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#2
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On Jun 17, 3:07*pm, Salomon Fringe wrote:
... I'm not seeing anything out of the ordinary. Do notice that may not be cycling your batteries very heavily. Also, your energy budget seems quite low! How do you live aboard? Washer? Microwave? TV? Computer(s), refrigerator/freezer? I wish I could answer the cycling question better. My tactic is to get a charger of some sort on the batteries when the voltage starts dropping below ~11.9v when hit with a load. That load is typically ~8 amps when the fridge and freezer compressors pop on. I'm not sure how much DOD that represents. At sea with the autopilot, lights, computer, SSB, etc and the solar panels usually shaded, they do get a deeply cycled for sure. As for loads, well, I think my boat is pretty systems heavy but we stop short of the washer/dryer and microwave. We do have two computers a 12v refrigerator and a 12v freezer each w/their own compressor, an electric auto-pilot, SSB, VHF, RADAR, GPSs, 1500 watt inverter, instruments, a diesel heater (seldom used), an electric windlass and lights (and probably some other stuff I'm forgetting). We live on board full time and cruise extensively. Our boat is a 42' catamaran. Your set-up is in a whole other league, though. I'm kind of in awe. I can see with a bank that size that cost must be a much more serious factor. How do you like 24 volts? -- Tom. |
#3
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#4
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On Jun 18, 3:11*am, Salomon Fringe wrote:
... Does your battery monitor show % discharge of your bank? If so that might be better than relying on voltage that changes depending on load. It does, but it's funky. I've fiddled with the Peukert a fair bit (now trying 1.150) and with the charge efficiency % (97). Still, it always tells me the batteries are worn down long before the voltage is weak and then it shows them fully charged while they're still accepting current. And it periodically has a two's complement / over- run thing that sends it off into huge negative numbers sounds the alarms and requires a re-set... It is a nice volt/amp meter, it does a good job of controlling the alternators and it does an adequate job of controlling the solar, but it's not all that useful as a battery gauge. ... What does your1500w inverter power? I suppose the inverter will be the heaviest load at possibly 120A @12v. The computers mostly. I also have some battery powered tools that I recharge with it and a dremel tool that I run off of it and when we've got cell phones we charge them, too. Typically it is off. We're basically a 12v DC boat. Sounds like you're on the other side of the coin being mostly 230 AC (50 cycle, I presume). In theory, your way should save a lot on wire and transmission losses. Anyway, I'm very happy with my AGMs and I'm glad to hear that you're happy with your tractor batteries. I think we'll all be happier yet when nickel, lithium or maybe even fuel cells are affordable. -- Tom. |
#5
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#6
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On Jun 18, 9:43*am, Salomon Fringe wrote:
... Seems like you have programmed it for too small a battery? You did check the correct number of amp hours and if the monitor asks for a c/20, c/10 or c/5 value? Well I put in the nominal ah for the c/20 rate. But it could be that the batteries are conservatively rated. The monitor manufacturers suggest testing the batteries at a high rate and then a low rate to get real numbers. I've avoided that as it can't be good for the batteries to run them flat twice or more (a single test is likely to have errors) and the numbers will change as the battery ages... All in all that seems like a high price to pay to have a % remaining number. I already know if the batteries are doing what I need. Anyway, I'm very happy with my AGMs and I'm glad to hear that you're happy with your tractor batteries. * Not tractor, more like forklift ;-) Oh darn "cruizhimers" strikes again. I knew it was one of the "T" words... Sorry ![]() -- Tom. |
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