The mechanics are telling me there are traces of water in the cylinders and that is what is causing the problem. I mentioned the engine had started dieseling (running on) whenever you shut it off, and they say this is what caused the problem. Apparently when an engine diesels the pistons go in reverse which sucks water in through the exhaust riser (not covered by the warranty). When I asked what cause the dieseling, they said probably bad gas (water in the gas). Talking to a car mechanic, he said the primary causes of dieseling are incorrect timing, of the carburetor being set too rich or lean. This hit me funny because this same dealership did a 50 hour tune up on the boat in November. I have maybe 20 - 40 hours on it since the tune up. Has anyone else experienced or heard of this? John, I'm not sure how a rich or lean fuel mixture can cause dieseling, except too lean a mixture can cause an overheat. A severely overheated engine will diesel. Check out your cooling system. Bob Dimond |
#3
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Stern Drive Question
"John" wrote in message . com... I'm fairly new to boating. I bought a 2000 18' Regal with a 4.3L Volvo in August, along with a Volvo 2plus4 extended warranty. Its in the shop right now because the starter basically blew off the block a few weeks ago. The mechanics are telling me there are traces of water in the cylinders and that is what is causing the problem. I mentioned the engine had started dieseling (running on) whenever you shut it off, and they say this is what caused the problem. Apparently when an engine diesels the pistons go in reverse which sucks water in through the exhaust riser (not covered by the warranty). When I asked what cause the dieseling, they said probably bad gas (water in the gas). I doubt your dieseling is due to water in the fuel, but it can be caused by fuel with low octane . Other possible causes may be carbon buildup in the cylinders, too much ignition advance, a vacuum leak, or too high idle speed. |
#4
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Stern Drive Question
"John" wrote in message . com... Its in the shop right now because the starter basically blew off the block a few weeks ago. I am having a hard time picturing what happened. The starter ripped off the engine? The mechanics are telling me there are traces of water in the cylinders and that is what is causing the problem. Water in the cylinders would certainly make the starter work extra hard to overcome the added compression. Too much water and the engine "hydrolocks" and it can't be turned over at all. I would expect such a problem to cause the starter to burn out or struggle, not "blow off the block". If the starter came loose, then the bolts weren't tight enough! . Apparently when an engine diesels the pistons go in reverse which sucks water in through the exhaust riser (not covered by the warranty). That is a common form of "dieseling". It is also possible that engine continues to "diesel" in the normal rotation. A reverse direction of dieseling is very short duration as it can't continue to get a supply of gasoline to keep it going. If it does run backwards, however, it will definately suck water back up the exhaust. This is very, very bad! Cold water hitting hot exhaust valves and pistons can cause things to crack. Water left in the cylinders will make it harder (maybe even impossible) to start the next time. When I asked what cause the dieseling, they said probably bad gas (water in the gas). Not water in the gas. Too low of an ocatne gas yes. Check the owners manual on the engine and see what octane rating it requires. I wouldn't expect a 4.3 L to require high octane gas, but I could be surprised. Talking to a car mechanic, he said the primary causes of dieseling are incorrect timing, of the carburetor being set too rich or lean. Not too rich, but too lean for sure. I would be surprised, however, if your carburetor had an adjustment for the main jet mixture. An engine diesels because the temperature inside the cylinder is too hot. You can have this condition even if the engine isn't overheating. The timing being off is a good possibility. Another possibility is that a vacuum leak is causing the mixture to lean out. This hit me funny because this same dealership did a 50 hour tune up on the boat in November. I have maybe 20 - 40 hours on it since the tune up. Well, it may be too late now, but I would have taken the boat back to the dealer the first time it dieseled and make them fix it! To have an engine diesel after a tune up means that they did something wrong! If your dealer is trying to duck the issue and blame other things then I would find a new dealer! They could argue that water in the cylinders isn't covered, but I would argue back that the water got their because they screwed up the engine and caused it to diesel. Their fault. Rod McInnis |
#5
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Stern Drive Question
The two bolts holding the starter to the block actually snapped. There are
