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#1
posted to rec.boats
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Travel trailer air conditioner
Had our little rig out this past weekend, down to Williamsburg, VA,
where the temp climbed into the 90s on Saturday. Last time we were in that kind of heat the air conditioner kept popping the circuit breaker. This time the AC worked well. Don't know if the problem was the circuit breaker or not, but at least we kept cool this time. We stayed at the American Heritage RV park, which is a nice place to stay if you're ever in that neck of the woods. Tom or Dick, if either of you happen to read this, last year one of you suggested an instrument for testing the current at camp sites. I didn't get it then, but want it now. Could you remind me again what it was, please? -- John H |
#2
posted to rec.boats
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Travel trailer air conditioner
"John H" wrote in message ... Had our little rig out this past weekend, down to Williamsburg, VA, where the temp climbed into the 90s on Saturday. Last time we were in that kind of heat the air conditioner kept popping the circuit breaker. This time the AC worked well. Don't know if the problem was the circuit breaker or not, but at least we kept cool this time. We stayed at the American Heritage RV park, which is a nice place to stay if you're ever in that neck of the woods. Tom or Dick, if either of you happen to read this, last year one of you suggested an instrument for testing the current at camp sites. I didn't get it then, but want it now. Could you remind me again what it was, please? -- John H Other than a multimeter, I don't recall a specific "tester" for RV service outlets. A multimeter will allow you to check for proper voltage and polarity. BTW, you should have included Harry in your request for info. Then you would have addressed every "Tom, Dick and Harry" ... Oh well. Early in the morning, I guess. Eisboch |
#3
posted to rec.boats
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Travel trailer air conditioner
On Jun 22, 7:54*am, "Eisboch" wrote:
"John H" wrote in message ... Had our little rig out this past weekend, down to Williamsburg, VA, where the temp climbed into the 90s on Saturday. Last time we were in that kind of heat the air conditioner kept popping the circuit breaker. This time the AC worked well. Don't know if the problem was the circuit breaker or not, but at least we kept cool this time. We stayed at the American Heritage RV park, which is a nice place to stay if you're ever in that neck of the woods. Tom or Dick, if either of you happen to read this, last year one of you suggested an instrument for testing the current at camp sites. I didn't get it then, but want it now. Could you remind me again what it was, please? -- John H Other than a multimeter, I don't recall a specific "tester" for RV service outlets. A multimeter will allow you to check for proper voltage and polarity. BTW, you should have included Harry in your request for info. Then you would have addressed every "Tom, Dick and Harry" ... Oh well. Early in the morning, I guess. Eisboch- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - And Harry would have known the answer, because he knows everything about anything, just ask him! |
#4
posted to rec.boats
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Travel trailer air conditioner
Eisboch wrote:
"John H" wrote in message ... Had our little rig out this past weekend, down to Williamsburg, VA, where the temp climbed into the 90s on Saturday. Last time we were in that kind of heat the air conditioner kept popping the circuit breaker. This time the AC worked well. Don't know if the problem was the circuit breaker or not, but at least we kept cool this time. We stayed at the American Heritage RV park, which is a nice place to stay if you're ever in that neck of the woods. Tom or Dick, if either of you happen to read this, last year one of you suggested an instrument for testing the current at camp sites. I didn't get it then, but want it now. Could you remind me again what it was, please? -- John H Other than a multimeter, I don't recall a specific "tester" for RV service outlets. A multimeter will allow you to check for proper voltage and polarity. BTW, you should have included Harry in your request for info. Then you would have addressed every "Tom, Dick and Harry" ... Oh well. Early in the morning, I guess. Eisboch Pretty witty. How many coffees so far this morning, 3 or 4? There is a plug in tester at camping world that seems to offer all the informatiom you need. Voltage Frequency Amps and polarity. It didn't say how many amps though. One thing though. Ant testing you do should be at the power pedestal BEFORE you hook your camper to it. That means you need to use an adapter to convert from a 30A receptacle to a 15A receptacle. |
#5
posted to rec.boats
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Travel trailer air conditioner
On Mon, 22 Jun 2009 08:23:37 -0400, Jim24242
wrote: Ant testing you do should be at the power pedestal BEFORE you hook your camper to it. That means you need to use an adapter to convert from a 30A receptacle to a 15A receptacle. You can stick any meter probe in any recepticle, so what is the problem. You should have a digital multimeter in any case. Casady |
