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#1
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mine is 5 ft deep and long/narrow. In 17 years I've owned the boat
I've never felt a need to fill it in. Keeping it clean is easy - don't get stuff in it. I hose it out with dish soap, little bleach and fresh water every 2-3 years. I have a PYI shaft seal that stops seawater from getting thru the shaft packing - get a bit of rain water down the mast but no big deal. The bilge pump leaves maybe 1/2" of water in the bottom as the hose drains back some. On Fri, 19 Mar 2004 10:32:31 -0800, "Ytter" wrote: Hi Everybody!!!!! In my fiberglass 37' sailboat the bilge is very narrow,deep and long.It is very difficult to keep it clean and the bilge pump has to work hard to pump the water out.Is 3' deep. I'm thinking of fill it in 15" with pour-in foam and glass it over and then gel coat or bilge paint or epoxy cement patio paint. Do you think that's the best solution for this problem. Thanks,Ytter |
#2
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Hi Everybody!!!!!
In my fiberglass 37' sailboat the bilge is very narrow,deep and long.It is very difficult to keep it clean and the bilge pump has to work hard to pump the water out.Is 3' deep. I'm thinking of fill it in 15" with pour-in foam and glass it over and then gel coat or bilge paint or epoxy cement patio paint. Do you think that's the best solution for this problem. Thanks,Ytter |
#3
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IMHO (FWIW) I would recommend against displacing any bilge volume. Some day
you may have a presistant leak and the larger the bilge volume, the more time you have to find and fix the problem before the water gets to your batteries or other electrical systems. Normally the elect. bilge pump splices are are about 2 ft above the pump (due to the limited length of the original leads). I have concern in my present boat because 80% of my bilge(keel) volume is in integral tanks. These tanks also break the bulge into 3 zone, so I have to have three seperate bulge pumping sumps/systems. Back to your problem.. Use what ever means available to clean this bilge, vacuum extentions,etc., elimanate any leaks so it stays dry. Count your blessings for the extra volume when you take solid water down the hatch. Steve s/v Good Intentions |
#4
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Thank You Steve!
Would you recommend PSS Shaft Seal Packless Sealing System to solve 3-4 drops of water per minute to my bilge thru the shaft. If this is the solution I don't have to change anything. Ytter "Steve" wrote in message ... IMHO (FWIW) I would recommend against displacing any bilge volume. Some day you may have a presistant leak and the larger the bilge volume, the more time you have to find and fix the problem before the water gets to your batteries or other electrical systems. Normally the elect. bilge pump splices are are about 2 ft above the pump (due to the limited length of the original leads). I have concern in my present boat because 80% of my bilge(keel) volume is in integral tanks. These tanks also break the bulge into 3 zone, so I have to have three seperate bulge pumping sumps/systems. Back to your problem.. Use what ever means available to clean this bilge, vacuum extentions,etc., elimanate any leaks so it stays dry. Count your blessings for the extra volume when you take solid water down the hatch. Steve s/v Good Intentions |
#5
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I don't have any first hand experience with it but I hear it is better than
the teflon packing that I have used for years. With the teflon, I do get a few constant drips while the shaft is turning and it diminishes to near nothing when stopped.. Since I have a ridgid coupling, I have to have engine/shaft alignment down to about .010" at the coupling halves. With resilient mounts, this is difficult to maintain over time.. I've redone my engine alignment once since I launched 18 months ago. Seems to have settled in now. My point; when my engine shaft was out of alignment (acutally our of plane) by about .030", I had to constantly tighten the packing after each engine run... (of course I didn't know that I had lost my earlier alignment until I pulled the coupling bolts and the shaft couple raised noticiably when the spiget was disengaged.) Everything is fine now.. Traditional drip under way and little to none when stopped. I have a deep sump in the engine compartment so none of the leakoff ever gets into the main bilge. Steve s/v Good Intentions |
#6
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![]() IMHO (FWIW) Can somebody tell me what IMHO or FWIW means? Sorry, but I have seen it many times and can't figure it out. |
#7
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in my humble opinion for what it;s worth
On Sat, 20 Mar 2004 02:59:48 GMT, "O:P\)" wrote: IMHO (FWIW) Can somebody tell me what IMHO or FWIW means? Sorry, but I have seen it many times and can't figure it out. |
#8
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IMHO - In My Humble Opinion
FWIW - For What It's Worth "O:P)" wrote in message le.rogers.com... IMHO (FWIW) Can somebody tell me what IMHO or FWIW means? Sorry, but I have seen it many times and can't figure it out. |
#9
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IMHO - In My Humble Opinion
& FWIW - For What It's Worth Another real common one is: BTW - By The Way O:P) wrote: IMHO (FWIW) Can somebody tell me what IMHO or FWIW means? Sorry, but I have seen it many times and can't figure it out. -- Dan Best - (707) 431-1662, Healdsburg, CA 95448 B-2/75 1977-1979 Tayana 37 #192, "Tricia Jean" http://rangerbest.home.comcast.net/TriciaJean.JPG |
#10
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On Sat, 20 Mar 2004 02:59:48 GMT, "O:P\)" wrote:
IMHO (FWIW) Can somebody tell me what IMHO or FWIW means? Sorry, but I have seen it many times and can't figure it out. Google for "usenet acronyms" -- Peter Bennett, VE7CEI peterbb (at) interchange.ubc.ca new newsgroup users info : http://vancouver-webpages.com/nnq GPS and NMEA info: http://vancouver-webpages.com/peter Vancouver Power Squadron: http://vancouver.powersquadron.ca |
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