Wayne.B wrote:

Smaller boats without shore power
connectors usually carry an adapter which converts a 30 amp twist
lock
plug into a conventional 15 amp socket.

"Larry" wrote:

There's an interesting discussion that needs to be aired out.......
snip

Why?

You plug an "adaptor" into the 50A receptacle, then you plug a 50 ft,
12-2 with ground extension into the "adaptor", then plug in the hot
plate that you leave on the dock.

If you develop a short, the magnetic portion of the 50A c'bkr will
clear the fault.

If you develop an overload that is less than 50A, first something will
start to smell. then smoke, then burn.

No, the magnetic portion of the 50A c'bkr will NOT clear the fault,
but so what?

Pull the plug, let the faulty device cool down, then scrap.

No boat caught fire, no one got electrocuted.

If you are foolish enough to walk away from your boat, with an
electrical load connected and operating, you deserve what ever
happens.

SFWIW, NEC is concerned about the insulation on the conductors of the
distribution system which does not include temporary extension
cordage.

Lew

On Wed, 05 Sep 2007 03:23:14 +0000, Larry wrote:

There are lots of "splitters", even provided by the marina staff!, to
plug your 20 or 30A boat into this 50A branch circuit.....still a
violation as far as I am concerned.

And you're gonna SLEEP in there?!

Larry
--
Why bother to put breakers on the dock at all??

The circuit breaker can be on the boat and it will work. The entire
circuit carries the same current, after all.

Casady

"Wayne.B" wrote:

You might do better if you buy the wire at Home Despot or Lowes and
put on your own connectors. I know that HD used to sell yellow, heavy
duty multi-conductor cable. If not you should be able to order it
from any good electrical supplier.

Problem is that is not marine grade hardware is not found at your local DIY
or dood industrial electrical distributer.

Marine grade electrical is strictly a speciality business.

Marine graide uses fully tinned cable and the connector devices are also
receive special plating.

Lack of volume drives up the cost, not greed as you might expect.

Want some bedtime horror stories?

Chase down the history of problems attempting to use welding cable for
onboard applications.

Hint: Welding cable is not tinned.


Lew

On Tue, 4 Sep 2007 16:18:59 -0700, "Lew Hodgett"
wrote:

Chase down the history of problems attempting to use welding cable for
onboard applications.

Hint: Welding cable is not tinned.

If you tin it yourself with a soldering iron when it is still new and
shinny you shouldn't have too many problems. Once it goes to green
grunge however, fuhgetabahdit.

"Wayne.B" wrote:

If you tin it yourself with a soldering iron when it is still new
and
shinny you shouldn't have too many problems. Once it goes to green
grunge however, fuhgetabahdit.

That must be some solder tinning process that allows you to tin a
cable, 6" back under the insulation with out damaging the insulation.

Lew

"Lew Hodgett" wrote in news:13ds4tqoa3rqd48
@corp.supernews.com:


"Wayne.B" wrote:

If you tin it yourself with a soldering iron when it is still new
and
shinny you shouldn't have too many problems. Once it goes to green
grunge however, fuhgetabahdit.

That must be some solder tinning process that allows you to tin a
cable, 6" back under the insulation with out damaging the insulation.

Lew




I'm still wondering how they make a $600 cable so flexible if it's ALL
TINNED....??

Larry
--
Search youtube for "Depleted Uranium"
The ultimate dirty bomb......

On Tue, 4 Sep 2007 19:26:01 -0700, "Lew Hodgett"
wrote:

"Wayne.B" wrote:

If you tin it yourself with a soldering iron when it is still new
and
shinny you shouldn't have too many problems. Once it goes to green
grunge however, fuhgetabahdit.

That must be some solder tinning process that allows you to tin a
cable, 6" back under the insulation with out damaging the insulation.

No need for that in my experience, just tin the part that is stripped
where the connection is going to be, and seal the gap with heat shrink
tubing to keep moisture out.

On Tue, 04 Sep 2007 05:40:09 +0000, in message

Larry wrote:

My buddy Joe's Jenneau 42 has two electrical systems, the original 220VAC
from France that runs the fridge and battery charger, and a simple 115VAC
system to power some internal American outlets and the MarineAir A/C box.

How about installing an onboard transformer to bump up the voltage for
the European fridge and charger? Unless the draw is huge that could be
a cost effective solution that you can power off the existing North
American connection. If the orange #14 hasn't melted yet, then it
can't be too big a load.

Ryk

Ryk wrote in
:

On Tue, 04 Sep 2007 05:40:09 +0000, in message

Larry wrote:

My buddy Joe's Jenneau 42 has two electrical systems, the original
220VAC from France that runs the fridge and battery charger, and a
simple 115VAC system to power some internal American outlets and the
MarineAir A/C box.

How about installing an onboard transformer to bump up the voltage for
the European fridge and charger? Unless the draw is huge that could be
a cost effective solution that you can power off the existing North
American connection. If the orange #14 hasn't melted yet, then it
can't be too big a load.

Ryk



That's also being submitted to the owner. We had a small transformer on
Lionheart, an Amel Sharki, for the fridge until we replaced it with a new
one. I've converted all its 220VAC outlets to 115 American, now.

Larry
--
Search youtube for "Depleted Uranium"
The ultimate dirty bomb......