#6
posted to rec.boats
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Travel trailer air conditioner
"Richard Casady" wrote in message ... On Mon, 22 Jun 2009 08:23:37 -0400, Jim24242 wrote: Ant testing you do should be at the power pedestal BEFORE you hook your camper to it. That means you need to use an adapter to convert from a 30A receptacle to a 15A receptacle. You can stick any meter probe in any recepticle, so what is the problem. You should have a digital multimeter in any case. Casady Some of these characters would hurt themselves trying to use a multimeter. JohnnyPrepH would be best paying someone to perform the tests. |
#7
posted to rec.boats
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Travel trailer air conditioner
Richard Casady wrote:
On Mon, 22 Jun 2009 08:23:37 -0400, Jim24242 wrote: Ant testing you do should be at the power pedestal BEFORE you hook your camper to it. That means you need to use an adapter to convert from a 30A receptacle to a 15A receptacle. You can stick any meter probe in any recepticle, so what is the problem. You should have a digital multimeter in any case. Casady There are those among us that are not handy with tools. Think convenience. You can plug in any of number of testers designed to do the needed testing. Or hold the meter in one hand, the first probe in one hand, the 2nd probe in another hand and, hey wait a minute, you need 3 hands. |
#8
posted to rec.boats
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Travel trailer air conditioner
On Mon, 22 Jun 2009 10:09:44 -0400, Jim24242
wrote: Richard Casady wrote: On Mon, 22 Jun 2009 08:23:37 -0400, Jim24242 wrote: Ant testing you do should be at the power pedestal BEFORE you hook your camper to it. That means you need to use an adapter to convert from a 30A receptacle to a 15A receptacle. You can stick any meter probe in any recepticle, so what is the problem. You should have a digital multimeter in any case. Casady There are those among us that are not handy with tools. Think convenience. You can plug in any of number of testers designed to do the needed testing. Or hold the meter in one hand, the first probe in one hand, the 2nd probe in another hand and, hey wait a minute, you need 3 hands. Two probes in one hand. Ever hear of chopsticks? A billion people can handle those ****ers. It takes two dice, but only one hand, to shoot craps. When I started sailboat races I had to manipulate, simultaniously, a stopwatch, a shotgun, and two flags. Casady |
#9
posted to rec.boats
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Travel trailer air conditioner
"Jim24242" wrote in message ... There is a plug in tester at camping world that seems to offer all the informatiom you need. Voltage Frequency Amps and polarity. It didn't say how many amps though. One thing though. Ant testing you do should be at the power pedestal BEFORE you hook your camper to it. That means you need to use an adapter to convert from a 30A receptacle to a 15A receptacle. The only problem with that .... John ... pay attention..... is that if the RV site's wiring or power is lacking, it will not show a voltage droop with any load. In other words, the voltage may read 120vac under no load, but after he plugs in and fires up the AC it might droop. He can find out by measuring the voltage before he hooks up and then again with the AC running at any 120vac outlet in his camper, assuming it is not powered by a converter. Usually the microwave and the AC are not run through the converter, so either of the power sources inside the camper could be checked. The voltage at the remote power setup I had in Florida used to droop to 105vac on some days. Bad for the AC compressor. That's why I bought the buck/boost transformer. Eisboch |
#10
posted to rec.boats
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Travel trailer air conditioner
Eisboch wrote:
"Jim24242" wrote in message ... There is a plug in tester at camping world that seems to offer all the informatiom you need. Voltage Frequency Amps and polarity. It didn't say how many amps though. One thing though. Ant testing you do should be at the power pedestal BEFORE you hook your camper to it. That means you need to use an adapter to convert from a 30A receptacle to a 15A receptacle. The only problem with that .... John ... pay attention..... is that if the RV site's wiring or power is lacking, it will not show a voltage droop with any load. In other words, the voltage may read 120vac under no load, but after he plugs in and fires up the AC it might droop. He can find out by measuring the voltage before he hooks up and then again with the AC running at any 120vac outlet in his camper, assuming it is not powered by a converter. Usually the microwave and the AC are not run through the converter, so either of the power sources inside the camper could be checked. The voltage at the remote power setup I had in Florida used to droop to 105vac on some days. Bad for the AC compressor. That's why I bought the buck/boost transformer. Eisboch There's a difference between "Droop" or sag and voltage drop under load. The sag can be detected without hooking up a load. |
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