On Sat, 17 May 2014 07:59:22 -0400, "Mr. Luddite"
wrote:

On 5/17/2014 7:11 AM, True North wrote:
Jimmy boy... over the last two seasons I've used the boat 80 percent of the time in salt or brackish water.
I don't expect that to change much.
I have the wrong boat and have to figure how to get into a similar fiberglass version without draining my somewhat limited resources.



There are many aluminum boats that survive salt water use. The USCG uses
them.

They just have to be designed properly using proper materials and
anti-corrosion precautions.

===

That is correct. There are many aluminum boats in Alaska and the
Pacific North West. They are renowned for their toughness and
relative light weight. I used to sail offshore on a number of
aluminum racing sail boats. It is important however that stainless
fasteners and fittings be properly bedded, and that the right type of
sacrificial anodes are used.

Don, since your issue seems to be primarily cosmetic at this point,
I'd try to remediate the problem as best you can, ignore the rest, and
continue to enjoy your boat. The fish don't care about that shiny new
look.

On 5/17/2014 8:30 AM, Wayne.B wrote:
On Sat, 17 May 2014 07:59:22 -0400, "Mr. Luddite"
wrote:

On 5/17/2014 7:11 AM, True North wrote:
Jimmy boy... over the last two seasons I've used the boat 80 percent of the time in salt or brackish water.
I don't expect that to change much.
I have the wrong boat and have to figure how to get into a similar fiberglass version without draining my somewhat limited resources.



There are many aluminum boats that survive salt water use. The USCG uses
them.

They just have to be designed properly using proper materials and
anti-corrosion precautions.

===

That is correct. There are many aluminum boats in Alaska and the
Pacific North West. They are renowned for their toughness and
relative light weight. I used to sail offshore on a number of
aluminum racing sail boats. It is important however that stainless
fasteners and fittings be properly bedded, and that the right type of
sacrificial anodes are used.

Don, since your issue seems to be primarily cosmetic at this point,
I'd try to remediate the problem as best you can, ignore the rest, and
continue to enjoy your boat. The fish don't care about that shiny new
look.

He could make a decent repair by removing the snaps, filling and fairing
the holes and covering the repairs with a nice vinyl bootstripe. He
will. of course need to find a different method of tying down his cover.

On Sat, 17 May 2014 08:43:17 -0400, H*a*r*r*o*l*d
wrote:

On 5/17/2014 8:30 AM, Wayne.B wrote:
On Sat, 17 May 2014 07:59:22 -0400, "Mr. Luddite"
wrote:

On 5/17/2014 7:11 AM, True North wrote:
Jimmy boy... over the last two seasons I've used the boat 80 percent of the time in salt or brackish water.
I don't expect that to change much.
I have the wrong boat and have to figure how to get into a similar fiberglass version without draining my somewhat limited resources.



There are many aluminum boats that survive salt water use. The USCG uses
them.

They just have to be designed properly using proper materials and
anti-corrosion precautions.

===

That is correct. There are many aluminum boats in Alaska and the
Pacific North West. They are renowned for their toughness and
relative light weight. I used to sail offshore on a number of
aluminum racing sail boats. It is important however that stainless
fasteners and fittings be properly bedded, and that the right type of
sacrificial anodes are used.

Don, since your issue seems to be primarily cosmetic at this point,
I'd try to remediate the problem as best you can, ignore the rest, and
continue to enjoy your boat. The fish don't care about that shiny new
look.

He could make a decent repair by removing the snaps, filling and fairing
the holes and covering the repairs with a nice vinyl bootstripe. He
will. of course need to find a different method of tying down his cover.

===

You make an interesting point with the vinyl stripe. That would not
only look good but could also provide an insulating layer for properly
installed stainless snaps, in conjunction with the right bedding
compound. The new snaps don't have to be in the same spot as the old,
just requires moving the snap locations on the cover. The dealer
might even be willing to help with a plan like that.

It isn't just the "mooring" cover that uses the snaps but also the stand up canvas with back and side panels that supposedly allow you to travel at speed in shade or in dry warm comfort in bad weather.

On 5/17/2014 9:28 AM, True North wrote:
It isn't just the "mooring" cover that uses the snaps but also the stand up canvas with back and side panels that supposedly allow you to travel at speed in shade or in dry warm comfort in bad weather.

Try plastic snaps.

