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#11
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B-W Velvet Drive clunking
On Sat, 14 Feb 2004 21:12:53 GMT, Jim Kelly wrote:
Yes, the transmission is bolted to a bell housing on the engine so that it sits at the same angle as the engine. The prop shaft also assumes this angle since it is direct coupled to the transmission. This is what is referred to as a "straight inboard". On many newer boats of this size, the engine is mounted backward with the front of the engine close to the transom. A V-drive is then used to connect the engine to the prop shaft. On this type of installation, the engine is not angled as in the straight application since the prop shaft angle is accommodated by the angled "V" drive design. Hah!! See, learn something new every day. Thanks for the info Jim. Later, Tom S. Woodstock, CT ---------- "Fisherman are born honest, but they get over it." - Ed Zern |
#12
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B-W Velvet Drive clunking
Anytime, Tom.
One other source of a clunk would be the dampener. This is a metal plate with a splined hub in the center. The plate bolts to the flywheel and the transmission input shaft slides into the hub. The dampener contains springs which absorb torsional vibration. If the springs are damaged or if the bolts are loose, you may get a clunk. Short Wave Sportfishing wrote: On Sat, 14 Feb 2004 21:12:53 GMT, Jim Kelly wrote: Yes, the transmission is bolted to a bell housing on the engine so that it sits at the same angle as the engine. The prop shaft also assumes this angle since it is direct coupled to the transmission. This is what is referred to as a "straight inboard". On many newer boats of this size, the engine is mounted backward with the front of the engine close to the transom. A V-drive is then used to connect the engine to the prop shaft. On this type of installation, the engine is not angled as in the straight application since the prop shaft angle is accommodated by the angled "V" drive design. Hah!! See, learn something new every day. Thanks for the info Jim. Later, Tom S. Woodstock, CT ---------- "Fisherman are born honest, but they get over it." - Ed Zern |
#13
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B-W Velvet Drive clunking
Thanks, WaIIy, I like your answer the best of all, so far! It's certainly
the easiest! ==== Charles T. Low - remove "UN" www.boatdocking.com/BDPhoto.html - Photo Contest www.boatdocking.com www.ctlow.ca/Trojan26 - my boat ==== "WaIIy" wrote in message ... I have two 1989 BG Velvet Drives in the "V" configuration. They "clunk" although it is a very light clunk, much as you describe. No problems so far. |
#14
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B-W Velvet Drive clunking
Jim,
Your several message in this thread so far are much appreciated. I'm not exactly visualizing everything just yet, but then I have no idea what these things look like inside. (How do you?) Spool valves, pumps, relief valves, heat exchangers, front adapter, clutches and reverse clutches, hydraulic circuits - but I do find it all very intriguing! Testing pressure - as in screw a manometer of some type into the 3/8 plug hole? A manometer of _what_ type? Prob'y easier to ask mechanic to do it for me. When I had a new shaft made a few seasons back, it was built twice (at a machine shop) because mechanic wasn't happy with tolerances first time. Finally got it to 4/1000, I think, and then 7/1000 installed but this was out of the water. Mechanic said that was a little over tolerance, but that it all slid together so effortlessly that he considered that a very good sign, and opined that fiddling with it further would probably not be advantageous. Sort of "the enemy of 'good' is 'perfect'" philosophy. Anyway, it seems fine - there was minimal perceptible vibration with the original shaft, same now. I've had my hand on the stuffing box while someone else piloted the boat, up on plane (16 knots - whee!!!), and it's as smooth as silk (if that means anything). Thanks again. ==== Charles T. Low - remove "UN" www.boatdocking.com/BDPhoto.html - Photo Contest www.boatdocking.com www.ctlow.ca/Trojan26 - my boat ==== "Jim Kelly" wrote in message ... ... When you move the selector to forward or reverse, the spool valve directs the fluid to the proper clutch. There should be at least 120 PSI present at the spool valve in all selector positions. The internal pump is actually capable of much higher pressure but it is regulated by a relief valve built into the end of the spool valve. The relief valve directs fluid to the heat exchanger. There are test ports for checking the pressure. Remove the 3/8 plug on the top of the case next to the port leading out to the heat exchanger. Warm and idling you should read at least 120 PSI in all selector positions. To check reverse pressure, there is a smaller plug either next to the 3/8 plug or on the front adapter on the top of the case depending on the vintage (some models have both plugs in which case you can use either). Warm and idling in reverse, you should again read a minimum of 120 PSI. This verifies that the reverse clutches in the front of the transmission are receiving full apply pressure. There is no separate test port for forward apply pressure since the hydraulic circuit for forward is through the center of the shafts and not the case as it is in reverse. If you have the specified pressure at the 3/8 test port while in forward, it is pretty safe to assume that the forward clutches are receiving full apply pressure due to the design of the circuit. |
#15
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B-W Velvet Drive clunking
Tom,
