Hi,

I have a 1985 Johnson 120HP VRO that threw something through the block
leaving the a hole the size of a quarter. Someone suggested that the VRO
system may have failed.

I am now replacing the damaged motor with a 1986 Johnson 90 HP VRO.
Would it be a good idea to remove the VRO and use premixed gas instead?
If so, how do I go about disconnecting the VRO system?

Thank you in advance for your replies on this question

Thanks,
Ted

In my opinion the VRO is just one more thing that can fail and lead to
catastrophic failure.
I'm not an OMC dood, but I bet plugging the 2 lines would do it. Then
pre-mix.

That "something" that went through the block may or may not have been VRO
related. A broken rod bolt will throw "something" through the block too -
and it's not pretty.

-W

"ted" wrote in message
...
Hi,

I have a 1985 Johnson 120HP VRO that threw something through the block
leaving the a hole the size of a quarter. Someone suggested that the VRO
system may have failed.

I am now replacing the damaged motor with a 1986 Johnson 90 HP VRO.
Would it be a good idea to remove the VRO and use premixed gas instead?
If so, how do I go about disconnecting the VRO system?

Thank you in advance for your replies on this question

Thanks,
Ted

A few years ago, I spent $4,000+ to fix my 150 Evinrude. I'm reasonably sure
that the VRO had a LOT to do with the failure. I wouldn't trust a VRO on
ANY engine.

Sure, if you can bring it in for $$$$$$$ maintenance and hope to get someone
who knows what he/she are doing to fix it...VRO is probably fine. It didn't
help me to have it maintained regularly.
RG

"Clams Canino" wrote in message
news:VPWgb.708108$Ho3.156212@sccrnsc03...
In my opinion the VRO is just one more thing that can fail and lead to
catastrophic failure.
I'm not an OMC dood, but I bet plugging the 2 lines would do it. Then
pre-mix.

That "something" that went through the block may or may not have been VRO
related. A broken rod bolt will throw "something" through the block too -
and it's not pretty.

-W

"ted" wrote in message
...
Hi,

I have a 1985 Johnson 120HP VRO that threw something through the block
leaving the a hole the size of a quarter. Someone suggested that the VRO
system may have failed.

I am now replacing the damaged motor with a 1986 Johnson 90 HP VRO.
Would it be a good idea to remove the VRO and use premixed gas instead?
If so, how do I go about disconnecting the VRO system?

Thank you in advance for your replies on this question

Thanks,
Ted

Would it be a good idea to remove the VRO and use premixed gas instead?

Ted..... The following should be of interest to you.

(VRO Changeover Judgement Call)

The VROs first came out in 1984 and have been upgraded quite a few times. In
my opinion, back around 1988, they had perfected them but I think that they
were upgraded even more since then. As long as the warning system is operating
as it should, I feel quite at ease with them.

Some boaters have voiced their thoughts such as "What if that overpriced
plastic horn should fail while I'm under way for some reason, and the VRO
decides to fail five minutes later?" Obviously that would result in a big
problem which really brings their fears into view.

The word "ease" is the key word though. If one has the slightest feeling of
being ill at ease with that setup, then they should take the route they feel
more at ease with. A judgement call each individual would need to make on their
own.

********************

(VRO Pump Conversion To Straight Fuel Pump)

You can convert the VRO pump into a straight fuel pump, eliminating the oil
tank and VRO pump warning system, but retain the overheat warning setup by
doing the following:

1 - Cut and plug the oil line at the engine so that the oil side of the VRO
pump will not draw air into its system. Trace the wires from the back of the
VRO to its rubber plug (electrical plug) and disconnect it.

2 - Trace the two wires from the oil tank to the engine, disconnect those two
wires, then remove them and the oil tank.

3 - Mix the 50/1 oil in the proper amount with whatever quanity fuel you have.
Disconnect the fuel line at the engine. Pump the fuel primer bulb until fuel
exits that hose with the tint of whatever oil you used. Reconnect the fuel
hose.

That's it. If you want to test the heat warning system to ease your mind, have
the key in the on position, then ground out the tan heat sensor wire that
you'll find protruding from the cylinder head. The warning horn should sound
off.

Joe Reeves (30+ Years With OMC)

"ReevesJ32" wrote in message
...
Would it be a good idea to remove the VRO and use premixed gas
instead?

Ted..... The following should be of interest to you.

(VRO Changeover Judgement Call)

The VROs first came out in 1984 and have been upgraded quite a few
times. In
my opinion, back around 1988, they had perfected them but I think that
they
were upgraded even more since then. As long as the warning system is
operating
as it should, I feel quite at ease with them.

Some boaters have voiced their thoughts such as "What if that
overpriced
plastic horn should fail while I'm under way for some reason, and the
VRO
decides to fail five minutes later?" Obviously that would result in a
big
problem which really brings their fears into view.

