On Mon, 03 Jul 2006 00:24:46 -0500, sherwindu
wrote:

I can line up the boat with the slip, but a strong current will throw my stern down
stream. I can maintain steerage going in, but if I enter too fast I am in danger of
hitting the concrete wall at the front of the slip. These are slips with small metal
piers
pointing into the river. There are two slips between each pier, with a wooden post
at the head of the slip dividing the slip for two boats. I have to avoid hitting the
pier,
the wooden piling, and/or the boat in the downstream side of the slip.

Sherwin D.

Yi, that's ugly. I guess you're on the waiting list for a slip on the
downstream side of the slot and the upstream slips are much more
readily available.

If it's a short finger-pier, man, I thought I had it tough with a
downwind double-finger that was 6 inches wider than my boat beam.

What about accepting a clunk as inevitable and hanging a long fender
board overboard and nestling the aft quarter of your boat into the
post and pulling it upstream from the pier?

Thanks for all the tips. I guess I was looking more for a maneuvering solution using
the engine (both forward and reverse) to offset the current. I'm also going to ask my
neighboring boat owners how they manage to handle the current.

Sherwin D.

Dick Locke wrote:

On Mon, 03 Jul 2006 00:24:46 -0500, sherwindu
wrote:

I can line up the boat with the slip, but a strong current will throw my stern down
stream. I can maintain steerage going in, but if I enter too fast I am in danger of
hitting the concrete wall at the front of the slip. These are slips with small metal
piers
pointing into the river. There are two slips between each pier, with a wooden post
at the head of the slip dividing the slip for two boats. I have to avoid hitting the
pier,
the wooden piling, and/or the boat in the downstream side of the slip.

Sherwin D.

Yi, that's ugly. I guess you're on the waiting list for a slip on the
downstream side of the slot and the upstream slips are much more
readily available.

If it's a short finger-pier, man, I thought I had it tough with a
downwind double-finger that was 6 inches wider than my boat beam.

What about accepting a clunk as inevitable and hanging a long fender
board overboard and nestling the aft quarter of your boat into the
post and pulling it upstream from the pier?

On Mon, 03 Jul 2006 11:45:06 -0500, sherwindu
wrote:

Thanks for all the tips. I guess I was looking more for a maneuvering solution using
the engine (both forward and reverse) to offset the current. I'm also going to ask my
neighboring boat owners how they manage to handle the current.

Sherwin D.



Depending on which way your stern walks in reverse (probably not a
strong effect with a small outboard propellor) you might be able to
come in at a fairly good speed, have someone jump off and secure the
bow while you reverse like hell to pull the stern toward the dock.

On Sat, 01 Jul 2006 23:45:20 -0500, sherwindu
wrote:

It's a bit tricky, and there is a tendency for
the stern
to swing downstream before we have a chance to get a line to it. Any
suggestions?

Many boats (not all) will lay to the pier against considerable wind or
current with a judicious application of power and helm against a
springline. With the spring running aft from your midships cleat, a
small amount of power will cause the spring to pull the bow right
against the pier. A bit of rudder (or outboard traverse) will push
the stern in. Of course, the spring should be short enough to keep
the bow from hitting anything else, and it should run aft to the end
of the finger pier, not straight out to the side.

On my boat, I try to cut power and coast into the slip. I either
grap the spring from the dock, or (if away from home) drop a loop on
the dock cleat with about 2/3 of a boat length of slack. When the
spring is secured at both ends, the remaining momentum of the boat
will start it over to the side. I put the engine in gear at idle,
dial in a bit of rudder, and wait for everything to stop moving. It's
just that easy.

Obviously, the critical part is to get the spring on before you are
too far into the slip. But if you aren't going too fast, you have
time to fall back on Plan B. That's why I coast into the slip and add
power only when the spring is fastened.

YMMV - very beamy boats with poor rudder authority might not take well
to this tactic.


__________________________________________________ __________
Glen "Wiley" Wilson usenet1 SPAMNIX at world wide wiley dot com
To reply, lose the capitals and do the obvious.

Take a look at cpRepeater, my NMEA data integrator, repeater, and
logger at http://www.worldwidewiley.com/

Glen \"Wiley\" Wilson wrote:

On Sat, 01 Jul 2006 23:45:20 -0500, sherwindu
wrote:

It's a bit tricky, and there is a tendency for
the stern
to swing downstream before we have a chance to get a line to it. Any
suggestions?