As others have already explained, this is a straight-shaft inboard setup, pretty standard, I think, and it is not horizontal. You can see a photo at www.ctlow.ca/Trojan26/Rudder2001.JPG, from my Ksenia page (address below). No U-joints, and no "shock absorbers" - the shock is absorbed by the water! I think it would be more efficient if it were horizontal, and on some displacement hulls (a few) it is, but on a planing hull I think it just has to angle down. Building a casing below the hull to contain a CV joint which would then allow the shaft to run horizontally would not be "hydrodynamically" efficient either, I don't think - might as well have an I/O - pros and cons! I do depend heavily on trim tabs to maintain attitude when on plane. ("Slow" plane, which is all this boat does!) The cutlass bearing referred to elsewhere is in the housing at the bottom of the strut in the photo referred to above. The prop shaft is stabilized by it and by the passage through the hull and then at the transmission. Apparently very long shafts require extra supports, but for most of us that's a typical arrangement. If the shaft were misaligned with the tranny, or just not straight enough, then that would cause vibration and premature wear of all sorts of things (I guess), but not the behaviour I'm describing. At least, not directly. I have, by the way, checked the prop, by hand, but it seems absolutely solid. ==== Charles T. Low - remove "UN" www.boatdocking.com/BDPhoto.html - Photo Contest www.boatdocking.com www.ctlow.ca/Trojan26 - my boat ==== "Short Wave Sportfishing" wrote in message ... It just occured to me - does the drive train have U-joints? If so, then that's the most likely cluprit. Good luck. Later, Tom S. Woodstock, CT |
#16
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B-W Velvet Drive clunking
On Sun, 15 Feb 2004 16:53:37 -0500, "Charles T. Low"
wrote: Tom, As others have already explained, this is a straight-shaft inboard setup, pretty standard, I think, and it is not horizontal. You can see a photo at www.ctlow.ca/Trojan26/Rudder2001.JPG, from my Ksenia page (address below). No U-joints, and no "shock absorbers" - the shock is absorbed by the water! Twelve boats in my life, all outboards. I'm seriously thinking about converting the '68 Chris*Craft Corsair to an outboard - I did rebuild a "stringer" type drive and I have two Buick V-6s, one of which has been rebuilt, but I'm not at all comfortable with that setup. All of which has nothing to do with your drive system. :) Well, as long as you are happy with it, that's all that's necessary. Good luck. Later, Tom S. Woodstock, CT ---------- "Fisherman are born honest, but they get over it." - Ed Zern |
#17
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B-W Velvet Drive clunking
Charles,
Velvet Drives are relatively simple transmissions. I have rebuilt several. The parts are readily available and comparatively inexpensive. The only special tool required is a snap ring pliers for Eaton type rings. These rings have no holes in them so standard snap ring pliers won't work. The coupling nut will have to be removed and installed with an impact wrench but, if you do not have one, you can get this done at any automotive repair shop. A good source for rebuild kits and parts is Transmission Marine in Ft. Lauderdale. Anyone with average mechanical skills should be capable of rebuilding these units. A simple dial type pressure gauge can be used for checking the pressures. It should have a range of at least 160 psi. You can buy one from industrial supply houses like Grangier for less than $10. "Charles T. Low" wrote: Jim, Your several message in this thread so far are much appreciated. I'm not exactly visualizing everything just yet, but then I have no idea what these things look like inside. (How do you?) Spool valves, pumps, relief valves, heat exchangers, front adapter, clutches and reverse clutches, hydraulic circuits - but I do find it all very intriguing! Testing pressure - as in screw a manometer of some type into the 3/8 plug hole? A manometer of _what_ type? Prob'y easier to ask mechanic to do it for me. When I had a new shaft made a few seasons back, it was built twice (at a machine shop) because mechanic wasn't happy with tolerances first time. Finally got it to 4/1000, I think, and then 7/1000 installed but this was out of the water. Mechanic said that was a little over tolerance, but that it all slid together so effortlessly that he considered that a very good sign, and opined that fiddling with it further would probably not be advantageous. Sort of "the enemy of 'good' is 'perfect'" philosophy. Anyway, it seems fine - there was minimal perceptible vibration with the original shaft, same now. I've had my hand on the stuffing box while someone else piloted the boat, up on plane (16 knots - whee!!!), and it's as smooth as silk (if that means anything). Thanks again. ==== Charles T. Low - remove "UN" www.boatdocking.com/BDPhoto.html - Photo Contest www.boatdocking.com www.ctlow.ca/Trojan26 - my boat ==== "Jim Kelly" wrote in message ... ... When you move the selector to forward or reverse, the spool valve directs the fluid to the proper clutch. There should be at least 120 PSI present at the spool valve in all selector positions. The internal pump is actually capable of much higher pressure but it is regulated by a relief valve built into the end of the spool valve. The relief valve directs fluid to the heat exchanger. There are test ports for checking the pressure. Remove the 3/8 plug on the top of the case next to the port leading out to the heat exchanger. Warm and idling you should read at least 120 PSI in all selector positions. To check reverse pressure, there is a smaller plug either next to the 3/8 plug or on the front adapter on the top of the case depending on the vintage (some models have both plugs in which case you can use either). Warm and idling in reverse, you should again read a minimum of 120 PSI. This verifies that the reverse clutches in the front of the transmission are receiving full apply pressure. There is no separate test port for forward apply pressure since the hydraulic circuit for forward is through the center of the shafts and not the case as it is in reverse. If you have the specified pressure at the 3/8 test port while in forward, it is pretty safe to assume that the forward clutches are receiving full apply pressure due to the design of the circuit. |
#18
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B-W Velvet Drive clunking
"Charles T. Low" wrote in message ...
