My old Raycor with its replaceable element has failed. What I see now
in the catalogs are units with spin on filters.

With the old style, when you removed the old filter, the fuel stayed
in the bowl. Put in a new filter, top up, and close it. The old
filter had almost no fuel in it, and it took almost nothing to top up.

How do the new units work? I'm imagining a procedure similar to an oil
filter replacement, except that after I remove the old, I have to fill the new
one with fuel.

--

these are really nice, I always try to drain the bowl......
http://www.defender.com/cgi-bin/Web_...ta log=301012

Marc Auslander wrote in message news:...
My old Raycor with its replaceable element has failed. What I see now
in the catalogs are units with spin on filters.

With the old style, when you removed the old filter, the fuel stayed
in the bowl. Put in a new filter, top up, and close it. The old
filter had almost no fuel in it, and it took almost nothing to top up.

How do the new units work? I'm imagining a procedure similar to an oil
filter replacement, except that after I remove the old, I have to fill the new
one with fuel.

--

these are really nice, I always try to drain the bowl......


I've had several recommendations for the Raycor 500 series. Thanks.

As a primary filter (my engine has a built in fuel filter) to you use
the 2 micron or the 10 micron element? I would think that given the
size of my engine (Yanmar 2GM) I should just use 2 micron even though
its the primary filter.

--

Several years ago I repowered my prev boat with a Yanmar 3GM. A few
weeks later I received a notice from Mack Boring that use of a filter
smaller than 30 micron places stress on the lift pump and that use
of such a filter would void the warranty. I started using a 30 micro (red)
element and changed the on-engine filter more often. This spring
while returning from the Bahamas, we lost our engine (Perkins) and
had to be towed the last few miles to Palm Beach. Turns out that
the lift pump failed. Mechanic at Ribovitch-Spencer said that it is
true that too small of a filter can cause lift pump failure. He recommended
at 30 micron as well along with changing the on-engine filter
regularly.

Doug
s/v Callista

"Marc Auslander" wrote in message
...
these are really nice, I always try to drain the bowl......


I've had several recommendations for the Raycor 500 series. Thanks.

As a primary filter (my engine has a built in fuel filter) to you use
the 2 micron or the 10 micron element? I would think that given the
size of my engine (Yanmar 2GM) I should just use 2 micron even though
its the primary filter.

--

On my Pathfinder, I use a coarse (30 micron) filter as the first in line
filter from the tank (I always forget if that is primary or secondary). The
next one is finer (a Bosch as per specs). The coarse filter does the job in
getting out the big chunks and the finer filter is working of the finer
grit. That way the filters should fill up about evenly

--
Dennis Gibbons
S/V Dark Lady
CN35-207
email: dennis dash gibbons at worldnet dot att dot net
"Doug Dotson" wrote in message
...
Several years ago I repowered my prev boat with a Yanmar 3GM. A few
weeks later I received a notice from Mack Boring that use of a filter
smaller than 30 micron places stress on the lift pump and that use
of such a filter would void the warranty. I started using a 30 micro (red)
element and changed the on-engine filter more often. This spring
while returning from the Bahamas, we lost our engine (Perkins) and
had to be towed the last few miles to Palm Beach. Turns out that
the lift pump failed. Mechanic at Ribovitch-Spencer said that it is
true that too small of a filter can cause lift pump failure. He
recommended
at 30 micron as well along with changing the on-engine filter
regularly.

Doug
s/v Callista

"Marc Auslander" wrote in message
...
these are really nice, I always try to drain the bowl......


I've had several recommendations for the Raycor 500 series. Thanks.

As a primary filter (my engine has a built in fuel filter) to you use
the 2 micron or the 10 micron element? I would think that given the
size of my engine (Yanmar 2GM) I should just use 2 micron even though
its the primary filter.

--

That's right... just like an oil filter change. Be sure to get the special
wrench to remove the bowl from the old cartridge. You can do it with a
couple of oil filter wrenches, but you'll bust a lot of knuckles and cuss a
lot.

The thing you have to think about is the cost. The spin-on elements are a
lot more expensive than the cartridges. I have a Racor 900 as my first
filter, but replaced that dual cartridge filter setup on the Lehman with a
spin-on Racor. Since I use 2 micron in both, the final filter shouldn't have
to be changed nearly as much, and I just HATED changing out those dual
cartridges. I could NEVER get them on without leaking for at least two
tries.

--


Keith
__
You start with a bag full of luck and an empty bag of experience. The trick
is to fill the bag of experience before you empty the bag of luck.
"Roy G. Biv" wrote in message
om...
these are really nice, I always try to drain the bowl......

http://www.defender.com/cgi-bin/Web_...ta log=301012

Marc Auslander wrote in message news:...
My old Raycor with its replaceable element has failed. What I see now
in the catalogs are units with spin on filters.