Many boats (not all) will lay to the pier against considerable wind or
current with a judicious application of power and helm against a
springline. With the spring running aft from your midships cleat, a
small amount of power will cause the spring to pull the bow right
against the pier. A bit of rudder (or outboard traverse) will push
the stern in. Of course, the spring should be short enough to keep
the bow from hitting anything else, and it should run aft to the end
of the finger pier, not straight out to the side.

On my boat, I try to cut power and coast into the slip. I either
grap the spring from the dock, or (if away from home) drop a loop on
the dock cleat with about 2/3 of a boat length of slack. When the
spring is secured at both ends, the remaining momentum of the boat
will start it over to the side. I put the engine in gear at idle,
dial in a bit of rudder, and wait for everything to stop moving. It's
just that easy.

Obviously, the critical part is to get the spring on before you are
too far into the slip. But if you aren't going too fast, you have
time to fall back on Plan B. That's why I coast into the slip and add
power only when the spring is fastened.

YMMV - very beamy boats with poor rudder authority might not take well
to this tactic.

__________________________________________________ __________
Glen "Wiley" Wilson usenet1 SPAMNIX at world wide wiley dot com
To reply, lose the capitals and do the obvious.

Take a look at cpRepeater, my NMEA data integrator, repeater, and
logger at http://www.worldwidewiley.com/

Glen,

Your recommendations sound like they would be good for securing the boat once
it is in
the slip, not helping to position the boat while it is entering. If there
were no side current,
one would have more time to grab spring lines, etc. However, going in slowly
may find
you being pushed into the next slip before you have time to take corrective
measures.
The slower you enter the slip, the more time the side current has to push the
boat over.
The best thing I can think of is to aim the boat just upstream of the slip,
so that on approach
you are reasonably lined up for entry. The problem then becomes holding
that allignment
as you enter the slip. There are generally two of us aboard, one on the
engine and the other
there to fend off, which doesn't leave much room for error. The reason I am
hanging on to
this slip is that it is reasonably inexpensive and very convenient for
access to my vehicle.

Sherwin

sherwindu wrote:
Glen \"Wiley\" Wilson wrote:

On Sat, 01 Jul 2006 23:45:20 -0500, sherwindu
wrote:

It's a bit tricky, and there is a tendency for
the stern
to swing downstream before we have a chance to get a line to it. Any
suggestions?

Many boats (not all) will lay to the pier against considerable wind or
current with a judicious application of power and helm against a
springline. With the spring running aft from your midships cleat, a
small amount of power will cause the spring to pull the bow right
against the pier. A bit of rudder (or outboard traverse) will push
the stern in. Of course, the spring should be short enough to keep
the bow from hitting anything else, and it should run aft to the end
of the finger pier, not straight out to the side.

On my boat, I try to cut power and coast into the slip. I either
grap the spring from the dock, or (if away from home) drop a loop on
the dock cleat with about 2/3 of a boat length of slack. When the
spring is secured at both ends, the remaining momentum of the boat
will start it over to the side. I put the engine in gear at idle,
dial in a bit of rudder, and wait for everything to stop moving. It's
just that easy.

Obviously, the critical part is to get the spring on before you are
too far into the slip. But if you aren't going too fast, you have
time to fall back on Plan B. That's why I coast into the slip and add
power only when the spring is fastened.

YMMV - very beamy boats with poor rudder authority might not take well
to this tactic.

__________________________________________________ __________
Glen "Wiley" Wilson usenet1 SPAMNIX at world wide wiley dot com
To reply, lose the capitals and do the obvious.

Take a look at cpRepeater, my NMEA data integrator, repeater, and
logger at http://www.worldwidewiley.com/

Glen,

Your recommendations sound like they would be good for securing the boat once
it is in
the slip, not helping to position the boat while it is entering. If there
were no side current,
one would have more time to grab spring lines, etc. However, going in slowly
may find
you being pushed into the next slip before you have time to take corrective
measures.
The slower you enter the slip, the more time the side current has to push the
boat over.
The best thing I can think of is to aim the boat just upstream of the slip,
so that on approach
you are reasonably lined up for entry. The problem then becomes holding
that allignment
as you enter the slip. There are generally two of us aboard, one on the
engine and the other
there to fend off, which doesn't leave much room for error. The reason I am
hanging on to
this slip is that it is reasonably inexpensive and very convenient for
access to my vehicle.

OK, I'm trying to visualize this - originally I thought it would be
better to come in going upstream which would be the natural way to
approach the slip, against the current so you would have more control.

