A bit of advice would be appreciated.

I use two 5m Zodiacs as part of a SCUBA club but we seem to have
continuous problems caused by water in fuel.

We currently have sealed metal fuel filters mounted on the transoms of
the boats however as these are sealed it is not possible to see what is
going on, if water is accumulating etc.

I have been thinking about changing these for clear plastic filters
(also transon mounted) with valves on the bottom to drain any
water/crud.

Has anyone had any experience of using these type of filters in this
environment and have anything to recomend or steer clear of?

Also is the plastic stong enough to withstand rough treatment of both
divers and their equipment!? If not it might be necessary to construct
some sort of cage around the filter.

All advice gratefully recieved

Anthony

ajw wrote:
A bit of advice would be appreciated.

I use two 5m Zodiacs as part of a SCUBA club but we seem to have
continuous problems caused by water in fuel.

We currently have sealed metal fuel filters mounted on the transoms of
the boats however as these are sealed it is not possible to see what is
going on, if water is accumulating etc.

I have been thinking about changing these for clear plastic filters
(also transon mounted) with valves on the bottom to drain any
water/crud.

Has anyone had any experience of using these type of filters in this
environment and have anything to recomend or steer clear of?

Also is the plastic stong enough to withstand rough treatment of both
divers and their equipment!? If not it might be necessary to construct
some sort of cage around the filter.

All advice gratefully recieved

Anthony



Start with this link:

http://www.parker.com/EAD/displayCat...&sMode=Details

You need what's called a water separator ... includes a filter, but
water collects in the bowl. Remove (unscrew) the bowl now and then to
remove the water. Head down to any marine supply shop, they'll set you
up.

The link the Chuck sent you is a good place to get a top of the line fuel
filter/water separator set up. Since you have already thought about the
concerns of the plastic bowl set-up, no more needs to be said except that
metal blows are available from Racor as you can see. However, there some
other alternatives. It sounds like you already have filter separators, the
transom mounted spin-ons are usually 10 micron filters/ water separators
that function the same as the spin-on Racor replacement elements. ( am
referring to the Racor elements that will screw on to your existing heads).
The main difference in their functionality is the Racor's ability to be
drained via a pet cock. With your existing spin-ons you can just spin them
off and dump them in a bucket. If you do this, be sure to put the elements
back on ASAP as the rubber gaskets starts to swell quickly once removed
making their refitting a problem.
But what I would be most concerned about is what is causing the water
problem in the first place? Maybe you have an above deck poly tank? if so,
then pay some attention the vent. If it can be closed, then close it while
not underway. If the tank is constantly being splashed with water then
something to deflect the splash, maybe have some vinyl tank covers made or
maybe some simple plywood covers like an inverted box that could also be
used as a seat?. I think with some "looking into" you will find a better
solution than just being able to more conveniently drain a bowl. Anyway, I
don't think better(more expensive) filters are necessarily the answer to the
problem.

--
Ron White
Boat building web address is
www.concentric.net/~knotreel

"Ron White" wrote in message
. ..
The link the Chuck sent you is a good place to get a top of the line fuel
filter/water separator set up. Since you have already thought about the
concerns of the plastic bowl set-up, no more needs to be said except that
metal blows are available from Racor as you can see. However, there some
other alternatives. It sounds like you already have filter separators, the
transom mounted spin-ons are usually 10 micron filters/ water separators
that function the same as the spin-on Racor replacement elements. ( am
referring to the Racor elements that will screw on to your existing
heads).
The main difference in their functionality is the Racor's ability to be
drained via a pet cock. With your existing spin-ons you can just spin them
off and dump them in a bucket. If you do this, be sure to put the elements
back on ASAP as the rubber gaskets starts to swell quickly once removed
making their refitting a problem.
But what I would be most concerned about is what is causing the water
problem in the first place? Maybe you have an above deck poly tank? if so,
then pay some attention the vent. If it can be closed, then close it while
not underway. If the tank is constantly being splashed with water then
something to deflect the splash, maybe have some vinyl tank covers made or
maybe some simple plywood covers like an inverted box that could also be
used as a seat?. I think with some "looking into" you will find a better
solution than just being able to more conveniently drain a bowl. Anyway, I
don't think better(more expensive) filters are necessarily the answer to
the
problem.

--
Ron White
Boat building web address is
www.concentric.net/~knotreel

And if all else fails try a "water removing" diesel additive. I am not sure
what it will do to the carbs (if the engine is not injected), but if it gets
water through diesel filters then I recon it will pass it straight through a
petrol fuel system.

If your filter/water separator has a drain plug on it, it should an almost
daily routine to draw a sample to see how much water is in the bowl. The
only think is that I do not think I would like petrol fumes sloshing about
in the bottom of the boat, but I assume its open without sparks &
flames, so it is not as bad as in an enclosed boat.


--
Tony Brooks
www.TB-Training.co.uk

ajw wrote:
A bit of advice would be appreciated.

I use two 5m Zodiacs as part of a SCUBA club but we seem to have
continuous problems caused by water in fuel.

We currently have sealed metal fuel filters mounted on the transoms of
the boats however as these are sealed it is not possible to see what
is going on, if water is accumulating etc.

I have been thinking about changing these for clear plastic filters
(also transon mounted) with valves on the bottom to drain any
water/crud.

