Shields makes straight and 90º threaded hose adaptors and Sealand sells
a straight PVC to hose adaptor. Both are exactly the right size to fit
1 1/2" sanitation hose. They cost about $8/each and slip on with a
little KY jelley.
Most of my runs are a Shields adaptor threaded into the tank, 12" to 24"
of Sealand hose, a Seland adaptor and then Schedule 40. If I had to go
around a corner I used sweep ells or 45s. On the head end there is
another Sealand transition to a short length of hose which then fits on
the head outlet.

BTW, I have a couple of Shields 90s, a straight and a couple of Sealand
straight transitions left over if anybody needs them.

Skip Gundlach wrote:
"Glenn Ashmore" wrote in message
news:kXYec.669$uF3.447@lakeread04...

You don't need a whole lot. I talked to Ed McKunen, president of
Sealand (and not my favorite person) about it. We recommend making your
longer runs in Schedule 40 PVC with short lengths of Odorsafe to absorb
vibration and movement.


Does the hose go over the pipe, or are some intermediate fittings needed to
work?

L8R

Skip


--
Glenn Ashmore

I'm building a 45' cutter in strip/composite. Watch my progress (or lack
there of) at: http://www.rutuonline.com
Shameless Commercial Division: http://www.spade-anchor-us.com

Shields makes straight and 90º threaded hose adaptors and Sealand sells
a straight PVC to hose adaptor. Both are exactly the right size to fit
1 1/2" sanitation hose. They cost about $8/each and slip on with a
little KY jelley.
Most of my runs are a Shields adaptor threaded into the tank, 12" to 24"
of Sealand hose, a Seland adaptor and then Schedule 40. If I had to go
around a corner I used sweep ells or 45s. On the head end there is
another Sealand transition to a short length of hose which then fits on
the head outlet.

BTW, I have a couple of Shields 90s, a straight and a couple of Sealand
straight transitions left over if anybody needs them.

Skip Gundlach wrote:
"Glenn Ashmore" wrote in message
news:kXYec.669$uF3.447@lakeread04...

You don't need a whole lot. I talked to Ed McKunen, president of
Sealand (and not my favorite person) about it. We recommend making your
longer runs in Schedule 40 PVC with short lengths of Odorsafe to absorb
vibration and movement.


Does the hose go over the pipe, or are some intermediate fittings needed to
work?

L8R

Skip


--
Glenn Ashmore

I'm building a 45' cutter in strip/composite. Watch my progress (or lack
there of) at: http://www.rutuonline.com
Shameless Commercial Division: http://www.spade-anchor-us.com

"Glenn Ashmore" wrote in message
news:kXYec.669$uF3.447@lakeread04...
You don't need a whole lot. I talked to Ed McKunen, president of
Sealand (and not my favorite person) about it. We recommend making your
longer runs in Schedule 40 PVC with short lengths of Odorsafe to absorb
vibration and movement.

Does the hose go over the pipe, or are some intermediate fittings needed to
work?

L8R

Skip

--
Morgan 461 #2
SV Flying Pig
http://tinyurl.com/384p2

"Twenty years from now you will be more disappointed by the things you
didn't do than by the ones you did do. So throw off the bowlines. Sail away
from the safe harbor. Catch the trade winds in your sails. Explore. Dream.
Discover." - Mark Twain

A brief followup to the original question, which was about Sealand
OdorsafePlus and other sanitation hose:

Various posters have worried over, or enthused over, PVC as boat pipe. In
particular, though:

"Glenn Ashmore" wrote in message
news:kXYec.669$uF3.447@lakeread04...
You don't need a whole lot. I talked to Ed McKunen, president of
Sealand (and not my favorite person) about it. We recommend making your
longer runs in Schedule 40 PVC with short lengths of Odorsafe to absorb
vibration and movement.

From this - and the presence of a large number of fittings on their site - I
infer that using PVC where possible is the preferred modus. Is that so?
And WRT movement, is it better to let it hang, with the hose being the boat
equivalent of muffler hangers on a car, or to support longer sections firmly
(e.g. the riser to the vented loop, which could be secured to a bulkhead)?

And one other question - am I likely to find these fittings at a West, or
are they direct or special order? Should I use large radius fittings in
between ends, or just their 90s?

I'm thrilled to think that I might be able to use PVC for large segments of
the waste plumbing - not so much for cost, but that it would (presumably) be
the end of it, not to mention that the smallest possible segments of *any*
hose would limit the amount of exposure to future smelly issues..

Thanks for any experience...

