Home |
Search |
Today's Posts |
|
#1
![]()
posted to rec.boats.cruising
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
Well, Joe, that certainly establishes you as our resident filter expert. I
believe you 100%. Now that it's clear that we are having an informed and intelligent discussion, let me get more precise and specific to my situation. "Joe" wrote A vortex is made in the bowl that helps seperate the water from the fuel. This is clear from the design of the filter housing. The key word in your statement is "helps". The issue is how much the help is. If it is 80% - 90%, you could say that the separator is essentially worthless at low flow rates. If it is something like 10% it is not going to be critical in most applications were simple gravity driven separation will do a lot of the work. Running crew boats with their notoriously wet fuel (that I've heard about from others), wringing maximum performance out of the filters could be a significant operational consideration. At best, you might still be wishing the filters were doing a better job. That last 10% of performance might be quite noticable. I saw no hint of water or other contamination for two seasons. Considering how little attention most boaters up here pay to the subject (just saying, "do whatever it need" to the yard once a year), and how few I see being towed in, it's probably typical for this climate and fuel infrastructure. When I look at the smallest filter housing, I see that it is rated for 15 GPH. Scaling it down to preserve the same flow dynamics at the less than 1 GPH I'm usually drawing would make it so small that the filter wouldn't last long. It would have to be a completely different design, a swirl separator, a separate chamber for water to collect, and a larger filter housing. I'm not likely to get "swirl boost" out of stock Racors anyway at flow rates less than 1/15 th of maximum. The simple gravity separation will be more effective in a larger volume and slower flow, that's why some vessels use day and even separator tanks. A larger filter will last longer. That's why I don't see a downside to larger filters in my fairly common situation. For a crewboat, or a yacht picking up lots of third world fuel in a similar climate, no doubt in my mind that you are spot on about the proper sizing. The jury is out for me on additives. A yard manager with a lot of credibility told me not to put anything in my fuel so I didn't for two years. Then, I had just a few hiccups in an otherwise smooth running engine with a nearly empty tank and began to find alge in the filter bowl. I put in the StarTon and the bowl filled up with green stuff and the filter turned green black although the engine ran fine. One tank of fuel after the filter change, the bowl is clear. It certainly looks as if stuff was flushed out of the tank that would otherwise be building up. Keeping it moving through to the filter in smaller amounts instead of building up so that a big glob gets sucked up in rough seas, which is when it invariably happens, seems like a good idea. -- Roger Long |
#2
![]()
posted to rec.boats.cruising
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
I wonder also if this flow issue factors into the filter size debate that
has gone on here an other places. 2 micron filters would reduce the flow rate and thus the effectiveness of the water separation. In a situation where you were just barely getting enough water out of the fuel, passing some particles on the the secondary filter(s) might be important. Also, if filters are operating close to maximum flow, they won't be able to hold as much before needing replacement. Secondary filters, which are not also called on to separate water, would then be the best place to deal with the finer particles. In a situation like mine, where water is an insignificant problem, the smallest filter I can buy is way oversize for the optimum flow rate, and the secondary is a real bitch to change out, continuing to run 2 micron elements in the primary makes sense to me. What do you think, Joe? -- Roger Long |
#3
![]()
posted to rec.boats.cruising
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
On Jul 30, 10:23 am, "Roger Long" wrote:
I wonder also if this flow issue factors into the filter size debate that has gone on here an other places. 2 micron filters would reduce the flow rate and thus the effectiveness of the water separation. In a situation where you were just barely getting enough water out of the fuel, passing some particles on the the secondary filter(s) might be important. Also, if filters are operating close to maximum flow, they won't be able to hold as much before needing replacement. Secondary filters, which are not also called on to separate water, would then be the best place to deal with the finer particles. In a situation like mine, where water is an insignificant problem, the smallest filter I can buy is way oversize for the optimum flow rate, and the secondary is a real bitch to change out, continuing to run 2 micron elements in the primary makes sense to me. What do you think, Joe? -- Roger Long Seems your additive is making the alge smaller, and water particles smaller, so I'd stick with finer filters. The alge growth is not effected much by water in the fuel. Your problem is due to fuel sitting to long in the tank and degrading. Todays diesel is far more unstable than it was 15-20 years ago due to all the catalytic cracking to squeeze more out of a barrel of crude. What we call alge is really tar and wax ect..ect..seperating from the light oil and forming globs. Best thing you can do is use your fuel up asap, or install a polishing system. I'd suggest lots of motor sailing for you.. and a 12 pack of filters. Joe |
#4
![]()
posted to rec.boats.cruising
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
On Mon, 30 Jul 2007 07:58:05 -0400, "Roger Long"
wrote: The jury is out for me on additives. A yard manager with a lot of credibility told me not to put anything in my fuel so I didn't for two years. Then, I had just a few hiccups in an otherwise smooth running engine with a nearly empty tank and began to find alge in the filter bowl. I put in the StarTon and the bowl filled up with green stuff and the filter turned green black although the engine ran fine. One tank of fuel after the filter change, the bowl is clear. It certainly looks as if stuff was flushed out of the tank that would otherwise be building up. Keeping it moving through to the filter in smaller amounts instead of building up so that a big glob gets sucked up in rough seas, which is when it invariably happens, seems like a good idea. Fuel isues on a commercial boat are very different than pleasure craft. Commercial boats are in use almost every day, rarely sitting around idle for any length of time. They are constantly taking on fresh fuel with very high turnover rates. Pleasure craft are almost totally the opposite with infrequent usage for the most part. As a result fuel sits around in the tank for long periods of time and even trace amounts of moisture become a breeding ground for diesel bugs. Check the archives of the "Trawlers and Trawlering" (T & T) mailing list. Fuel conditioning, fuel polishing and filtration are *very* hot topics. Google search -- site:samurai.com fuel filters or fuel polishing, fuel conditioning, etc. http://www.google.com/search?hl=en&q...=Google+Search |
Reply |
Thread Tools | Search this Thread |
Display Modes | |
|
|
![]() |
||||
Thread | Forum | |||
Need picture of fuel jet and fuel filter location | General | |||
Cant get fuel pump to prime after changing fuel filter | General | |||
Fuel Filter | General | |||
Fuel Filter | Boat Building | |||
Oil filter vs fuel filter? | General |