The word "ease" is the key word though. If one has the slightest
feeling of
being ill at ease with that setup, then they should take the route
they feel
more at ease with. A judgement call each individual would need to make
on their
own.

********************

(VRO Pump Conversion To Straight Fuel Pump)

You can convert the VRO pump into a straight fuel pump, eliminating
the oil
tank and VRO pump warning system, but retain the overheat warning
setup by
doing the following:

1 - Cut and plug the oil line at the engine so that the oil side of
the VRO
pump will not draw air into its system. Trace the wires from the back
of the
VRO to its rubber plug (electrical plug) and disconnect it.

2 - Trace the two wires from the oil tank to the engine, disconnect
those two
wires, then remove them and the oil tank.

3 - Mix the 50/1 oil in the proper amount with whatever quanity fuel
you have.
Disconnect the fuel line at the engine. Pump the fuel primer bulb
until fuel
exits that hose with the tint of whatever oil you used. Reconnect the
fuel
hose.

That's it. If you want to test the heat warning system to ease your
mind, have
the key in the on position, then ground out the tan heat sensor wire
that
you'll find protruding from the cylinder head. The warning horn should
sound
off.

Joe Reeves (30+ Years With OMC)

One could go to google and look up some of the lengthy posts by Karen
from Oz which detail reasons why she believes VRO is an accident waiting
to happen. They sounded reasonably persuasive to me, but I have a merc
so it is of only academic interest. And I have never looked at an
actual VRO or studied drawings in detail, so I'm not in a position to
give advice.

del cecchi

The VRO system works fine, you need to have the reduction for slower speeds.
If you are not maintaining your engine properly or storage then you will
have problems with anything IMHO. I have had VROs for a long time and have
had no problems with them.




"del cecchi" wrote in message
...

"ReevesJ32" wrote in message
...
Would it be a good idea to remove the VRO and use premixed gas
instead?

Ted..... The following should be of interest to you.

(VRO Changeover Judgement Call)

The VROs first came out in 1984 and have been upgraded quite a few
times. In
my opinion, back around 1988, they had perfected them but I think that
they
were upgraded even more since then. As long as the warning system is
operating
as it should, I feel quite at ease with them.

Some boaters have voiced their thoughts such as "What if that
overpriced
plastic horn should fail while I'm under way for some reason, and the
VRO
decides to fail five minutes later?" Obviously that would result in a
big
problem which really brings their fears into view.

The word "ease" is the key word though. If one has the slightest
feeling of
being ill at ease with that setup, then they should take the route
they feel
more at ease with. A judgement call each individual would need to make
on their
own.

********************

(VRO Pump Conversion To Straight Fuel Pump)

You can convert the VRO pump into a straight fuel pump, eliminating
the oil
tank and VRO pump warning system, but retain the overheat warning
setup by
doing the following:

1 - Cut and plug the oil line at the engine so that the oil side of
the VRO
pump will not draw air into its system. Trace the wires from the back
of the
VRO to its rubber plug (electrical plug) and disconnect it.

2 - Trace the two wires from the oil tank to the engine, disconnect
those two
wires, then remove them and the oil tank.

3 - Mix the 50/1 oil in the proper amount with whatever quanity fuel
you have.
Disconnect the fuel line at the engine. Pump the fuel primer bulb
until fuel
exits that hose with the tint of whatever oil you used. Reconnect the
fuel
hose.

That's it. If you want to test the heat warning system to ease your
mind, have
the key in the on position, then ground out the tan heat sensor wire
that
you'll find protruding from the cylinder head. The warning horn should
sound
off.

Joe Reeves (30+ Years With OMC)

One could go to google and look up some of the lengthy posts by Karen
from Oz which detail reasons why she believes VRO is an accident waiting
to happen. They sounded reasonably persuasive to me, but I have a merc
so it is of only academic interest. And I have never looked at an
actual VRO or studied drawings in detail, so I'm not in a position to
give advice.

del cecchi

ted wrote:
Hi,

I have a 1985 Johnson 120HP VRO that threw something through the block
leaving the a hole the size of a quarter. Someone suggested that the VRO
system may have failed.

I am now replacing the damaged motor with a 1986 Johnson 90 HP VRO.
Would it be a good idea to remove the VRO and use premixed gas instead?
If so, how do I go about disconnecting the VRO system?

Thank you in advance for your replies on this question

Thanks,
Ted



Yes very quickly.

K

Harry's second lie of the day, given on the one hand he claims his
family dealership which nobody can find any record nor even trace of was
the biggest in the NE it does seem a bit tricky that the head "mechanic"
was a part timer. Habitual liars have trouble as they get older; their
memory lets them down every time:-) Believe or not; it's up to you.

You'll recall my dad sold
approximately 500 outboards a year, which made him the largest dealer in
Connecticut and possibly all of New England,

then

My father's chief mechanic was a part-timer. In fact, he worked for
merchandise. His choice. As his "day job," he was chief of engine
development at a major helicopter factory near my father's marina.