L8R

Skip
--
Morgan 461 #2
SV Flying Pig
http://tinyurl.com/384p2


"And then again, when you sit at the helm of your little ship on a
clear night, and gaze at the countless stars overhead, and realize
that you are quite alone on a great, wide sea, it is apt to occur to
you that in the general scheme of things you are merely an
insignificant speck on the surface of the ocean; and are not nearly
so important or as self-sufficient as you thought you were. Which is
an exceedingly wholesome thought, and one that may effect a
permanent change in your deportment that will be greatly appreciated
by your friends." - James S. Pitkin

Support the pipe well every 24-26". Do not allow the fittings to be
subjected to stress. The Shields and Sealand fittings only come
straight and 90s. Try to use the straights where ever possible and
sweeps on all pipe to pipe turns.

Like I said, I have some extra hose fittings if you need them.

Skip Gundlach wrote:

A brief followup to the original question, which was about Sealand
OdorsafePlus and other sanitation hose:

Various posters have worried over, or enthused over, PVC as boat pipe. In
particular, though:

"Glenn Ashmore" wrote in message
news:kXYec.669$uF3.447@lakeread04...

You don't need a whole lot. I talked to Ed McKunen, president of
Sealand (and not my favorite person) about it. We recommend making your
longer runs in Schedule 40 PVC with short lengths of Odorsafe to absorb
vibration and movement.


From this - and the presence of a large number of fittings on their site - I
infer that using PVC where possible is the preferred modus. Is that so?
And WRT movement, is it better to let it hang, with the hose being the boat
equivalent of muffler hangers on a car, or to support longer sections firmly
(e.g. the riser to the vented loop, which could be secured to a bulkhead)?

And one other question - am I likely to find these fittings at a West, or
are they direct or special order? Should I use large radius fittings in
between ends, or just their 90s?

I'm thrilled to think that I might be able to use PVC for large segments of
the waste plumbing - not so much for cost, but that it would (presumably) be
the end of it, not to mention that the smallest possible segments of *any*
hose would limit the amount of exposure to future smelly issues..

Thanks for any experience...

L8R

Skip

--
Glenn Ashmore

I'm building a 45' cutter in strip/composite. Watch my progress (or lack
there of) at: http://www.rutuonline.com
Shameless Commercial Division: http://www.spade-anchor-us.com

Support the pipe well every 24-26". Do not allow the fittings to be
subjected to stress. The Shields and Sealand fittings only come
straight and 90s. Try to use the straights where ever possible and
sweeps on all pipe to pipe turns.

Like I said, I have some extra hose fittings if you need them.

Skip Gundlach wrote:

A brief followup to the original question, which was about Sealand
OdorsafePlus and other sanitation hose:

Various posters have worried over, or enthused over, PVC as boat pipe. In
particular, though:

"Glenn Ashmore" wrote in message
news:kXYec.669$uF3.447@lakeread04...

You don't need a whole lot. I talked to Ed McKunen, president of
Sealand (and not my favorite person) about it. We recommend making your
longer runs in Schedule 40 PVC with short lengths of Odorsafe to absorb
vibration and movement.


From this - and the presence of a large number of fittings on their site - I
infer that using PVC where possible is the preferred modus. Is that so?
And WRT movement, is it better to let it hang, with the hose being the boat
equivalent of muffler hangers on a car, or to support longer sections firmly
(e.g. the riser to the vented loop, which could be secured to a bulkhead)?

And one other question - am I likely to find these fittings at a West, or
are they direct or special order? Should I use large radius fittings in
between ends, or just their 90s?

I'm thrilled to think that I might be able to use PVC for large segments of
the waste plumbing - not so much for cost, but that it would (presumably) be
the end of it, not to mention that the smallest possible segments of *any*
hose would limit the amount of exposure to future smelly issues..

Thanks for any experience...

L8R

Skip

--
Glenn Ashmore

I'm building a 45' cutter in strip/composite. Watch my progress (or lack
there of) at: http://www.rutuonline.com
Shameless Commercial Division: http://www.spade-anchor-us.com

A brief followup to the original question, which was about Sealand
OdorsafePlus and other sanitation hose:

Various posters have worried over, or enthused over, PVC as boat pipe. In
particular, though:

"Glenn Ashmore" wrote in message
news:kXYec.669$uF3.447@lakeread04...
You don't need a whole lot. I talked to Ed McKunen, president of
Sealand (and not my favorite person) about it. We recommend making your
longer runs in Schedule 40 PVC with short lengths of Odorsafe to absorb
vibration and movement.

From this - and the presence of a large number of fittings on their site - I
infer that using PVC where possible is the preferred modus. Is that so?
And WRT movement, is it better to let it hang, with the hose being the boat
equivalent of muffler hangers on a car, or to support longer sections firmly
(e.g. the riser to the vented loop, which could be secured to a bulkhead)?

And one other question - am I likely to find these fittings at a West, or
are they direct or special order? Should I use large radius fittings in
between ends, or just their 90s?

I'm thrilled to think that I might be able to use PVC for large segments of
the waste plumbing - not so much for cost, but that it would (presumably) be
the end of it, not to mention that the smallest possible segments of *any*
hose would limit the amount of exposure to future smelly issues..

