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2008 Yamaha F150 - How long should it take...
On Dec 19, 12:23*pm, Jim wrote:
John wrote: On Fri, 19 Dec 2008 12:06:12 -0500, Gene wrote: On Fri, 19 Dec 2008 11:21:48 -0500, wrote: On Fri, 19 Dec 2008 11:07:20 -0500, John wrote: ...for water to come out the pilot hole with ear muffs attached once the engine has been started and is idling at about 700rpm? Yesterday I was about to fog the engine. I put the muffs on, got a good supply of water going, and cranked the engine. After a minute or so, and no water from the pilot hole, I shut it down. I called the dealer. He said to connect the hose at the flushing attachment, but not to let the engine get over idle speed. Then, he said, remove the rubber caps on what appears to be the intake manifold and spray into them. This is much easier said than done, and is totally different from what the book says. Also, anyone have a picture of the 'intake silencer' or the 'fogging hole of the silencer cover'. I'm thinking the spray should go into what appears to be the air box through the wire mesh on the inner portion of the box. Help? If you did what the dealer told you, you now need a new water pump impeller. The flush hose fitting is to be used with the engine OFF, as it supplies no water down into the water pump, which is ruined in seconds by runniing without water. Some engines also *require muffs that push water through BOTH sides.. Not all muffs do that. With the proper muffs, set up correctly, there should be water from the pilot hole almost instantly when you start the engine. Different animal, but my Suzuki allows operation, not above idle, through the flushing port. I have had this happen on occasion because I had some insect perpetually trying to build a nest in the pee hole. The engine was getting cooling water, it just wasn't peeing. I can remove the plastic plug that constitutes the pee hole and clean it out. I don't think you have that luxury and I suspect the dealer is trying to get you to essentially back flush a plug out.... at least I *hope* that is what it was. I'd *never* run an engine over about 10-15 seconds without seeing some water or knowing, in some way, that water was circulating. Latest preferred practice (though I don't get it) is that one must use muffs that push water through BOTH sides of the new Yamahas. A dry water pump self destructs in seconds...... Thanks Gene. When I hook the hose to the garden hose adapter, water *does* come out the pee hole. Maybe there was an obstruction and the garden hose adapter setup allowed enough pressure to unjam it. I'll try the muffs again today. To fog the engine, I've got to get enough rpm for the intake to suck in the fogging oil. An idle at 700rpm doesn't do it. -- We say, "MERRY CHRISTMAS!" John If the muffs are on tight and the water spills out around the muffs, you can boost the RPMs a little Just until the water pump sucks up all the water without spilling. It's good to get up to 1000 RPM to prevent premature stalling from the fogging operation.- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - Yep, that's true! |
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