no traces of rust on either bolt. The hole to outer most edge of the block actually had a chunk of the block come off with it, that has to be welded back on. I do have some experience with older car engines and understand the basics of dieseling. The boat mechanic mentioned hydrolock, but at the time the engine wasn't locked. I carry a small tool kit onboard was able to turn the engine via all of the belt pulleys a full revolution with a small ratchet wrench. Idle speed per the tach was about 750-800 rpm. As far as the gas, I've only used Citgo 89 octane, all from the same station right near where I launch. The owners manual does specify a minimum of 89 octane. After the engine shut down, even after dieseling, I never had any problem starting it, and it didn't diesel every time it shut down which if it was bad gas I assume it would. I do think the are trying to place the blame on the gas which would make it a non warranty issue. I also know once this is resolved I will find another Volvo/Penta repair facility to take it to "Rod McInnis" wrote in message ... "John" wrote in message . com... Its in the shop right now because the starter basically blew off the block a few weeks ago. I am having a hard time picturing what happened. The starter ripped off the engine? The mechanics are telling me there are traces of water in the cylinders and that is what is causing the problem. Water in the cylinders would certainly make the starter work extra hard to overcome the added compression. Too much water and the engine "hydrolocks" and it can't be turned over at all. I would expect such a problem to cause the starter to burn out or struggle, not "blow off the block". If the starter came loose, then the bolts weren't tight enough! . Apparently when an engine diesels the pistons go in reverse which sucks water in through the exhaust riser (not covered by the warranty). That is a common form of "dieseling". It is also possible that engine continues to "diesel" in the normal rotation. A reverse direction of dieseling is very short duration as it can't continue to get a supply of gasoline to keep it going. If it does run backwards, however, it will definately suck water back up the exhaust. This is very, very bad! Cold water hitting hot exhaust valves and pistons can cause things to crack. Water left in the cylinders will make it harder (maybe even impossible) to start the next time. When I asked what cause the dieseling, they said probably bad gas (water in the gas). Not water in the gas. Too low of an ocatne gas yes. Check the owners manual on the engine and see what octane rating it requires. I wouldn't expect a 4.3 L to require high octane gas, but I could be surprised. Talking to a car mechanic, he said the primary causes of dieseling are incorrect timing, of the carburetor being set too rich or lean. Not too rich, but too lean for sure. I would be surprised, however, if your carburetor had an adjustment for the main jet mixture. An engine diesels because the temperature inside the cylinder is too hot. You can have this condition even if the engine isn't overheating. The timing being off is a good possibility. Another possibility is that a vacuum leak is causing the mixture to lean out. This hit me funny because this same dealership did a 50 hour tune up on the boat in November. I have maybe 20 - 40 hours on it since the tune up. Well, it may be too late now, but I would have taken the boat back to the dealer the first time it dieseled and make them fix it! To have an engine diesel after a tune up means that they did something wrong! If your dealer is trying to duck the issue and blame other things then I would find a new dealer! They could argue that water in the cylinders isn't covered, but I would argue back that the water got their because they screwed up the engine and caused it to diesel. Their fault. Rod McInnis |
#6
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Stern Drive Question
FWIW,
I have the same engine and it started to diesel on a trip to Lake Mojave after always running perfectly. There had been no recent work done on the engine and I was pretty sure the gas was OK. Well, dummy me was not paying attention to the temp gauge. When I finally looked down at the gauge, it was way in the red. At the time I was idling in an inlet waiting for my wife to back the trailer down the ramp. So I shut it down until my wife arrived and started it long enough to get the boat on the trailer. I pulled the raw water pump apart and sure enough about the half the vanes had come off the impeller. Replaced the impeller (made sure to remove the T-stat housing and hunted down all of the little pieces, I hope). The next day and thereafter, it ran perfectly. I guess I was lucky. No sign of ill effects, such as warped head or other parts, cracked stuff, etc. Moral of the story: If it diesels, check your temp and then check your raw water pump; its real easy on a Volvo (engine mounted) and always carry a spare