"Jim24242" wrote in message
...

There is a plug in tester at camping world that seems to offer all the
informatiom you need. Voltage Frequency Amps and polarity. It didn't say
how many amps though. One thing though. Ant testing you do should be at
the power pedestal BEFORE you hook your camper to it. That means you need
to use an adapter to convert from a 30A receptacle to a 15A
receptacle.

The only problem with that .... John ... pay attention..... is that if
the RV site's wiring or power is lacking, it will not show a voltage droop
with any load. In other words, the voltage may read 120vac under no load,
but after he plugs in and fires up the AC it might droop. He can find out
by measuring the voltage before he hooks up and then again with the AC
running at any 120vac outlet in his camper, assuming it is not powered by a
converter. Usually the microwave and the AC are not run through the
converter, so either of the power sources inside the camper could be
checked.

The voltage at the remote power setup I had in Florida used to droop to
105vac on some days. Bad for the AC compressor. That's why I bought the
buck/boost transformer.

Eisboch

Eisboch wrote:
"Jim24242" wrote in message
...
There is a plug in tester at camping world that seems to offer all the
informatiom you need. Voltage Frequency Amps and polarity. It didn't say
how many amps though. One thing though. Ant testing you do should be at
the power pedestal BEFORE you hook your camper to it. That means you need
to use an adapter to convert from a 30A receptacle to a 15A
receptacle.

The only problem with that .... John ... pay attention..... is that if
the RV site's wiring or power is lacking, it will not show a voltage droop
with any load. In other words, the voltage may read 120vac under no load,
but after he plugs in and fires up the AC it might droop. He can find out
by measuring the voltage before he hooks up and then again with the AC
running at any 120vac outlet in his camper, assuming it is not powered by a
converter. Usually the microwave and the AC are not run through the
converter, so either of the power sources inside the camper could be
checked.

The voltage at the remote power setup I had in Florida used to droop to
105vac on some days. Bad for the AC compressor. That's why I bought the
buck/boost transformer.

Eisboch


There's a difference between "Droop" or sag and voltage drop under load.
The sag can be detected without hooking up a load.

On Mon, 22 Jun 2009 09:51:00 -0400, "Eisboch"
wrote:


"Jim24242" wrote in message
...

There is a plug in tester at camping world that seems to offer all the
informatiom you need. Voltage Frequency Amps and polarity. It didn't say
how many amps though. One thing though. Ant testing you do should be at
the power pedestal BEFORE you hook your camper to it. That means you need
to use an adapter to convert from a 30A receptacle to a 15A
receptacle.

The only problem with that .... John ... pay attention..... is that if
the RV site's wiring or power is lacking, it will not show a voltage droop
with any load. In other words, the voltage may read 120vac under no load,
but after he plugs in and fires up the AC it might droop. He can find out
by measuring the voltage before he hooks up and then again with the AC
running at any 120vac outlet in his camper, assuming it is not powered by a
converter. Usually the microwave and the AC are not run through the
converter, so either of the power sources inside the camper could be
checked.

The voltage at the remote power setup I had in Florida used to droop to
105vac on some days. Bad for the AC compressor. That's why I bought the
buck/boost transformer.

That's a good point - didn't think of that.

It's all about the load baby.

If you turn the AC on, you should be able to tell if the voltage drops
at another 120 Vac receptacle right?

"Wizard of Woodstock" wrote in message
...

That's a good point - didn't think of that.

It's all about the load baby.

If you turn the AC on, you should be able to tell if the voltage drops
at another 120 Vac receptacle right?


Generally, yes but some campers are set up such that some of the 120 vac
outlets are powered by the converter and it's regulation may take care of
droop. However, the high current draw items like the AC and the microwave
are wired directly to the "shore" power 120v source and do not run through
the converter.

Some campers get all the 120vac from the shore power source. In that case,
yes, any outlet will do to check camper voltage under load.