Wayne, you do have point.
Instead of taking a hit trading in a 2 year old boat, I already have the primer, official can of the factory paint and just picked up the Makita Gold impact bits rated as much stronger than the ordinary bits I broke last fall with my hand rachting screwdriver.
Maybe with my half inch corded drill/driver, I can get most of the snaps off without drilling out the ss screw heads.
Thenthe only worry might be what's going on in the bilge if sal****er gets in there.
I do stick the garden hose in and flush, and crank the tongue jack up to drain off.

On 5/17/2014 10:16 AM, True North wrote:
Wayne, you do have point.
Instead of taking a hit trading in a 2 year old boat, I already have the primer, official can of the factory paint and just picked up the Makita Gold impact bits rated as much stronger than the ordinary bits I broke last fall with my hand rachting screwdriver.
Maybe with my half inch corded drill/driver, I can get most of the snaps off without drilling out the ss screw heads.
Thenthe only worry might be what's going on in the bilge if sal****er gets in there.
I do stick the garden hose in and flush, and crank the tongue jack up to drain off.

Another tool you might consider is a hand impact tool and/or a set of
small left handed drill bits. Once you booger up the cross point screw
head your only recourse is drilling or grinding the screw flush.
The alternative is to take the Harry route and let the pros do it.

On Sat, 17 May 2014 07:16:52 -0700 (PDT), True North
wrote:

Wayne, you do have point.
Instead of taking a hit trading in a 2 year old boat, I already have the primer, official can of the factory paint and just picked up the Makita Gold impact bits rated as much stronger than the ordinary bits I broke last fall with my hand rachting screwdriver.
Maybe with my half inch corded drill/driver, I can get most of the snaps off without drilling out the ss screw heads.
Thenthe only worry might be what's going on in the bilge if sal****er gets in there.
I do stick the garden hose in and flush, and crank the tongue jack up to drain off.

===

The bilge should be OK as long as the builder didn't use any SS
fasteners, and that would be very unusual. If you keep it clean and
dry, and do not let copper of any kind get in the bilge, it should be
fine. The skipper of one of the aluminum boats that I used to race
on was absolutely fanatical about that. He made everyone dump the
change out of their pockets before coming aboard to prevent the chance
of someone accidently dropping a copper penny.

On 5/17/14, 8:02 AM, Wayne.B wrote:
On Sat, 17 May 2014 07:16:52 -0700 (PDT), True North
wrote:

Wayne, you do have point.
Instead of taking a hit trading in a 2 year old boat, I already have the primer, official can of the factory paint and just picked up the Makita Gold impact bits rated as much stronger than the ordinary bits I broke last fall with my hand rachting screwdriver.
Maybe with my half inch corded drill/driver, I can get most of the snaps off without drilling out the ss screw heads.
Thenthe only worry might be what's going on in the bilge if sal****er gets in there.
I do stick the garden hose in and flush, and crank the tongue jack up to drain off.

===

The bilge should be OK as long as the builder didn't use any SS
fasteners, and that would be very unusual. If you keep it clean and
dry, and do not let copper of any kind get in the bilge, it should be
fine. The skipper of one of the aluminum boats that I used to race
on was absolutely fanatical about that. He made everyone dump the
change out of their pockets before coming aboard to prevent the chance
of someone accidently dropping a copper penny.

a little anal, but my only corrosion hole in the bottom, was because a
piece of copper wire got lodged in the junk in the bottom of the anchor
locker. When we welded up the hole, I made bigger limber holes to allow
less dirt collection at the cross braces. And my boat is a lot sturdier
boat than Don's. 3/16 aluminum and is 5061, which is an aluminum that
handles salt water well.

True North wrote:
Wayne, you do have point.
Instead of taking a hit trading in a 2 year old boat, I already have the primer, official can of the factory paint and just picked up the Makita Gold impact bits rated as much stronger than the ordinary bits I broke last fall with my hand rachting screwdriver.
Maybe with my half inch corded drill/driver, I can get most of the snaps off without drilling out the ss screw heads.
Thenthe only worry might be what's going on in the bilge if sal****er gets in there.
I do stick the garden hose in and flush, and crank the tongue jack up to drain off.


Imagine how bad it would be if you used it more? I hope you spray the
whole boat with fresh eater after each run. I take my aluminum boat
into into the sal****er for bay fishing and I hose it down completely.
It does have anodes and is rated for sal****er use.