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#21
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posted to rec.boats.cruising
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On Jul 28, 4:55 pm, "Roger Long" wrote:
I don't think it's original and I've never seen any water. What I need is to find instructions or specs for one of these filters. I tried Google but, no luck. -- Roger Long Bought by parker, but I would imagine they have old flow charts around, drop a dime. Racor 3400 Finch Road Modesto, CA 95354 Telephone: 209-521-7860 Fax: 209-575-7614 e-Mail: |
#22
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posted to rec.boats.cruising
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![]() If you use any of the standard fuel treatments, and if they work, you shouldn't see water, as they all contain emulsifiers. You are over-obsessing; forget all filters, go sailing. ![]() On Jul 28, 2:55 pm, "Roger Long" wrote: I don't think it's original and I've never seen any water. What I need is to find instructions or specs for one of these filters. I tried Google but, no luck. -- Roger Long |
#23
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posted to rec.boats.cruising
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On 2007-07-28 16:00:57 -0400, "Roger Long" said:
Interesting point about the proper flow to make the water separator work. I wonder if this on is in the proper range at about 1 gallon per hour. Our yard put in the 500 for our similar engine. Remember that you probably have more fuel flowing than what you're burning, most of it circulating back to the tank. If we didn't have that circulation, we'd *really* have a critter problem, as we burn only about a third of a gallon per hour, about 10 gallons a year. -- Jere Lull Tanzer 28 #4 out of Tolchester, MD Xan's new pages: http://web.mac.com/jerelull/iWeb/Xan/ Our BVI pages: http://homepage.mac.com/jerelull/BVI/ |
#24
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posted to rec.boats.cruising
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An interesting thing about the Yanmar 2QM series is that there is no return
line back to the tank. Evidently, the injector bypass just circulates back as far as the injector pump on the engine. It is an unusually cool running engine for a diesel so maybe that helps avoid the fuel getting too hot. Flow through the filter is whatever fuel consumption is. Just out of curiosity, I'm going to look at recommended flow rates on some separator filters but I'll be surprised if any go as low as 1 gph. It's appears to be a centrifugal process judging by the spiral grooves I see on some of the filter housings so it must take a reasonable flow. Just out of curiosity, I'm going to look at recommended flow rates on some separator filters but I'll be surprised if any go that low. Chris had a good point, now that I'm putting an emulsifier (StarTron/Soltron) in the fuel, The water isn't going to separate out anyway. -- Roger Long |
#25
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posted to rec.boats.cruising
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![]() wrote You are over-obsessing..... Isn't that what this group is for? -- Roger Long |
#26
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posted to rec.boats.cruising
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Hmm, no minumum flow rates indicated on the Racor site specifications page
for water separator filters. -- Roger Long |
#27
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posted to rec.boats.cruising
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On Jul 29, 4:55 am, "Roger Long" wrote:
An interesting thing about the Yanmar 2QM series is that there is no return line back to the tank. Evidently, the injector bypass just circulates back as far as the injector pump on the engine. It is an unusually cool running engine for a diesel so maybe that helps avoid the fuel getting too hot. Flow through the filter is whatever fuel consumption is. Just out of curiosity, I'm going to look at recommended flow rates on some separator filters but I'll be surprised if any go as low as 1 gph. It's appears to be a centrifugal process judging by the spiral grooves I see on some of the filter housings so it must take a reasonable flow. Just out of curiosity, I'm going to look at recommended flow rates on some separator filters but I'll be surprised if any go that low. Chris had a good point, now that I'm putting an emulsifier (StarTron/Soltron) in the fuel, The water isn't going to separate out anyway. -- Roger Long Quick Question: Just where oh where is the water going to go to? Emulsified out of existance? I'm getting into your fuel problem a bit late Roger, whats up? You got alge problems? How long has the fuel been on your boat? How many gallons do your tanks hold? What are your tanks made of ? Do you have access through an inspection plate? Tanks baffled? In the USA the major source of water in your fuel is condensation of the moisture in the air in the tank, collection on the tank top then dripping into the fuel. Best way to keep moisture out with the boat sitting most the time is to keep your tanks pressed full. Alge killers present thier own problems and none do a proper job IMO. Your options are to slosh out