I've had my 1978 Trojan 26 for three seasons now, and can't for the life of me decide for sure whether the transmission has always done this or not. My mechanic thinks it's OK. The AT lubricant is full and looks crystal clear to the naked eye, and I do change it (rarely). It's a Borg-Warner Velvet Drive, original with the boat, to my knowledge. When put into gear, there is a slight pause, a fraction of a second only, but easily visible that the prop tranny/shaft does not start turning immediately - then it catches and away it goes. (Idling just above 600 rpm indicated.) It does so with a very soft audible clunk, and I seem to remember it being noiseless when "new" (to me). I have shifted it into gear at above idle speed, very infrequently, count on one hand, etc., because I'm kind of clumsy. Other than that, I can't think of anything that might be considered abusive. It is still so much smoother than the Bravo II I/O I used to own, which itself was so much smoother than the Alpha 1 before that. Passengers have never noticed or commented - it's quite a subtle clunk. I think I may just be listening too hard. What is normal behaviour for these transmissions? Thanks. ==== Charles T. Low - remove "UN" www.boatdocking.com/BDPhoto.html - Photo Contest www.boatdocking.com www.ctlow.ca/Trojan26 - my boat ==== It's your low idle speed that's causing the noise, BW's make noise at low RPM's. Your idle should be up around 700 to 750 RPM's. Your hearing either back lash, or the clutch pack. Crank the idle back up where it belongs before you really damage the gears. |
#19
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B-W Velvet Drive clunking
"Charles T. Low" wrote in message . .. When put into gear, there is a slight pause, a fraction of a second only, but easily visible that the prop tranny/shaft does not start turning immediately - then it catches and away it goes. (Idling just above 600 rpm indicated.) It does so with a very soft audible clunk, and I seem to remember it being noiseless when "new" (to me). Sounds like normal operation to me! The transmission operates on hydraulic pressure. When you put it "in gear", you are moving a valve that routes the output of the oil pump (operated off the input shaft) so that the clutch plates get "squeezed". As with any clutch, it is designed to engage smoothly, so that the clutch plates slip just a bit before grabbing hold. When the clutch plates are new the motion required by the diaphragm would be much less then when it has worn some. Add in an oil pump that may have lost a little bit of idle speed pressure and it might take slightly longer for the clutch to operate. I wouldn't worry about the delay or the clunk. If you are concerned about the transmission, pay attention to how it works under heavy load (acceleration). If you ever detect any amount of slip, schedule a rebuild ASAP. Rod |
#20
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B-W Velvet Drive clunking
posible that the flexplate is worn or broken. similar to a clutch disc on a
manual transmission, it has springs arranged in a circle that if broken or lost strength might give an extra clunky sound. It is what couples the engine crankshaft to the velvet drive input shaft. This is separate, not a part of the transmission. My own velvet drives are fairly quiet. And the fractional second delay is normal. "Rod McInnis" wrote in message ... "Charles T. Low" wrote in message . .. When put into gear, there is a slight pause, a fraction of a second only, but easily visible that the prop tranny/shaft does not start turning immediately - then it catches and away it goes. (Idling just above 600 rpm indicated.) It does so with a very soft audible clunk, and I seem to remember it being noiseless when "new" (to me). Sounds like normal operation to me! The transmission operates on hydraulic pressure. When you put it "in gear", you are moving a valve that routes the output of the oil pump (operated off the input shaft) so that the clutch plates get "squeezed". As with any clutch, it is designed to engage smoothly, so that the clutch plates slip just a bit before grabbing hold. When the clutch plates are new the motion required by the diaphragm would be much less then when it has worn some. Add in an oil pump that may have lost a little bit of idle speed pressure and it might take slightly longer for the clutch to operate. I wouldn't worry about the delay or the clunk. If you are concerned about the transmission, pay attention to how it works under heavy load (acceleration). If you ever detect any amount of slip, schedule a rebuild ASAP. Rod |
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