Has anyone had any experience of using these type of filters in this
environment and have anything to recomend or steer clear of?

Also is the plastic stong enough to withstand rough treatment of both
divers and their equipment!? If not it might be necessary to construct
some sort of cage around the filter.

All advice gratefully recieved

Anthony

In addition to what others have said, topping the fuel tanks at the end of
the day will help eliminate condensation inside the tanks.

--
I don't care to belong to a club that accepts people like me as
members. Groucho Marx

"Scraggy" wrote in
:

In addition to what others have said, topping the fuel tanks at the
end of the day will help eliminate condensation inside the tanks.



Oh, no. They'd never do that. They park the boat for weeks with the tanks
empty just so it can breathe in all those wet night airs and rot the bottom
out of the tank.

You're talking about something that takes real work on their parts, landing
twice with the fuel dockage, when they're all tired out from sailing all
day with a boat now filled with grumpy, drunk passengers who want to go
ASHORE...and who will abandon the captain to dock himself at his slip
because the fuel dock is SO close to the parking lot!...(c;

No wonder they don't stop to fill up and prevent condensation......

Larry wrote:
"Scraggy" wrote in
:

In addition to what others have said, topping the fuel tanks at the
end of the day will help eliminate condensation inside the tanks.



Oh, no. They'd never do that. They park the boat for weeks with the
tanks empty just so it can breathe in all those wet night airs and
rot the bottom out of the tank.

You're talking about something that takes real work on their parts,
landing twice with the fuel dockage, when they're all tired out from
sailing all day with a boat now filled with grumpy, drunk passengers
who want to go ASHORE...and who will abandon the captain to dock
himself at his slip because the fuel dock is SO close to the parking
lot!...(c;

No wonder they don't stop to fill up and prevent condensation......

I have to agree, life is a bitch.

--
I don't care to belong to a club that accepts people like me as
members. Groucho Marx

Well...it seems that just because one draws off the water/contaminates from
the bottom of the fuel filter bowl, doesn't mean that one should just let it
drain into the bilge. Draining it into a cup/bottle (i.e. that won't 'melt'
from the diesel fuel). Also, Diesel is significantly different from
Petrol/Gasoline...one can pretty much put out a cigarette in diesel while
this is not very adviseable with gasoline.

Glenn.

"Tony Brooks" wrote in message
...

"Ron White" wrote in message
. ..
The link the Chuck sent you is a good place to get a top of the line
fuel
filter/water separator set up. Since you have already thought about the
concerns of the plastic bowl set-up, no more needs to be said except
that
metal blows are available from Racor as you can see. However, there some
other alternatives. It sounds like you already have filter separators,
the
transom mounted spin-ons are usually 10 micron filters/ water separators
that function the same as the spin-on Racor replacement elements. ( am
referring to the Racor elements that will screw on to your existing
heads).
The main difference in their functionality is the Racor's ability to be
drained via a pet cock. With your existing spin-ons you can just spin
them
off and dump them in a bucket. If you do this, be sure to put the
elements
back on ASAP as the rubber gaskets starts to swell quickly once removed
making their refitting a problem.
But what I would be most concerned about is what is causing the water
problem in the first place? Maybe you have an above deck poly tank? if
so,
then pay some attention the vent. If it can be closed, then close it
while
not underway. If the tank is constantly being splashed with water then
something to deflect the splash, maybe have some vinyl tank covers made
or
maybe some simple plywood covers like an inverted box that could also be
used as a seat?. I think with some "looking into" you will find a better
solution than just being able to more conveniently drain a bowl. Anyway,
I
don't think better(more expensive) filters are necessarily the answer to
the
problem.

--
Ron White
Boat building web address is
www.concentric.net/~knotreel

And if all else fails try a "water removing" diesel additive. I am not
sure
what it will do to the carbs (if the engine is not injected), but if it
gets
water through diesel filters then I recon it will pass it straight through
a
petrol fuel system.

If your filter/water separator has a drain plug on it, it should an almost
daily routine to draw a sample to see how much water is in the bowl. The
only think is that I do not think I would like petrol fumes sloshing about
in the bottom of the boat, but I assume its open without sparks &
flames, so it is not as bad as in an enclosed boat.


--
Tony Brooks
www.TB-Training.co.uk

The modern plastics on fuel filters are made for commecial mishandeling
I have used them in engine rooms and lorrys. if you can see water you
can drain it. test the fittings and polycarbonate bowles by smacking
them with air bottles etc on dry land if it breakes you have lost the
fitting but the alternatives are still available alloy etc. good luck
ajw wrote:
A bit of advice would be appreciated.

I use two 5m Zodiacs as part of a SCUBA club but we seem to have
continuous problems caused by water in fuel.

We currently have sealed metal fuel filters mounted on the transoms of
the boats however as these are sealed it is not possible to see what is
going on, if water is accumulating etc.

I have been thinking about changing these for clear plastic filters
(also transon mounted) with valves on the bottom to drain any
water/crud.

Has anyone had any experience of using these type of filters in this
environment and have anything to recomend or steer clear of?

Also is the plastic stong enough to withstand rough treatment of both
divers and their equipment!? If not it might be necessary to construct
some sort of cage around the filter.

All advice gratefully recieved

Anthony