On Apr 3, 3:24 pm, Bruce in Bangkok wrote:
I would like to make the suggestion that individuals who pose
questions, especially complex questions like the recent Yanmar
governor problem, be encouraged to post the results. What did he/she
do and what was the result.

Sorry not to report back. I certainly would have posted with glee if
I had fixed it. All I ended up doing was taking a small access port
off that though which I could see, but not remove and measure the
springs on the throttle side of the assembly. It all looked lovely in
there but there was a little stiffness on the throttle crank itself.
So I lubed its axle and worked it a bit. I got one disconcerting
"thunk" out of the mechanism, put it all back together and ran it and
got the same failure then ran it again and it worked fine... By
looking at it I did convince myself that the fault was not in the
setting of the torque limiter. The current plan is to take off the
gear casing next time I pull the motor and inspect the bushings and
springs... Meanwhile I will continue to work around it. Many thanks
for your help and mea culpa for my silence.

Cheers,

-- Tom.

On Thu, 3 Apr 2008 20:00:58 -0700 (PDT), "
wrote:

On Apr 3, 3:24 pm, Bruce in Bangkok wrote:
I would like to make the suggestion that individuals who pose
questions, especially complex questions like the recent Yanmar
governor problem, be encouraged to post the results. What did he/she
do and what was the result.

Sorry not to report back. I certainly would have posted with glee if
I had fixed it. All I ended up doing was taking a small access port
off that though which I could see, but not remove and measure the
springs on the throttle side of the assembly. It all looked lovely in
there but there was a little stiffness on the throttle crank itself.
So I lubed its axle and worked it a bit. I got one disconcerting
"thunk" out of the mechanism, put it all back together and ran it and
got the same failure then ran it again and it worked fine... By
looking at it I did convince myself that the fault was not in the
setting of the torque limiter. The current plan is to take off the
gear casing next time I pull the motor and inspect the bushings and
springs... Meanwhile I will continue to work around it. Many thanks
for your help and mea culpa for my silence.

Cheers,

-- Tom.

I wasn't "pin pointing" you, sorry if it sounded as though I was,
simply using your problem as an example of something that I'd like to
learn more about as there are zillions of Yanmar engines and I'd like
to know how to fix that problem.

I read a reference to one of your posts, quoted in part by Roger, that
sounded as though the RPM was only unstable at low RPM, I remember
something about 1,000 RPM.

Bruce-in-Bangkok
(correct email address for reply)

"Bruce in Bangkok" wrote:

read a reference to one of your posts, quoted in part by Roger, that
sounded as though the RPM was only unstable at low RPM, I remember
something about 1,000 RPM.


Most diesels need to idle in the 1300-1500 RPM area in order to
generate enough waste heat to prevent
"wet-stacking" which will cause glazing of the cylinder walls,
creating a VERY expensive repair.

Lew

"Lew Hodgett" wrote in message
news:iMjJj.10032$s27.7854@trnddc02...

"Bruce in Bangkok" wrote:

read a reference to one of your posts, quoted in part by Roger, that
sounded as though the RPM was only unstable at low RPM, I remember
something about 1,000 RPM.


Most diesels need to idle in the 1300-1500 RPM area in order to generate
enough waste heat to prevent
"wet-stacking" which will cause glazing of the cylinder walls, creating a
VERY expensive repair.

Much better to cut out prolonged idling and get some load on sooner.
Start up, and by the time you have checked the exhaust for cooling water,
gone forward and cast off the mooring ropes the engine is ready to go.
In other words, just long enough to spread some oil around inside the
engine.
If you cannot get load on for some time then stop the engine until you are
ready.

On Fri, 4 Apr 2008 11:01:39 +0200, "Edgar"
wrote:


"Lew Hodgett" wrote in message
news:iMjJj.10032$s27.7854@trnddc02...

"Bruce in Bangkok" wrote:

read a reference to one of your posts, quoted in part by Roger, that
sounded as though the RPM was only unstable at low RPM, I remember
something about 1,000 RPM.


Most diesels need to idle in the 1300-1500 RPM area in order to generate
enough waste heat to prevent
"wet-stacking" which will cause glazing of the cylinder walls, creating a
VERY expensive repair.

Much better to cut out prolonged idling and get some load on sooner.
Start up, and by the time you have checked the exhaust for cooling water,
gone forward and cast off the mooring ropes the engine is ready to go.
In other words, just long enough to spread some oil around inside the
engine.
If you cannot get load on for some time then stop the engine until you are
ready.


Actually diesel engines aren't that sensitive. Certainly one should
not idle them for long periods - hours, but it does no damage to let
an engine idle while you are clearing up the lines or what ever. Ever
been into a truck stop on a winter morning and seen the lines of
Peterbilt's sitting there idling while the driver is in having
breakfast.

Bruce-in-Bangkok
(correct email address for reply)

On 2008-04-04 05:01:39 -0400, "Edgar" said:

"Lew Hodgett" wrote in message
news:iMjJj.10032$s27.7854@trnddc02...

"Bruce in Bangkok" wrote:

read a reference to one of your posts, quoted in part by Roger, that
sounded as though the RPM was only unstable at low RPM, I remember
something about 1,000 RPM.


