Yesterday I was looking and thinking ........ maybe I should do some
painting of my deck. Fiberglass.

Anyway,, last spring I used some one part paint I got at West. It was the
best stuff; Brightside 1-Part Polyurethane Enamel

I'm sure some of you have painted fiberglass decks. What are some of the
secrets you learned while doing the work? Any tricks?

What paint did you use? How about prep? Did you work around the stanchion
bases, etc.?

The thought of taking all the hardware off the deck is ..................
&^%$#

I got to thinking, choose a small area and do that then do another area.
Try to keep the job manageable.

Any input.

Brightsides wilI fade and begin to chalk in a few years, will fill-in
non-skid, etc. Better to use a 2 part .... less work in the long-run.


n article PqyPg.4291$o1.2424@trndny04, Thomas Wentworth
wrote:

Yesterday I was looking and thinking ........ maybe I should do some
painting of my deck. Fiberglass.

Anyway,, last spring I used some one part paint I got at West. It was the
best stuff; Brightside 1-Part Polyurethane Enamel

I'm sure some of you have painted fiberglass decks. What are some of the
secrets you learned while doing the work? Any tricks?

What paint did you use? How about prep? Did you work around the stanchion
bases, etc.?

The thought of taking all the hardware off the deck is ..................
&^%$#

I got to thinking, choose a small area and do that then do another area.
Try to keep the job manageable.

Any input.

What brand two part ? .. tell me more..

-----------------------------------
"Rich Hampel" wrote in message
...
Brightsides wilI fade and begin to chalk in a few years, will fill-in
non-skid, etc. Better to use a 2 part .... less work in the long-run.


n article PqyPg.4291$o1.2424@trndny04, Thomas Wentworth
wrote:

Yesterday I was looking and thinking ........ maybe I should do some
painting of my deck. Fiberglass.

Anyway,, last spring I used some one part paint I got at West. It was
the
best stuff; Brightside 1-Part Polyurethane Enamel

I'm sure some of you have painted fiberglass decks. What are some of the
secrets you learned while doing the work? Any tricks?

What paint did you use? How about prep? Did you work around the
stanchion
bases, etc.?

The thought of taking all the hardware off the deck is ..................
&^%$#

I got to thinking, choose a small area and do that then do another area.
Try to keep the job manageable.

Any input.

On Mon, 18 Sep 2006 22:20:41 GMT, "Thomas Wentworth"
wrote:

What brand two part ? .. tell me more..

Imron, Awlgrip, or any other two part catalyzed polyurethane. Should
be sprayed. Be careful, wear breathing protection. Other than that
sprays like an acrilic enamel.

-----------------------------------
"Rich Hampel" wrote in message
...
Brightsides wilI fade and begin to chalk in a few years, will fill-in
non-skid, etc. Better to use a 2 part .... less work in the long-run.


n article PqyPg.4291$o1.2424@trndny04, Thomas Wentworth
wrote:

Yesterday I was looking and thinking ........ maybe I should do some
painting of my deck. Fiberglass.

Anyway,, last spring I used some one part paint I got at West. It was
the
best stuff; Brightside 1-Part Polyurethane Enamel

I'm sure some of you have painted fiberglass decks. What are some of the
secrets you learned while doing the work? Any tricks?

What paint did you use? How about prep? Did you work around the
stanchion
bases, etc.?

The thought of taking all the hardware off the deck is ..................
&^%$#

I got to thinking, choose a small area and do that then do another area.
Try to keep the job manageable.

Any input.

Frank ,, thanks for the input but the spraying deal won't work.. the marina
would go nuts. I did email a couple of sailors who told me how they painted
their decks with two part, used a roller and tipped with brush.

------------
"Frank Boettcher" wrote in message
...
On Mon, 18 Sep 2006 22:20:41 GMT, "Thomas Wentworth"
wrote:

What brand two part ? .. tell me more..

Imron, Awlgrip, or any other two part catalyzed polyurethane. Should
be sprayed. Be careful, wear breathing protection. Other than that
sprays like an acrilic enamel.

-----------------------------------
"Rich Hampel" wrote in message
...
Brightsides wilI fade and begin to chalk in a few years, will fill-in
non-skid, etc. Better to use a 2 part .... less work in the long-run.


n article PqyPg.4291$o1.2424@trndny04, Thomas Wentworth
wrote:

Yesterday I was looking and thinking ........ maybe I should do some
painting of my deck. Fiberglass.

Anyway,, last spring I used some one part paint I got at West. It was
the
best stuff; Brightside 1-Part Polyurethane Enamel

I'm sure some of you have painted fiberglass decks. What are some of
the
secrets you learned while doing the work? Any tricks?

What paint did you use? How about prep? Did you work around the
stanchion
bases, etc.?

The thought of taking all the hardware off the deck is
..................
&^%$#

I got to thinking, choose a small area and do that then do another
area.
Try to keep the job manageable.

Any input.

Roll and Tip is well documented at various on-line sites. Here's a
good place to start:

http://www.yachtpaint.com/USA/hotlin...ion_manual.pdf

Unlike traditional 'paint', 2 part LPU's have a consistency (viscosity)
not much different than water. One applies them in multiple, very thin
coats allowing sufficient cure time between coats. Too, the humidity
must be - and remain at - well below 50% from application through
initial cure, or you'll lose gloss. This mens that patience is
required, waiting for the right day to apply the paint (which probably
won't coincide with your life schedule,,,). Precision is a key to
success with LPU - it's not difficult to apply, but surface prparation
(including an epoxy based primer) are mandatory.

Do consider what effect applying any paint to your deck will have on
the existing non-skid surface (if any).

MW


Thomas Wentworth wrote:
Frank ,, thanks for the input but the spraying deal won't work.. the marina
would go nuts. I did email a couple of sailors who told me how they painted
their decks with two part, used a roller and tipped with brush.

On Mon, 18 Sep 2006 22:20:41 GMT, "Thomas Wentworth"
wrote:


What brand two part ? .. tell me more..

Frank Boettcher replied:
Imron, Awlgrip, or any other two part catalyzed polyurethane. Should
be sprayed. Be careful, wear breathing protection. Other than that
sprays like an acrilic enamel.

Frank,
Just a curiosity question: I have read a number of stories about people
repainting their boats with 2 part paints. Do they first remove the
Gelcoat down to fiberglass, or is the polyurethane painted over the
Gelcoat? Inquiring minds want to know. Thanks

On Fri, 22 Sep 2006 10:58:48 -0400, Sailaway
wrote:

On Mon, 18 Sep 2006 22:20:41 GMT, "Thomas Wentworth"
wrote:


What brand two part ? .. tell me more..

Frank Boettcher replied:
Imron, Awlgrip, or any other two part catalyzed polyurethane. Should
be sprayed. Be careful, wear breathing protection. Other than that
sprays like an acrilic enamel.

Frank,
Just a curiosity question: I have read a number of stories about people
repainting their boats with 2 part paints. Do they first remove the
Gelcoat down to fiberglass, or is the polyurethane painted over the
Gelcoat? Inquiring minds want to know. Thanks

I've never heard of anyone removing the gelcoat to overcoat with
Catpoly. I didn't, although I had to feather in a number of repairs
when I was fixing some core rot areas.

Frank