My old Raycor with its replaceable element has failed. What I see now
in the catalogs are units with spin on filters.

With the old style, when you removed the old filter, the fuel stayed
in the bowl. Put in a new filter, top up, and close it. The old
filter had almost no fuel in it, and it took almost nothing to top up.

How do the new units work? I'm imagining a procedure similar to an oil
filter replacement, except that after I remove the old, I have to fill the new
one with fuel.

--

these are really nice, I always try to drain the bowl......
http://www.defender.com/cgi-bin/Web_...ta log=301012

Marc Auslander wrote in message news:...
My old Raycor with its replaceable element has failed. What I see now
in the catalogs are units with spin on filters.

With the old style, when you removed the old filter, the fuel stayed
in the bowl. Put in a new filter, top up, and close it. The old
filter had almost no fuel in it, and it took almost nothing to top up.

How do the new units work? I'm imagining a procedure similar to an oil
filter replacement, except that after I remove the old, I have to fill the new
one with fuel.

--

these are really nice, I always try to drain the bowl......


I've had several recommendations for the Raycor 500 series. Thanks.

As a primary filter (my engine has a built in fuel filter) to you use
the 2 micron or the 10 micron element? I would think that given the
size of my engine (Yanmar 2GM) I should just use 2 micron even though
its the primary filter.

--

Several years ago I repowered my prev boat with a Yanmar 3GM. A few
weeks later I received a notice from Mack Boring that use of a filter
smaller than 30 micron places stress on the lift pump and that use
of such a filter would void the warranty. I started using a 30 micro (red)
element and changed the on-engine filter more often. This spring
while returning from the Bahamas, we lost our engine (Perkins) and
had to be towed the last few miles to Palm Beach. Turns out that
the lift pump failed. Mechanic at Ribovitch-Spencer said that it is
true that too small of a filter can cause lift pump failure. He recommended
at 30 micron as well along with changing the on-engine filter
regularly.

Doug
s/v Callista

"Marc Auslander" wrote in message
...
these are really nice, I always try to drain the bowl......


I've had several recommendations for the Raycor 500 series. Thanks.

As a primary filter (my engine has a built in fuel filter) to you use
the 2 micron or the 10 micron element? I would think that given the
size of my engine (Yanmar 2GM) I should just use 2 micron even though
its the primary filter.

--

On my Pathfinder, I use a coarse (30 micron) filter as the first in line
filter from the tank (I always forget if that is primary or secondary). The
next one is finer (a Bosch as per specs). The coarse filter does the job in
getting out the big chunks and the finer filter is working of the finer
grit. That way the filters should fill up about evenly

--
Dennis Gibbons
S/V Dark Lady
CN35-207
email: dennis dash gibbons at worldnet dot att dot net
"Doug Dotson" wrote in message
...
Several years ago I repowered my prev boat with a Yanmar 3GM. A few
weeks later I received a notice from Mack Boring that use of a filter
smaller than 30 micron places stress on the lift pump and that use
of such a filter would void the warranty. I started using a 30 micro (red)
element and changed the on-engine filter more often. This spring
while returning from the Bahamas, we lost our engine (Perkins) and
had to be towed the last few miles to Palm Beach. Turns out that
the lift pump failed. Mechanic at Ribovitch-Spencer said that it is
true that too small of a filter can cause lift pump failure. He
recommended
at 30 micron as well along with changing the on-engine filter
regularly.

Doug
s/v Callista

"Marc Auslander" wrote in message
...
these are really nice, I always try to drain the bowl......


I've had several recommendations for the Raycor 500 series. Thanks.

As a primary filter (my engine has a built in fuel filter) to you use
the 2 micron or the 10 micron element? I would think that given the
size of my engine (Yanmar 2GM) I should just use 2 micron even though
its the primary filter.

--

Sorry but these 'mechanics' have it all and entirely WRONG !!!!!

Too small a filter means NOT too small a retention rating but too small
a SURFACE AREA of the filter. What kills the lift (or any other) pump is
particulate and continually working against a high differential pressure
caused by either too small or too plugged a filter.

If you have a dirty tank or a tank without a recirculation filter use:
30uM followed by 10uM followed by 2uM ... the 2uM can be the 'guard'
filter between lift and high pressure pumps.

If you double the surface area, the differential pressure needed to
operate the filter at the design flow will be HALF .... and the service
life (to plugging) will be approximately *FOUR* times longer; plus, the
particles will be stopped on the filter media! The higher the
differential pressure the greater the possibility to extrude soft and
deformable particulate through the filter media.... only to plug a finer
rated filter / orfice, etc. downstream.

Of course you MUST in all cases monitor the performance of such filters
with pressure/vacuum gauges ... and check them periodically to develop a
plot of lifetime vs. time/gallons in service and WHEN to change them.
Bigger filters will SAVE you $$$$ and 'sudden' headaches, are more cost
effective and "removal efficient" than changing out teeny (and just as
expensive) filters on a 'seasonal' basis. Change when the pressure
gauges tell you to change them, install at least the next LARGER
*surface area* filter recommended, ............ instead of waiting for
the filters to plug ... when the weather is very rough/severe, you NEED
the engine to keep moving for safety, you and your crew are
seasick/tired/terrorized/etc.... and on top of this you have to go below
and change the filters then bleed the system - all the while you're
projectile-puking great lumps into the smelly bilge. That's not my idea
of fun!