Most diesels need to idle in the 1300-1500 RPM area in order to generate
enough waste heat to prevent
"wet-stacking" which will cause glazing of the cylinder walls, creating a
VERY expensive repair.

Much better to cut out prolonged idling and get some load on sooner.
Start up, and by the time you have checked the exhaust for cooling water,
gone forward and cast off the mooring ropes the engine is ready to go.
In other words, just long enough to spread some oil around inside the
engine.
If you cannot get load on for some time then stop the engine until you are
ready.

Yours is actually off the original topic (though entirely appropriate
for the newsgroup), but exactly describes my techniques over the past
15 or so seasons.

It's almost disappointing that those techniques have resulted in zero
required adjustments or repairs in over 1000 hours' operation. I do the
tests, the tests say "no problem".

--
Jere Lull
Tanzer 28 #4 out of Tolchester, MD
Xan's pages: http://web.mac.com/jerelull/iWeb/Xan/
Our BVI trips & tips: http://homepage.mac.com/jerelull/BVI/

On Fri, 04 Apr 2008 06:19:58 GMT, "Lew Hodgett"
wrote:


"Bruce in Bangkok" wrote:

read a reference to one of your posts, quoted in part by Roger, that
sounded as though the RPM was only unstable at low RPM, I remember
something about 1,000 RPM.


Most diesels need to idle in the 1300-1500 RPM area in order to
generate enough waste heat to prevent
"wet-stacking" which will cause glazing of the cylinder walls,
creating a VERY expensive repair.

Lew

And most boat engines need to idle down to about 700 - 800 RPM when
shifting to prevent imposing too large a load on the gearbox.

By the way, while I was in Singapore I adjusted the governor on a
Gardner 6 cyl. engine - 1.500 RPM full throttle. Idle at about 600
RPM.


Bruce-in-Bangkok
(correct email address for reply)

On Apr 3, 7:56 pm, Bruce in Bangkok wrote:
...there are zillions of Yanmar engines and I'd like
to know how to fix that problem.

Me, too!

I read a reference to one of your posts, quoted in part by Roger, that
sounded as though the RPM was only unstable at low RPM, I remember
something about 1,000 RPM.

No, it is generally stable at low to medium rpms (say ~850-1100). It
may hunt and/or loses power at higher rpms when loaded... Typically
it get progressively better as it gets warmer. I think everyone has
had a couple of swings at this and I'm not sure if there is much to be
gained by going over it all again. But I am listening. And, I will
be sure to report back if I fix it.

-- Tom.

"Bruce in Bangkok" wrote in message
...

I would like to make the suggestion that individuals who pose
questions, especially complex questions like the recent Yanmar
governor problem, be encouraged to post the results. What did he/she
do and what was the result.

We all learn from experience, whether our own or others and I feel
that a follow up post telling the group what was done and what was the
result would be beneficial to all readers.

I still don't know if the guy fixed his governor and what he did to
repair it. If the guy down the dock has the same problem how will I be
able play expert and tell him how to fix it :-)

Bruce-in-Bangkok
(correct email address for reply)


I agree.

I'd like to know about that bloke with the off-Compass but he hasn't posted
back as far as I can see.
Hoges in WA

On Fri, 04 Apr 2008 10:16:46 GMT, "Hoges in WA"
wrote:


"Bruce in Bangkok" wrote in message
.. .

I would like to make the suggestion that individuals who pose
questions, especially complex questions like the recent Yanmar
governor problem, be encouraged to post the results. What did he/she
do and what was the result.

We all learn from experience, whether our own or others and I feel
that a follow up post telling the group what was done and what was the
result would be beneficial to all readers.

I still don't know if the guy fixed his governor and what he did to
repair it. If the guy down the dock has the same problem how will I be
able play expert and tell him how to fix it :-)

Bruce-in-Bangkok
(correct email address for reply)


I agree.

I'd like to know about that bloke with the off-Compass but he hasn't posted
back as far as I can see.
Hoges in WA

Bruce is right, but IMO boat group posters are more likely to post
solutions than auto group posters. Can't count how many "hit-and-run"
seekers of help I've seen on the auto groups. They'll provide problem
symptoms, get multiple possible solutions, then disappear without ever
revealing the fix. I've run into many such dead ends that way.
I mentioned here a case of a bad resistor that fixed one fellow's
stalling problem. He had taken it to e-mail. A couple weeks later I
realized the fix wasn't in the group so I posted our correspondence
there after removing his email adder. Maybe it helped somebody.
The computer hardware groups are subject to this too, but not as much
as the auto groups.
Though the Yanmars are fairly common, the hunting problem (if that's
what it is) apparently isn't.
Having had a couple "almost impossible to diagnose" auto problems
that were tangentially related to heat, that's where I'd concentrate
the premise of the diagnostic approach.
Even knowing nothing of diesel throttle regulation, I assume the fuel
pressure/flow inputs and outputs of the governor can be measured,
though it might entail some effort and expense to set up the gauges.
What controls the governor rpm setting? Electrical tach? Vacuum?
Fuel pressure?
Too much I don't know about it. I'm a bit surprised that a good
Yanmar mechanic hasn't solved the problem, but suspect that one has
never been present when the problem occurred.

--Vic