impeller(I was lucky to find one where I was; if anyone needs a Volvo raw water impeller in or around Bullhead City Arizona, check with Jake's Marine, up the hill past the turn-off to Katherine's landing). About the only smart thing I did that trip was to buy two impellers so I now have a spare. BTW, anyone know the easiest, least expensive install for a temp alarm on this engine? "John" wrote in om: The two bolts holding the starter to the block actually snapped. There are no traces of rust on either bolt. The hole to outer most edge of the block actually had a chunk of the block come off with it, that has to be welded back on. I do have some experience with older car engines and understand the basics of dieseling. The boat mechanic mentioned hydrolock, but at the time the engine wasn't locked. I carry a small tool kit onboard was able to turn the engine via all of the belt pulleys a full revolution with a small ratchet wrench. Idle speed per the tach was about 750-800 rpm. As far as the gas, I've only used Citgo 89 octane, all from the same station right near where I launch. The owners manual does specify a minimum of 89 octane. After the engine shut down, even after dieseling, I never had any problem starting it, and it didn't diesel every time it shut down which if it was bad gas I assume it would. I do think the are trying to place the blame on the gas which would make it a non warranty issue. I also know once this is resolved I will find another Volvo/Penta repair facility to take it to "Rod McInnis" wrote in message ... "John" wrote in message . com... Its in the shop right now because the starter basically blew off the block a few weeks ago. I am having a hard time picturing what happened. The starter ripped off the engine? The mechanics are telling me there are traces of water in the cylinders and that is what is causing the problem. Water in the cylinders would certainly make the starter work extra hard to overcome the added compression. Too much water and the engine "hydrolocks" and it can't be turned over at all. I would expect such a problem to cause the starter to burn out or struggle, not "blow off the block". If the starter came loose, then the bolts weren't tight enough! . Apparently when an engine diesels the pistons go in reverse which sucks water in through the exhaust riser (not covered by the warranty). That is a common form of "dieseling". It is also possible that engine continues to "diesel" in the normal rotation. A reverse direction of dieseling is very short duration as it can't continue to get a supply of gasoline to keep it going. If it does run backwards, however, it will definately suck water back up the exhaust. This is very, very bad! Cold water hitting hot exhaust valves and pistons can cause things to crack. Water left in the cylinders will make it harder (maybe even impossible) to start the next time. When I asked what cause the dieseling, they said probably bad gas (water in the gas). Not water in the gas. Too low of an ocatne gas yes. Check the owners manual on the engine and see what octane rating it requires. I wouldn't expect a 4.3 L to require high octane gas, but I could be surprised. Talking to a car mechanic, he said the primary causes of dieseling are incorrect timing, of the carburetor being set too rich or lean. Not too rich, but too lean for sure. I would be surprised, however, if your carburetor had an adjustment for the main jet mixture. An engine diesels because the temperature inside the cylinder is too hot. You can have this condition even if the engine isn't overheating. The timing being off is a good possibility. Another possibility is that a vacuum leak is causing the mixture to lean out. This hit me funny because this same dealership did a 50 hour tune up on the boat in November. I have maybe 20 - 40 hours on it since the tune up. Well, it may be too late now, but I would have taken the boat back to the dealer the first time it dieseled and make them fix it! To have an engine diesel after a tune up means that they did something wrong! If your dealer is trying to duck the issue and blame other things then I would find a new dealer! They could argue that water in the cylinders isn't covered, but I would argue back that the water got their because they screwed up the engine and caused it to diesel. Their fault. Rod McInnis |
#7
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Stern Drive Question