Better yet is to install a recirculation filter with an integral gravity
water knock-out pot ... then you only need a regularly sized final
filter, will have no bacteria/water/particulate/sudden power
loss/etc./etc./etc.
You can wire such a system so that the recirc. pump operates any time
the engine is operating.

Hope this helps.

I think this is what I said. Too small a filter (pore size) causes
stress on the lift pump. This is what the mechanic said and also
what the memo from Yanmar stated. A clogged filter will always
place stress on the pump. The case was told of was using a 2u
filter in a Raycor 500. I'm installing a permanent
polishing system as well.

Doug

"RichH" wrote in message
...
Sorry but these 'mechanics' have it all and entirely WRONG !!!!!

Too small a filter means NOT too small a retention rating but too small
a SURFACE AREA of the filter. What kills the lift (or any other) pump is
particulate and continually working against a high differential pressure
caused by either too small or too plugged a filter.

If you have a dirty tank or a tank without a recirculation filter use:
30uM followed by 10uM followed by 2uM ... the 2uM can be the 'guard'
filter between lift and high pressure pumps.

If you double the surface area, the differential pressure needed to
operate the filter at the design flow will be HALF .... and the service
life (to plugging) will be approximately *FOUR* times longer; plus, the
particles will be stopped on the filter media! The higher the
differential pressure the greater the possibility to extrude soft and
deformable particulate through the filter media.... only to plug a finer
rated filter / orfice, etc. downstream.

Of course you MUST in all cases monitor the performance of such filters
with pressure/vacuum gauges ... and check them periodically to develop a
plot of lifetime vs. time/gallons in service and WHEN to change them.
Bigger filters will SAVE you $$$$ and 'sudden' headaches, are more cost
effective and "removal efficient" than changing out teeny (and just as
expensive) filters on a 'seasonal' basis. Change when the pressure
gauges tell you to change them, install at least the next LARGER
*surface area* filter recommended, ............ instead of waiting for
the filters to plug ... when the weather is very rough/severe, you NEED
the engine to keep moving for safety, you and your crew are
seasick/tired/terrorized/etc.... and on top of this you have to go below
and change the filters then bleed the system - all the while you're
projectile-puking great lumps into the smelly bilge. That's not my idea
of fun!

Better yet is to install a recirculation filter with an integral gravity
water knock-out pot ... then you only need a regularly sized final
filter, will have no bacteria/water/particulate/sudden power
loss/etc./etc./etc.
You can wire such a system so that the recirc. pump operates any time
the engine is operating.

Hope this helps.

I use 2 micron in the primary and final. Since my fuel is clean (polishing
system) I want the primary to catch pretty much everything, since it's
easier to change. This is for a Lehman 135.

--


Keith
__
Before Xerox, five carbons were the maximum extension of anybody's ego
"Marc Auslander" wrote in message
...
these are really nice, I always try to drain the bowl......


I've had several recommendations for the Raycor 500 series. Thanks.

As a primary filter (my engine has a built in fuel filter) to you use
the 2 micron or the 10 micron element? I would think that given the
size of my engine (Yanmar 2GM) I should just use 2 micron even though
its the primary filter.

--

"Keith" wrote in message ...
I use 2 micron in the primary and final. Since my fuel is clean (polishing
system) I want the primary to catch pretty much everything, since it's
easier to change. This is for a Lehman 135.

--


Keith
__
Before Xerox, five carbons were the maximum extension of anybody's ego
"Marc Auslander" wrote in message
...
these are really nice, I always try to drain the bowl......


I've had several recommendations for the Raycor 500 series. Thanks.

As a primary filter (my engine has a built in fuel filter) to you use
the 2 micron or the 10 micron element? I would think that given the
size of my engine (Yanmar 2GM) I should just use 2 micron even though
its the primary filter.

--
Always use the filter type the manufactorer reccomends. Polishing (BS
in my opinion) or not, a filter causes restriction. You need fuel flow
in a diesel, if you restrict the flow by going to a tighter filter,
your asking for trouble unless you go to a larger filter that will
flow the correct amount of fuel. If your not getting the proper amount
of fuel flow not only will you cause wear on the pump, you will also
get reduced power output. This is simply one of those cases where more
is not better.

jscanlon wrote in message


--
Always use the filter type the manufactorer reccomends. Polishing (BS
in my opinion)


no bs at all...

my permanently installed independent polishing system draws about 5
gallons (100 gallon tank) every 6.5 minutes through a racor 1000 with
2 micron (can switch to racor 900 when 1000's vacuum increases)

the engine has a racor 500 with 10 micron , then racor 500 with 2
micron, then the perkins 4-108 engine mounted filter.
as rich points out the 1000 elements aren't much more expensive than
the 500 elements, don't let the 500/1000 designations throw you, the
surface area of the 1000 is MUCH greater than twice the surface area
of the 500......