"Tim" wrote:

Guys, I'm in a little confusion here. I've run an alternator shop
for
the past 30 years, but rest assured, I don't claim to know
everything.
snip

I was going to jump all over you until you included the Leece-Neville
product line.G

In my misspent youth, was a L/N design engineer.

Yes you can run a L/N at full output all day long.

At least you could when I was part of the design team.

Yes, most L/N units require a dual belt drive, especially 100A units.

My comment about Yanmar units was based on my experience in my past
life.

Lew

Lew Hodgett wrote:


In my misspent youth, was a L/N design engineer.

Yes you can run a L/N at full output all day long.

Well Lew,

I've seen many a 130A L/N come in with stators fried to a crisp due to
rotten batteries and/or dubious ground cables. (but usually the pos.
rectifier was toast too!)

so.......

?; *)

"Tim" wrote:

Well Lew,

I've seen many a 130A L/N come in with stators fried to a crisp due
to
rotten batteries and/or dubious ground cables. (but usually the
pos.
rectifier was toast too!)

so.......

?; *)

When the system goes South, all bets are off, especially when field
control becomes suspect due to external conditions.

Lew

Lew Hodgett wrote:

When the system goes South, all bets are off, especially when field
control becomes suspect due to external conditions.

Lew

i can appreciate that. But then again, I also had a customer that was
buying 70a. JBs
and putting them on a kenworth, and wondered why he was burning them
up. found out the guy was pulling an average 116A load, with all his
"chicken lights" etc.
They "looked" the same as a 130 amp JB series, but obviously the
innards wern't strong enough. But he was getting them cheap from some
supply house's "overstock special".

No, he wasn't getting what he was paying for.

but the price was right...... LOL!

"Tim" wrote:

i can appreciate that. But then again, I also had a customer that
was
buying 70a. JBs
and putting them on a kenworth, and wondered why he was burning them
up. found out the guy was pulling an average 116A load, with all his
"chicken lights" etc.

No free lunch is there?

They "looked" the same as a 130 amp JB series, but obviously the
innards wern't strong enough. But he was getting them cheap from
some
supply house's "overstock special".

No, he wasn't getting what he was paying for.

but the price was right...... LOL!

You love to see cheap skates getting it broken off them.

Lew

On Oct 16, 7:08 pm, "Lew Hodgett" wrote:
"Tim" wrote:
i can appreciate that. But then again, I also had a customer that
was
buying 70a. JBs
and putting them on a kenworth, and wondered why he was burning them
up. found out the guy was pulling an average 116A load, with all his
"chicken lights" etc.

No free lunch is there?



They "looked" the same as a 130 amp JB series, but obviously the
innards wern't strong enough. But he was getting them cheap from
some
supply house's "overstock special".

No, he wasn't getting what he was paying for.

but the price was right...... LOL!

You love to see cheap skates getting it broken off them.

Lew

LOL!

Ye olde "pay me now, or pay me later"

On Tue, 16 Oct 2007 13:30:16 -0700, Tim wrote:

I've seen many a 130A L/N come in with stators fried to a crisp due to
rotten batteries and/or dubious ground cables. (but usually the pos.
rectifier was toast too!)

I have seen many a fusable link in an alternator output wire. How do
you fry electrical goods with a proper fuse in place? You don't. I
thought there was a voltage regulator. That doesn't protect the
alternator?

Casady

On Fri, 30 Nov 2007 21:08:04 GMT, (Richard
Casady) wrote:

On Tue, 16 Oct 2007 13:30:16 -0700, Tim wrote:

I've seen many a 130A L/N come in with stators fried to a crisp due to
rotten batteries and/or dubious ground cables. (but usually the pos.
rectifier was toast too!)

I have seen many a fusable link in an alternator output wire. How do
you fry electrical goods with a proper fuse in place? You don't. I
thought there was a voltage regulator. That doesn't protect the
alternator?

Casady

No, the normal alternator regulator simply controls the output of the
alternator in reference to battery voltage. Low battery voltage high
output, high voltage low output.

Bruce-in-Bangkok
(Note:remove underscores
from address for reply)

On Sat, 01 Dec 2007 07:43:08 +0700, Bruce in Bangkok
wrote:

On Fri, 30 Nov 2007 21:08:04 GMT, (Richard
Casady) wrote:

On Tue, 16 Oct 2007 13:30:16 -0700, Tim wrote:

I've seen many a 130A L/N come in with stators fried to a crisp due to
rotten batteries and/or dubious ground cables. (but usually the pos.
rectifier was toast too!)

I have seen many a fusable link in an alternator output wire. How do
you fry electrical goods with a proper fuse in place? You don't. I
thought there was a voltage regulator. That doesn't protect the
alternator?

Casady

No, the normal alternator regulator simply controls the output of the
alternator in reference to battery voltage. Low battery voltage high
output, high voltage low output.

It must not be so simple/cheap to regulate current, or they would
probably do it. They do put in that dirt cheap fusable link.

Casady

"Richard Casady" wrote:

It must not be so simple/cheap to regulate current, or they would
probably do it. They do put in that dirt cheap fusable link.

Just takes money AKA: Larger conductors, AKA: More copper.

Using system voltage to control field current (usually no more than 5Amps),
thus controlling alternator output, is very straight forward.

If a bad battery, or a defective cable, wipes out an alternator, that's not
the alternator's fault, that's a system problem, IMHO.

Lew