On Sun, 30 Dec 2012 10:44:22 -0500, "Eisboch" wrote:

True, but the material the heli-coil is installed in isn't any
stronger. A heli-coil is great for replacing stripped out threads
that need to be drilled out but it doesn't make anything any stronger.

===

I'm assuming you must have to pull the head to avoid getting drilling
chips inside the cylinder?

In article ,
says...

On Sun, 30 Dec 2012 10:44:22 -0500, "Eisboch" wrote:

True, but the material the heli-coil is installed in isn't any
stronger. A heli-coil is great for replacing stripped out threads
that need to be drilled out but it doesn't make anything any stronger.

===

I'm assuming you must have to pull the head to avoid getting drilling
chips inside the cylinder?

Oops!

On 12/30/2012 11:32 AM, BAR wrote:
In article ,
says...

On Sun, 30 Dec 2012 10:44:22 -0500, "Eisboch" wrote:

True, but the material the heli-coil is installed in isn't any
stronger. A heli-coil is great for replacing stripped out threads
that need to be drilled out but it doesn't make anything any stronger.

===

I'm assuming you must have to pull the head to avoid getting drilling
chips inside the cylinder?

I would imagine if you are doing the head.. Sorry, I misread. The fix I
am talking about is the oil drain plug down in the aluminum case.

Oops!

On 12/30/2012 11:11 AM, Wayne.B wrote:
On Sun, 30 Dec 2012 10:44:22 -0500, "Eisboch" wrote:

True, but the material the heli-coil is installed in isn't any
stronger. A heli-coil is great for replacing stripped out threads
that need to be drilled out but it doesn't make anything any stronger.

Well, I still suggest a 3/4" helicoil in an aluminum head, holds better
than a similar threaded 3/8", having a lot more thread area. So in the
case of a spark plug for instance, I do suggest that a spark plug in an
aluminum head will hold better in a helicoil... IN THEORY!


===

I'm assuming you must have to pull the head to avoid getting drilling
chips inside the cylinder?


In a fix, our motor shop will drain the engine and inject a few
tablespoons of very heavy grease just inside the hole. Then they drill
upward and vacuum the grease and any chips away, followed by a solvent
flush and oil... They can do this with the engine still on the bike in
most cases for an oil plug which is the most common heli repair in our
industry. Anything structural, we would not use a helicoil at all.

In article ,
says...

On Sun, 30 Dec 2012 11:33:37 -0500, JustWait
wrote:

Anything structural, we would not use a helicoil at all.

I used a Helicoil for a crank cap on a Vega motor (in my Monza). I put
50,000 miles on it after that, no problems.

Absolutely. If a helicoil can stand up to 10:1 compression ratios or
greater, it can stand up to about anything "structural". I'll bet the
coil insert is about as good capacity wise as the tensile strength of
the bolt it's holding.

On 12/30/2012 2:41 PM, wrote:
On Sun, 30 Dec 2012 11:33:37 -0500, JustWait
wrote:

Anything structural, we would not use a helicoil at all.

I used a Helicoil for a crank cap on a Vega motor (in my Monza). I put
50,000 miles on it after that, no problems.


As would I... I have used it for sparkplugs etc too. What I meant was
for instance once we stripped a 160 dollar steering part, wouldn't think
of putting a helicoil in there. When I was typing I was thinking of
suspension parts, steering, etc..

On 12/30/2012 2:41 PM, wrote:
On Sun, 30 Dec 2012 11:33:37 -0500, JustWait
wrote:

Anything structural, we would not use a helicoil at all.

I used a Helicoil for a crank cap on a Vega motor (in my Monza). I put
50,000 miles on it after that, no problems.


I know I just answered but I should note.. I wouldn't use it on a spark
plug on a race bike...

JustWait wrote:
On 12/30/2012 2:41 PM, wrote:
On Sun, 30 Dec 2012 11:33:37 -0500, JustWait
wrote:

Anything structural, we would not use a helicoil at all.

I used a Helicoil for a crank cap on a Vega motor (in my Monza). I put
50,000 miles on it after that, no problems.


I know I just answered but I should note.. I wouldn't use it on a spark
plug on a race bike...

Probably better to use the helicoil than not have one.

On 12/30/2012 9:17 PM, Califbill wrote:
JustWait wrote:
On 12/30/2012 2:41 PM, wrote:
On Sun, 30 Dec 2012 11:33:37 -0500, JustWait
wrote:

Anything structural, we would not use a helicoil at all.

I used a Helicoil for a crank cap on a Vega motor (in my Monza). I put
50,000 miles on it after that, no problems.


I know I just answered but I should note.. I wouldn't use it on a spark
plug on a race bike...

Probably better to use the helicoil than not have one.


I would really have to do the points math... 600 dollars and a few days
for a stock head... 4000 and weeks for parts if we grenade it.

JustWait wrote:
On 12/30/2012 9:17 PM, Califbill wrote:
JustWait wrote:
On 12/30/2012 2:41 PM, wrote:
On Sun, 30 Dec 2012 11:33:37 -0500, JustWait
wrote:

Anything structural, we would not use a helicoil at all.

I used a Helicoil for a crank cap on a Vega motor (in my Monza). I put
50,000 miles on it after that, no problems.


I know I just answered but I should note.. I wouldn't use it on a spark
plug on a race bike...

Probably better to use the helicoil than not have one.


I would really have to do the points math... 600 dollars and a few days
for a stock head... 4000 and weeks for parts if we grenade it.

A stripped out helicoil will not grenade the motor. And with a helicoil,
you probably have a stronger plug hole. Had to helicoil my Evenrude
snowmobile wankle engine plug and lasted the rest of the life of the sled.