I have a 1987 Caulkins Trailer which carries my 19 foot boat. I'm considering
changing my original grease type hubs which also have "Bearing Buddies", with
the new "Turbo Lube" oil submersed bearing trailer hubs from Tie Down
Engineering. However, I'm concerned that the oil type hubs may have problems
with water entering them when dunking the trailer upon launching.

I've had a lot of problems with the grease in my current hubs constantly
squirting out of back side of the hubs upon submersing my trailer in the water.
I've change the rear seals and still have the problem. I've been told that
there is probably an air pocket within the grease in the hub and upon
driving/heating them up then submersing them in water, this is what happens. I
will be installing stainless steel wear sleeves on the inner part of my spindle
to prevent either grease or oil from escaping.
Has anyone one had experience with both type of hubs? Which hub causes less
problems?

On 07 Oct 2003 04:09:14 GMT, (CaptainGo) wrote:

I have a 1987 Caulkins Trailer which carries my 19 foot boat. I'm considering
changing my original grease type hubs which also have "Bearing Buddies", with
the new "Turbo Lube" oil submersed bearing trailer hubs from Tie Down
Engineering. However, I'm concerned that the oil type hubs may have problems
with water entering them when dunking the trailer upon launching.

I've had a lot of problems with the grease in my current hubs constantly
squirting out of back side of the hubs upon submersing my trailer in the water.
I've change the rear seals and still have the problem. I've been told that
there is probably an air pocket within the grease in the hub and upon
driving/heating them up then submersing them in water, this is what happens. I
will be installing stainless steel wear sleeves on the inner part of my spindle
to prevent either grease or oil from escaping.
Has anyone one had experience with both type of hubs? Which hub causes less
problems?


I just bought a trailer from M and M Marine in NC. It's a Hi-Tech
brand. They use the Accu-Lube system. This is similar to a bearing
buddy, but sealed at the back.

You squirt the grease into a Zerk fitting on the outside while
spinning the wheel, just like a bearing buddy, but the grease goes
through the center of the bearing, and comes back out the front after
traveling over/through the roller bearings. Wipe of the excess before
putting the cap back on, and you have successfully repacked your
bearings without removing them.

My trailer will sit most of the season, so this, I think, is best for
me. If you'll be doing some serious mileage, maybe the wet ones would
be better.

My 2¢

Donny
1974 Trojan Sea Raider 25'

www.picturetrail.com/sixbennetts

http://thebayguide.com/rec.boats/donny_bennett.html

I've had absolutely no problem with oozing grease on my hubs, which are
fitted with Bearing Buddies.

"CaptainGo" wrote in message
...
I have a 1987 Caulkins Trailer which carries my 19 foot boat. I'm
considering
changing my original grease type hubs which also have "Bearing Buddies",
with
the new "Turbo Lube" oil submersed bearing trailer hubs from Tie Down
Engineering. However, I'm concerned that the oil type hubs may have
problems
with water entering them when dunking the trailer upon launching.

I've had a lot of problems with the grease in my current hubs constantly
squirting out of back side of the hubs upon submersing my trailer in the
water.
I've change the rear seals and still have the problem. I've been told
that
there is probably an air pocket within the grease in the hub and upon
driving/heating them up then submersing them in water, this is what
happens. I
will be installing stainless steel wear sleeves on the inner part of my
spindle
to prevent either grease or oil from escaping.
Has anyone one had experience with both type of hubs? Which hub causes
less
problems?

Look at Bearing Buddy Spindle Seals.
"CaptainGo" wrote in message
...
I have a 1987 Caulkins Trailer which carries my 19 foot boat. I'm
considering
changing my original grease type hubs which also have "Bearing Buddies",
with
the new "Turbo Lube" oil submersed bearing trailer hubs from Tie Down
Engineering. However, I'm concerned that the oil type hubs may have
problems
with water entering them when dunking the trailer upon launching.

I've had a lot of problems with the grease in my current hubs constantly
squirting out of back side of the hubs upon submersing my trailer in the
water.
I've change the rear seals and still have the problem. I've been told
that
there is probably an air pocket within the grease in the hub and upon
driving/heating them up then submersing them in water, this is what
happens. I
will be installing stainless steel wear sleeves on the inner part of my
spindle
to prevent either grease or oil from escaping.
Has anyone one had experience with both type of hubs? Which hub causes
less
problems?

"CaptainGo" wrote

"......I
will be installing stainless steel wear sleeves on the inner part of my
spindle
to prevent either grease or oil from escaping......"

OK-what are these wear sleeves (pretty sure I know...but...)how to install and
where to bye???
Seems I have to replace bearings dang near every time I use the trailer.

Thanks

Mike

"CaptMP" wrote in message
...
"CaptainGo" wrote

"......I
will be installing stainless steel wear sleeves on the inner part of my
spindle
to prevent either grease or oil from escaping......"

OK-what are these wear sleeves (pretty sure I know...but...)how to install
and
where to bye???
Seems I have to replace bearings dang near every time I use the trailer.

Thanks

Mike

I know that last sentence is an exaggeration, but still, you're obviously
having more problems than some other people. Since you asked "how to
install", here's a thought:

My trailer's gone 4 years without any bearing problems, but luck doesn't
last that long, so I'm going to have my mechanic open them up, clean
completely and inspect, and install new parts (if needed) which I'll get
from a marine store. The mechanic said two things:

1) If there's ANYTHING different about the parts, compared to car bearings,
and he's not comfortable doing it, he won't start the job at all. This is
why I've used the same guy since 1982.

2) Unless he's being shot at while doing the work, it should take 1-2 hours.
That's about $80. This might seem like a crazy amount of money to spend,
but:

- I don't REALLY know how to do the job, although I'm sure I could
eventually get it done. It might blow an entire Saturday, but hell....I
don't mind giving up what could be the last decent fishing day before it
snows or before the season ends for trout or bass or whatever.

- I get unlimited vacation days with pay (NOT), so if I spend one of them on
the side of the road with a broken down trailer, waiting for a tow truck,
it's no big deal.

- If, after driving 4 hours, I found that the hub on one side felt hotter
than the other, I would find this to be an interesting intellectual puzzle,
something to meditate on, like a Zen koan.

- Just like the mechanic, I could degrease the bearings so they could be
more thoroughly inspected. Then, I'd enjoy a trip to the county's haz-waste
place to get rid of the can of dirty solvent or gasoline or whatever. Much
more fun than reading fishing magazines and eating lunch.

So....$80 seems like a great idea.