Friends

I am going to see this boat tomorrow


http://www.boatsandoutboards.co.uk/view/F156297


Van de Stadt designed 2 = 2 Diesel Yacht re-engined 2005 with brand
new Volvo MD1, new(2005) stainless steel fuel tank, new sea toilet
with 2006 fitted sea valves. NASA echo sounder, well fitted out with
usual fittings, sails in good condition, Includes BIC dinghy


I can assume that the engine is okay


I will get the man to start it from cold for me


how do I check the cutlass gland


I understand they get sloppy


How do I check that the bilge keels are not about to fall off


how do I check that the rudder will not fall off


are there any known leak points on these boats


the rigging, mast, sails etc I assume I can judge for myself


do these boats suffer from roof compression


I have access to a drying mooring for the winter - on soft Salcombe
mud


will the boat be happy until Christmas


Dylan

"dylan winter" wrote in message
ups.com...
Friends

I am going to see this boat tomorrow


http://www.boatsandoutboards.co.uk/view/F156297


Van de Stadt designed 2 = 2 Diesel Yacht re-engined 2005 with brand
new Volvo MD1, new(2005) stainless steel fuel tank, new sea toilet
with 2006 fitted sea valves. NASA echo sounder, well fitted out with
usual fittings, sails in good condition, Includes BIC dinghy


Nice looking boat...

I can assume that the engine is okay


I will get the man to start it from cold for me

This won't tell you much, except that it starts. You could get an oil
analysis for about $20 US.


how do I check the cutlass gland

I understand they get sloppy


Cutlass bearing? You really have to haul the boat for this. If the boat is
on the hard, you can try and move the prop shaft by hand back and forth, up
and down. If it moves, then the bearing probably needs to be replaced... but
how are you going to start the engine if the boat is on the hard as in the
picture?


How do I check that the bilge keels are not about to fall off

Again, the boat needs to be on the hard... then, it's a matter of
inspection. On some boats, a gelcoat "smile" isn't a structural issue. On
others, it is.


how do I check that the rudder will not fall off


Same answer. Better question... is there water in the rudder?

are there any known leak points on these boats


Don't know this boat... can't comment.

the rigging, mast, sails etc I assume I can judge for myself


Do you have experience inspecting the standing rigging? If not, it's not
always obvious if there's a problem. Sail inspection should be fairly
obvious.

do these boats suffer from roof compression


No idea.

I have access to a drying mooring for the winter - on soft Salcombe
mud


will the boat be happy until Christmas


Dylan




--
"j" ganz @@
www.sailnow.com

Thanks for cutlass advice

boat is ashore

we can run a hose pipe into the intake for the engine to keep it cool

all I want to do is to hear it start

water in the rudder - hmmmm

think its wood

Dylan

"dylan winter" wrote in message
ps.com...
Thanks for cutlass advice

boat is ashore

we can run a hose pipe into the intake for the engine to keep it cool

all I want to do is to hear it start

water in the rudder - hmmmm

think its wood

Dylan




Ah... ok. Sounds like you've got in control then...

--
"j" ganz @@
www.sailnow.com

On Thu, 01 Nov 2007 12:51:17 -0700, dylan winter
wrote:

all I want to do is to hear it start

That's a mistake. You really need to see it running under heavy load
to assess the cooling system and other potential issues like leakage,
vibration, loose engine mounts, etc.

don't think bloke will let me launch it to test it under load

will have to take a chance but assume as long as it starts, runs
pretty smoothly and does not seem to threaten to shake itself off the
engine mounts then that is a good start

D

"Dave" wrote in message
...
On Thu, 1 Nov 2007 12:47:25 -0700, "Capt. JG"
said:

but
how are you going to start the engine if the boat is on the hard as in the
picture?

Two possible answers. First, starting the engine and running it briefly
with
no cooling water isn't going to let the engine get warm enough to damage
it.
Any decent surveyor surveying a boat on the hard will do that. Second, if
you need to run it longer get a bucket of cold water and stick the cooling
water intake in the bucket. I do it every year when changing the oil after
hauling.


Certainly true. I just don't know of a boat owner who would allow someone to
do it. There's always a risk of overheating/damage.

--
"j" ganz @@
www.sailnow.com

On Thu, 01 Nov 2007 13:56:12 -0700, dylan winter
wrote:

don't think bloke will let me launch it to test it under load

Then find another bloke and boat, or insist on an escrow account to be
used for hidden damage.

dylan winter wrote:
Friends

I am going to see this boat tomorrow


http://www.boatsandoutboards.co.uk/view/F156297


Van de Stadt designed 2 = 2 Diesel Yacht re-engined 2005 with brand
new Volvo MD1, new(2005) stainless steel fuel tank, new sea toilet
with 2006 fitted sea valves. NASA echo sounder, well fitted out with
usual fittings, sails in good condition, Includes BIC dinghy

Check with Volvo whether the MD1 was available new in 2005. I could be wrong
but the Volvos were named "2000 series" since 1985 (or earlier) and I didn't
think they carried on making the MD series after that.

Hope I'm wrong!

Dennis.

Dylan,

Boats are expensive. In the US there is a profession known as the Boat
Surveyor. Perhaps there is something similar where you are. It sounds as if
you are about to buy a boat without having the ability to make sound
judgements. Perhaps you would like to buy a used car as well, I'd be happy
to sell you one.

Dave M.