With the old style, when you removed the old filter, the fuel stayed
in the bowl. Put in a new filter, top up, and close it. The old
filter had almost no fuel in it, and it took almost nothing to top up.

How do the new units work? I'm imagining a procedure similar to an oil
filter replacement, except that after I remove the old, I have to fill
the new
one with fuel.

--

I use 2 micron in the primary and final. Since my fuel is clean (polishing
system) I want the primary to catch pretty much everything, since it's
easier to change. This is for a Lehman 135.

--


Keith
__
Before Xerox, five carbons were the maximum extension of anybody's ego
"Marc Auslander" wrote in message
...
these are really nice, I always try to drain the bowl......


I've had several recommendations for the Raycor 500 series. Thanks.

As a primary filter (my engine has a built in fuel filter) to you use
the 2 micron or the 10 micron element? I would think that given the
size of my engine (Yanmar 2GM) I should just use 2 micron even though
its the primary filter.

--

"Keith" wrote in message ...
I use 2 micron in the primary and final. Since my fuel is clean (polishing
system) I want the primary to catch pretty much everything, since it's
easier to change. This is for a Lehman 135.

--


Keith
__
Before Xerox, five carbons were the maximum extension of anybody's ego
"Marc Auslander" wrote in message
...
these are really nice, I always try to drain the bowl......


I've had several recommendations for the Raycor 500 series. Thanks.

As a primary filter (my engine has a built in fuel filter) to you use
the 2 micron or the 10 micron element? I would think that given the
size of my engine (Yanmar 2GM) I should just use 2 micron even though
its the primary filter.

--
Always use the filter type the manufactorer reccomends. Polishing (BS
in my opinion) or not, a filter causes restriction. You need fuel flow
in a diesel, if you restrict the flow by going to a tighter filter,
your asking for trouble unless you go to a larger filter that will
flow the correct amount of fuel. If your not getting the proper amount
of fuel flow not only will you cause wear on the pump, you will also
get reduced power output. This is simply one of those cases where more
is not better.

Get the type (filter head casting) with the integral hand operated
priming pump (plunger); or, see below.

How do the new units work? I'm imagining a procedure similar to an oil
filter replacement, except that after I remove the old, I have to fill the new
one with fuel.

Install a 12v fuel pump between the tank and the first filter. Energize
the pump with a switch.
When installing new filters, etc. turn on the pump and then sequentially
bleed all the filters, lift pump, final filter. Also serves as a
'back-up' lift pump. When not energized the integral valves in the pump
will allow the fuel delivery system to operate just as before.

Actually lift pumps on engines shouldn't be located where they are, they
should be at the tank. Then you have a positive pressure system that
cant suck air from leaky joints, etc. Additionally a positive pressure
system will vastly increase the service life of the filters!

Sorry but these 'mechanics' have it all and entirely WRONG !!!!!

Too small a filter means NOT too small a retention rating but too small
a SURFACE AREA of the filter. What kills the lift (or any other) pump is
particulate and continually working against a high differential pressure
caused by either too small or too plugged a filter.

If you have a dirty tank or a tank without a recirculation filter use:
30uM followed by 10uM followed by 2uM ... the 2uM can be the 'guard'
filter between lift and high pressure pumps.

If you double the surface area, the differential pressure needed to
operate the filter at the design flow will be HALF .... and the service
life (to plugging) will be approximately *FOUR* times longer; plus, the
particles will be stopped on the filter media! The higher the
differential pressure the greater the possibility to extrude soft and
deformable particulate through the filter media.... only to plug a finer
rated filter / orfice, etc. downstream.

Of course you MUST in all cases monitor the performance of such filters
with pressure/vacuum gauges ... and check them periodically to develop a
plot of lifetime vs. time/gallons in service and WHEN to change them.
Bigger filters will SAVE you $$$$ and 'sudden' headaches, are more cost
effective and "removal efficient" than changing out teeny (and just as
expensive) filters on a 'seasonal' basis. Change when the pressure
gauges tell you to change them, install at least the next LARGER
*surface area* filter recommended, ............ instead of waiting for
the filters to plug ... when the weather is very rough/severe, you NEED
the engine to keep moving for safety, you and your crew are
seasick/tired/terrorized/etc.... and on top of this you have to go below
and change the filters then bleed the system - all the while you're
projectile-puking great lumps into the smelly bilge. That's not my idea
of fun!

Better yet is to install a recirculation filter with an integral gravity
water knock-out pot ... then you only need a regularly sized final
filter, will have no bacteria/water/particulate/sudden power
loss/etc./etc./etc.
You can wire such a system so that the recirc. pump operates any time
the engine is operating.

Hope this helps.