"akheel" wrote in message ... FWIW, I have the same engine and it started to diesel on a trip to Lake Mojave after always running perfectly. There had been no recent work done on the engine and I was pretty sure the gas was OK. Well, dummy me was not paying attention to the temp gauge. When I finally looked down at the gauge, it was way in the red. At the time I was idling in an inlet waiting for my wife to back the trailer down the ramp. So I shut it down until my wife arrived and started it long enough to get the boat on the trailer. I pulled the raw water pump apart and sure enough about the half the vanes had come off the impeller. Replaced the impeller (made sure to remove the T-stat housing and hunted down all of the little pieces, I hope). The next day and thereafter, it ran perfectly. I guess I was lucky. No sign of ill effects, such as warped head or other parts, cracked stuff, etc. Moral of the story: If it diesels, check your temp and then check your raw water pump; its real easy on a Volvo (engine mounted) and always carry a spare impeller(I was lucky to find one where I was; if anyone needs a Volvo raw water impeller in or around Bullhead City Arizona, check with Jake's Marine, up the hill past the turn-off to Katherine's landing). About the only smart thing I did that trip was to buy two impellers so I now have a spare. BTW, anyone know the easiest, least expensive install for a temp alarm on this engine? "John" wrote in om: The two bolts holding the starter to the block actually snapped. There are no traces of rust on either bolt. The hole to outer most edge of the block actually had a chunk of the block come off with it, that has to be welded back on. I do have some experience with older car engines and understand the basics of dieseling. The boat mechanic mentioned hydrolock, but at the time the engine wasn't locked. I carry a small tool kit onboard was able to turn the engine via all of the belt pulleys a full revolution with a small ratchet wrench. Idle speed per the tach was about 750-800 rpm. As far as the gas, I've only used Citgo 89 octane, all from the same station right near where I launch. The owners manual does specify a minimum of 89 octane. After the engine shut down, even after dieseling, I never had any problem starting it, and it didn't diesel every time it shut down which if it was bad gas I assume it would. I do think the are trying to place the blame on the gas which would make it a non warranty issue. I also know once this is resolved I will find another Volvo/Penta repair facility to take it to "Rod McInnis" wrote in message ... "John" wrote in message . com... Its in the shop right now because the starter basically blew off the block a few weeks ago. I am having a hard time picturing what happened. The starter ripped off the engine? The mechanics are telling me there are traces of water in the cylinders and that is what is causing the problem. Water in the cylinders would certainly make the starter work extra hard to overcome the added compression. Too much water and the engine "hydrolocks" and it can't be turned over at all. I would expect such a problem to cause the starter to burn out or struggle, not "blow off the block". If the starter came loose, then the bolts weren't tight enough! . Apparently when an engine diesels the pistons go in reverse which sucks water in through the exhaust riser (not covered by the warranty). That is a common form of "dieseling". It is also possible that engine continues to "diesel" in the normal rotation. A reverse direction of dieseling is very short duration as it can't continue to get a supply of gasoline to keep it going. If it does run backwards, however, it will definately suck water back up the exhaust. This is very, very bad! Cold water hitting hot exhaust valves and pistons can cause things to crack. Water left in the cylinders will make it harder (maybe even impossible) to start the next time. When I asked what cause the dieseling, they said probably bad gas (water in the gas). Not water in the gas. Too low of an ocatne gas yes. Check the owners manual on the engine and see what octane rating it requires. I wouldn't expect a 4.3 L to require high octane gas, but I could be surprised. Talking to a car mechanic, he said the primary causes of dieseling are incorrect timing, of the carburetor being set too rich or lean. Not too rich, but too lean for sure. I would be surprised, however, if your carburetor had an adjustment for the main jet mixture. An engine diesels because the temperature inside the cylinder is too hot. You can have this condition even if the engine isn't overheating. The timing being off is a good possibility. Another possibility is that a vacuum leak is causing the mixture to lean out. This hit me funny because this same dealership did a 50 hour tune up on the boat in November. I have maybe 20 - 40 hours on it since the tune up. Well, it may be too late now, but I would have taken the boat back to the dealer the first time it dieseled and make them fix it! To have an engine diesel after a tune up means that they did something wrong! If your dealer is trying to duck the issue and blame other things then I would find a new dealer! They could argue that water in the cylinders isn't covered, but I would argue back that the water got their because they screwed up the engine and caused it to diesel. Their fault. Rod McInnis West Marine sells a temp alarm kit. Or make your own, with a overtemp idiot light sender from any autoparts store and a light and alarm. Bill |
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