Thanks for any experience...

L8R

Skip
--
Morgan 461 #2
SV Flying Pig
http://tinyurl.com/384p2


"And then again, when you sit at the helm of your little ship on a
clear night, and gaze at the countless stars overhead, and realize
that you are quite alone on a great, wide sea, it is apt to occur to
you that in the general scheme of things you are merely an
insignificant speck on the surface of the ocean; and are not nearly
so important or as self-sufficient as you thought you were. Which is
an exceedingly wholesome thought, and one that may effect a
permanent change in your deportment that will be greatly appreciated
by your friends." - James S. Pitkin

In article . net,
says...
I'm sure there's a good reason - but my initial looking discloses two basic
types of sanitation hose.

Both claim the same purpose (keep the stuff and the odor inside while on the
way outside), but there's one which is 3x the price of the other.

What's the difference, other than the obvious price? Easier to use? Won't
let the odor/seep through, ever, vs some number of years? Stays whiter in
more conditions?

The difference, in boat money terms, is pretty insignificant, I'd say (some
couple-three hundred bux for the standard 50' roll), but if it's not needed,
I can use that couple-three somewhere else.

Anybody used both (e.g. "148" vs "Sealand") who can give experiential input?

Thanks.

L8R

Skip

Morgan 461 #2
SV Flying Pig
http://tinyurl.com/384p2


Skip,

Spend the extra money.

The Sealand "Odorsafe" hose is actually from an Aussie company, its real
product name is AVS96. There may be other companies distributing this
hose in the states since I believe they've started to manufacture it
here.

I used a small piece of it when I first rerouted my sanitation system a
few years back. It was the section from the holding tank to the y-valve
so it was constantly bathed in black water. No detectable permeation in
three years. I've now replace nearly all my sanitation runs with the
AVS96 product.

I purchased some a few months ago from Fisheries Supply in Seattle and
it's the same product I've used from Sealand. It's harder to work with
than the Trident hose but well worth the work and investment.

No interest in the product other than a satisfied customer.

jps

Not really an answer to your question but...I saw hose that looked
suspiciously like marine sanitation hose in my neighborhood hardware store
the other day and when I asked the salesman about it he said it was hot tub
hose. Don't remember the actual price, but it was enough of a difference to
convince me to try it next time.

I've also found tygon (sp?) tubing with the colored reinforcements and all
at a farm supply for alot less than boat store people sell it for.

"Skip Gundlach" wrote in
message news
I'm sure there's a good reason - but my initial looking discloses two
basic
types of sanitation hose.

Both claim the same purpose (keep the stuff and the odor inside while on
the
way outside), but there's one which is 3x the price of the other.

What's the difference, other than the obvious price? Easier to use?
Won't
let the odor/seep through, ever, vs some number of years? Stays whiter in
more conditions?

The difference, in boat money terms, is pretty insignificant, I'd say
(some
couple-three hundred bux for the standard 50' roll), but if it's not
needed,
I can use that couple-three somewhere else.

Anybody used both (e.g. "148" vs "Sealand") who can give experiential
input?

Thanks.

L8R

Skip

Morgan 461 #2
SV Flying Pig
http://tinyurl.com/384p2

--
"And then again, when you sit at the helm of your little ship on a
clear night, and gaze at the countless stars overhead, and realize
that you are quite alone on a great, wide sea, it is apt to occur to
you that in the general scheme of things you are merely an
insignificant speck on the surface of the ocean; and are not nearly
so important or as self-sufficient as you thought you were. Which is
an exceedingly wholesome thought, and one that may effect a
permanent change in your deportment that will be greatly appreciated
by your friends." - James S. Pitkin

MMC wrote:
I saw hose that looked
suspiciously like marine sanitation hose in my neighborhood hardware store
the other day and when I asked the salesman about it he said it was hot tub
hose. Don't remember the actual price, but it was enough of a difference to
convince me to try it next time.

You'll be sorry. Not all white flexible pvc hose is created equal...and
hot tub hose is not rated for sanitation system use, only for water use.
It'll permeate with odor very quickly.

I've also found tygon (sp?) tubing with the colored reinforcements and all
at a farm supply for alot less than boat store people sell it for.

That may be ok, but if it'll be connected to any below-waterline
thru-hulls, make sure it's a grade that's rated for below-waterline use.

Flex hoses are like hard PVC in that they have "schedule" #s...schedule
148, 144 and 101 are rated for sanitation use...I'm not sure what the
"schedules" are for clear hose, but they also use a standardized system
that will tell you which hoses are rated for below waterline use and
which ones aren't.
--
Peggie
----------
Peggie Hall
Specializing in marine sanitation since 1987
Author "Get Rid of Boat Odors - A Guide To Marine Sanitation Systems and
Other Sources of Aggravation and Odor"
http://www.seaworthy.com/html/get_ri...oat_odors.html