Thanks for the advice. I have changed the battery in my motorcycle before but
never in my boat.....is there anythign in particular I need to know
specifically about boat batteries or will it be the same at when I changed the
bike battery? Thanks again.

Asad

Plexiform wrote:

... The battery tender is no longer functioning, and when I try
to start the boat it gives me no sounds at all. The clicking of the starter is
not even there. Again when I try to jump it with my car, there is no
juice...no starter clicking....nothing. ...

I'd start by replacing the battery (I had one short out - same symptoms)
and cleaning all of the cable connections.
Good luck
Howard

On 02 Jul 2003 13:52:45 GMT, (Plexiform) wrote:

Thanks for the advice. I have changed the battery in my motorcycle before but
never in my boat.....is there anythign in particular I need to know
specifically about boat batteries or will it be the same at when I changed the
bike battery? Thanks again.

Asad

Sounds like you want to buy a "marine starting battery" - the only
difference between this and a traditional automotive starting battery
is that the marine version has carrying handles, and threaded posts on
the terminals. (and may cost a little more :-( ) (I've noticed that
some modern automotive batteries have strange terminals, and may be
somewhat smaller than the traditional "group 24" size.)



--
Peter Bennett, VE7CEI
new newsgroup users info : http://vancouver-webpages.com/nnq
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Plexiform wrote:

Thanks for the advice. I have changed the battery in my motorcycle before ...

Funny - the battery I had that that shorted was in a motorcycle.
Changing them is the same basic drill but everything is bigger. Note
which wires go on the positive (+) and negative (-) terminals (there may
well be more than one) and put them on the new battery the same way.
Also be sure to strap the new battery down.

BTW, my sailboat has two batteries and there is a large switch that
selects #1, #2, BOTH or OFF. If it's "OFF" or on the other battery a
jump start won't work. Also, if you have one like it NEVER run the motor
in "OFF" - it could mess up the generator.

good luck
Howard

thanks to all who replied to my original question. I got a Marine Starting
Battery from Sears...cost $50. Installing it was very simple. The boat still
didnt start. Took the boat to a mechanic, and it turns out the starter is
broken. But the original battery was also in poor condition so replacing it
was not a total waste.

"John" wrote in message
m...
Peter Bennett wrote in message
rnews.com...
On 02 Jul 2003 13:52:45 GMT, (Plexiform) wrote:
Sounds like you want to buy a "marine starting battery" - the only
difference between this and a traditional automotive starting battery
is that the marine version has carrying handles, and threaded posts on
the terminals. (and may cost a little more :-( ) (I've noticed that
some modern automotive batteries have strange terminals, and may be
somewhat smaller than the traditional "group 24" size.)

The differance between batteries for marine usage and automotive is
more than just skin deep. Deep cycle batteries are designed for heavy
discharging and recharging. Their's a lot of heat generated in the
process. Deep cycle batteries have thicker plates inside, they resist
warping under heavy load which ruins a battery. You can ruin an
automotive battery real fast if you heat it up. And the differance in
price, get real, it isn't that much. Try Sears, their marine batteries
are very reasonable.

I think you've got that back to front.

He was actually referring to marine starting batteries.

Starting batteries, whether marine or automotive have the same
characteristics. Lots of thin plates to develop a high amperage for a short
time. Doesn't matter which you buy, as long as the posts are in the right
place and the right type for your installation.Except the word 'marine'
seems to add 10% to the price. Although popularly they're known by their
ampere-hour capacity, what really counts is their CCA capacity - Cold
Cranking Amps they can deliver for a given time. A typical 50hp diesel may
need some 600 CCA, and regularly use hundreds of amps on a start, but only
over 10's of seconds.

Deep cycle batteries have different characteristics. They're used in
ambulances, golf carts, invalid wagons, lorries with loading ramps, camper
vans and (add the usual 10%) for marine use. They have relatively few, thick
plates per cell, and they're designed to tolerate 50% discharge and recharge
for some 500 cycles or more, working at relatively low amperages (10's of
amps for hours). If a deep cycle battery develops 100a for more than ten
secs or so, there's danger that surface heating of the plates may warp them,
so don't use them for starting, except in emergency.

Much better to refer to batteries as for deep cycle use, or starting use,
rather then the woolly 'marine use', a marketing term for raising the price
of a product by convincing us ignorant sailors that MY battery is all things
to all men. OK, some 'marine' batteries are compromises, suitable for small
craft which can't have one battery for starting and one for domestics.

That's better. Got that off my chest then.
--
Jim B, Yacht RAPAZ,
Summers in the Med, winters in UK
jim[dot]baerselman[at]ntlworld[dot]com