the alge and buy filters by the case until it's all gone, or clean the tank. Once I picked up a 120' crewboat that had been in Mexico for 3 years and had the worst alge problem in a fuel tank that ever existed, so bad the water traps would not drain due to getting clogged with alge, had to poke the drain spigots with a hanger wire to break the crap up to drain the water. We used up a couple grand in filters before we got it cleaned up, we burned 180 GPH, with a 4000 gallon tankage. The boat had aluminum tanks that were the deck in the passenger area that was always kept cold, the boat rocking and sloshing allowed the tanks to breath in and out moist air all the time, creating massive amounts of water due to condensing on the tank tops. So what's it like to go that deep under the ocean? Joe |
#28
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posted to rec.boats.cruising
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On Jul 29, 5:17 am, "Roger Long" wrote:
Hmm, no minumum flow rates indicated on the Racor site specifications page for water separator filters. -- Roger Long I found info on the larger units Roger, but I feel you are going to have to call Parker/Racor and ask an application engineer for the info on the older systems. I'd be interested myself to the flow ratings on the old 2000 filter housings. V -- How to Order The example below illustrates how part numbers are constructed. 1000MA M P 2 Specify Model (see chart below): 500MA1 900MA2 1000MA2 75500MAX1 75900MAX3 751000MAX3 731000MA4 771000MA5 791000MAV4 Add M for a metal bowl instead of the standard see--thru polymer bowl. (Omit if not desired) Add P for a water sensor probe6 (Omit if not desired) Add a micron rating: 2, 10, or 30 (The smaller the number in micron rating, the more contaminates the filter will take out of the fuel. A 2 micron filter will take out more contaminates than a 10 micron filter will.) Standard fuel ports a 1 3/4"--16 UNF (SAE J1926), 2 7/8"--14 UNF (SAE J1926), 3 7/8"--14 UNF (SAE J514), 4 3/4"--14 NPT (SAE J476) and 5 1" NPT (SAE J476). 6 Must be used withWater DetectionModule. Fittings are available from Racor -- call technical support at 800.344.3286 for assistance. Single Duplex Triplex With Isolation Valves Without Isolation Valves 75500MAX (60 GPH with one unit on--line, 120 GPH with both units on--line) 500MA (60 GPH) 900MA (90 GPH) 1000MA (180 GPH) 731000MA (360 GPH) 75900MAX (90 GPH with one unit on--line, 180 GPH with both units on--line) 751000MAX (180 GPH with one unit on--line, 360 GPH with both units on--line) With Isolation Valves Without Isolation Valves 771000MA (540 GPH) 791000MAV (180 GPH with one unit on--line, 360 GPH with two units on--line and 540 GPH with three. |
#29
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posted to rec.boats.cruising
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On Sun, 29 Jul 2007 07:20:07 -0700, Joe
wrote: Quick Question: Just where oh where is the water going to go to? Emulsified out of existance? .... Joe Quick Answer: Into the combustion chamber with the fuel, where it contributes. Brian Whatcott Altus OK |
#30
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posted to rec.boats.cruising
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"Joe" wrote
Quick Question: Just where oh where is the water going to go to? Emulsified out of existance? It will go through the engine. If the surfacant can distribute it finely enough through the fuel, it will just vaporize in the combustion process with a slight loss of performance and maybe some additional wear on the injectors. It' s when it's rolling around in slugs that go down the fuel line so that the engine tries to run on nearly pure water for short periods that you have a big trouble. I'm getting into your fuel problem a bit late Roger, whats up? You got alge problems? I haven't had any problems but am just trying to head them off. The boat was stored hauled out with fuel in it for six years before I bought it and everything had turned to jelly. The PO paid to have it all cleaned out and the tank polished. I than ran it for two and a half seasons without giving it a thought. The sediment bowl remained crystal clear until a few weeks ago when I spotted just a few specks of alge and realized it was time to start being proactive. The engine missed about three beats around this time (which prompted the look at the filter) when the tank was down to about minimum. I put in the StarTron and the sediment bowl turned immediately solid green, as it should. I changed the filters and the engine continues to purr. I find myself often motoring along close to sheer cliffs since looking at the shorline and wildlife is a major crusing objective for me. I'm planning to do this in Newfoundland after the current research vessel project is finished so I'm starting to really take an interest in the subject of keeping engines running. I've previously had a fairly casual attitude because I have those dacron "take home" engines up on the spars. My fuel tank is quite high in the hull and far from the cold hull surface so I probably don't get any significant condensation. It's not generally a big problem in this climate anyway and fuel quality is pretty good. -- Roger Long |
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