On Tue, 4 Sep 2007 19:26:01 -0700, "Lew Hodgett"
wrote:

"Wayne.B" wrote:

If you tin it yourself with a soldering iron when it is still new
and
shinny you shouldn't have too many problems. Once it goes to green
grunge however, fuhgetabahdit.

That must be some solder tinning process that allows you to tin a
cable, 6" back under the insulation with out damaging the insulation.

No need for that in my experience, just tin the part that is stripped
where the connection is going to be, and seal the gap with heat shrink
tubing to keep moisture out.

"Wayne.B" wrote:

No need for that in my experience, just tin the part that is
stripped
where the connection is going to be, and seal the gap with heat
shrink
tubing to keep moisture out.

You are kidding yourself.

Soldering or "tinning" wire before installing a mechanical crimp
connection, defeats the primary function of a mechanically crimped
connection.

Sealing with "goo" and shrink tape also fails to truly address the
problem which is quite similar to the solid aluminum conductor
problems of the 70s.

Under load, heat develops which not only reduces the affiance of the
mechanical connection, but further reduces the affiance further till
failure.

The failure with untinned wire develops about 3"-5" back from the
connection when the wire melts.

Was told by a guy who conducted the "boat autopsy" for a boat the
insurance company hired him to investigate.

It was a large gas powered boat that had been rewired with 4/0 welding
cable, with the cables routed over the top of the gas tanks.

Needless to say, the boat was a total loss and the insurance company
declined to cover the loss.

Lew