Eisboch

"Eisboch" wrote in message
...

"Wizard of Woodstock" wrote in message
...

That's a good point - didn't think of that.

It's all about the load baby.

If you turn the AC on, you should be able to tell if the voltage drops
at another 120 Vac receptacle right?


Generally, yes but some campers are set up such that some of the 120 vac
outlets are powered by the converter and it's regulation may take care of
droop. However, the high current draw items like the AC and the
microwave are wired directly to the "shore" power 120v source and do not
run through the converter.

Some campers get all the 120vac from the shore power source. In that
case, yes, any outlet will do to check camper voltage under load.

Eisboch

Correction .... "inverter" .... not "converter". The inverter produces
120vac from 12 vdc.
The converter produces 12vdc from 120vac.

Eisboch

On Mon, 22 Jun 2009 11:11:33 -0400, "Eisboch"
wrote:


"Eisboch" wrote in message
m...

"Wizard of Woodstock" wrote in message
...

That's a good point - didn't think of that.

It's all about the load baby.

If you turn the AC on, you should be able to tell if the voltage drops
at another 120 Vac receptacle right?


Generally, yes but some campers are set up such that some of the 120 vac
outlets are powered by the converter and it's regulation may take care of
droop. However, the high current draw items like the AC and the
microwave are wired directly to the "shore" power 120v source and do not
run through the converter.

Some campers get all the 120vac from the shore power source. In that
case, yes, any outlet will do to check camper voltage under load.

Eisboch

Correction .... "inverter" .... not "converter". The inverter produces
120vac from 12 vdc.
The converter produces 12vdc from 120vac.

Eisboch

****. Why can't they simplify this stuff for us non-electricians?
--

John H

"John H" wrote in message
...

****. Why can't they simplify this stuff for us non-electricians?
--

John H


It's all very simple and uncomplicated until it breaks and you have to fix
it.

Eisboch

On Mon, 22 Jun 2009 11:08:32 -0400, "Eisboch"
wrote:


"Wizard of Woodstock" wrote in message
.. .

That's a good point - didn't think of that.

It's all about the load baby.

If you turn the AC on, you should be able to tell if the voltage drops
at another 120 Vac receptacle right?

Generally, yes but some campers are set up such that some of the 120 vac
outlets are powered by the converter and it's regulation may take care of
droop. However, the high current draw items like the AC and the microwave
are wired directly to the "shore" power 120v source and do not run through
the converter.

Some campers get all the 120vac from the shore power source. In that case,
yes, any outlet will do to check camper voltage under load.

So in John's case, to be absolutely sure, he'd have to place a metered
load at the source point to determine any voltage drop.

Hmmmmm....

Wizard of Woodstock wrote:
On Mon, 22 Jun 2009 11:08:32 -0400, "Eisboch"
wrote:

"Wizard of Woodstock" wrote in message
...
That's a good point - didn't think of that.

It's all about the load baby.

If you turn the AC on, you should be able to tell if the voltage drops
at another 120 Vac receptacle right?
Generally, yes but some campers are set up such that some of the 120 vac
outlets are powered by the converter and it's regulation may take care of
droop. However, the high current draw items like the AC and the microwave
are wired directly to the "shore" power 120v source and do not run through
the converter.

Some campers get all the 120vac from the shore power source. In that case,
yes, any outlet will do to check camper voltage under load.

So in John's case, to be absolutely sure, he'd have to place a metered
load at the source point to determine any voltage drop.

Hmmmmm....


snerk

If you want reliable power at a trailer camp, you need to carry your
power with you.

As in

http://www.hondapowerequipment.com/p...lid=EU3000ISAN

"HK" wrote in message
m...

If you want reliable power at a trailer camp, you need to carry your power
with you.

As in

http://www.hondapowerequipment.com/p...lid=EU3000ISAN


Nice guy. Your camp neighbors will love you for it.
But, then again, it's not about *them*, now is it?

Eisboch