How about leaving a spring line on the upstream piling, and coming the
other way (going with the current), and putting the side of the boat
next to the pier/dock which has the spring line on it while still
parallel to the current. Have the non-engine person pick up this line
and cleat it down fairly short a bit aft of center and then warp
yourself around this piling into the slip, using the current and the
engine to help you get perpendicular to it.

We have a problem with our boat being a modified full keel, with a lot
of windage and very heavy, so that I can't - by myself- hold the boat
against current or wind if there is any that is significant. Also,
our slip is longer than our boat, so if the boat is nicely in the
slip, we can't reach the last pilings - we have to do that on the way
into the slip. But it doesn't look like you have those problems - so
after you get the boat secured in the middle, you let the current put
the boat parallel to the slip. The stern won't be able to swing too
far because it is cleated down.




grandma Rosalie

S/V RosalieAnn, Leonardtown, MD
CSY 44 WO #156
http://home.mindspring.com/~gmbeasley/id1.html

"Rosalie B." wrote:

OK, I'm trying to visualize this - originally I thought it would be
better to come in going upstream which would be the natural way to
approach the slip, against the current so you would have more control.

In this case the slip is oriented perpendicular to the current. My approach
to the slip takes me beam to the current.



How about leaving a spring line on the upstream piling,

There is no upstream piling, just the iron jetty protruding into the river.

and coming the
other way (going with the current), and putting the side of the boat
next to the pier/dock which has the spring line on it while still
parallel to the current. Have the non-engine person pick up this line
and cleat it down fairly short a bit aft of center and then warp
yourself around this piling into the slip, using the current and the
engine to help you get perpendicular to it.

There is no time to do all this. The current will have pushed me into the
next slip before I can make use of this spring line. We would have to
enter quickly and that puts us at more risk of hitting the wall at the end
of the slip. Going slowly allows the current time to push us over.



We have a problem with our boat being a modified full keel, with a lot
of windage and very heavy, so that I can't - by myself- hold the boat
against current or wind if there is any that is significant. Also,
our slip is longer than our boat, so if the boat is nicely in the
slip, we can't reach the last pilings - we have to do that on the way
into the slip. But it doesn't look like you have those problems - so
after you get the boat secured in the middle, you let the current put
the boat parallel to the slip. The stern won't be able to swing too
far because it is cleated down.

grandma Rosalie

S/V RosalieAnn, Leonardtown, MD
CSY 44 WO #156
http://home.mindspring.com/~gmbeasley/id1.html

sherwindu wrote:
"Rosalie B." wrote:

OK, I'm trying to visualize this - originally I thought it would be
better to come in going upstream which would be the natural way to
approach the slip, against the current so you would have more control.

In this case the slip is oriented perpendicular to the current. My approach
to the slip takes me beam to the current.

Why? If I am coming up a river, I am parallel to the current. If I
am going down the river, I'm parallel to the current. It is only when
I turn to go into the slip that I am beam to the current. I was
thinking of getting to the area of the slip as part of the approach -
not just the actual turn into the slip.

How about leaving a spring line on the upstream piling,

There is no upstream piling, just the iron jetty protruding into the river.

Are there no line attachments on the jetty? Like cleats or something
of that sort?

and coming the
other way (going with the current), and putting the side of the boat
next to the pier/dock which has the spring line on it while still
parallel to the current. Have the non-engine person pick up this line
and cleat it down fairly short a bit aft of center and then warp
yourself around this piling into the slip, using the current and the
engine to help you get perpendicular to it.

There is no time to do all this. The current will have pushed me into the
next slip before I can make use of this spring line. We would have to
enter quickly and that puts us at more risk of hitting the wall at the end
of the slip. Going slowly allows the current time to push us over.

There is time if you get the line before you do any turning beam to
the current while you are still going with (or against) the current.

We have a problem with our boat being a modified full keel, with a lot
of windage and very heavy, so that I can't - by myself- hold the boat
against current or wind if there is any that is significant. Also,
our slip is longer than our boat, so if the boat is nicely in the
slip, we can't reach the last pilings - we have to do that on the way
into the slip. But it doesn't look like you have those problems - so
after you get the boat secured in the middle, you let the current put
the boat parallel to the slip. The stern won't be able to swing too
far because it is cleated down.

I think Glen has the idea. Mount a line on the piling at the end of
your slip finger, then have your crew stand on the bow. Come in like
you do now but get the bow close enough that the crew member can reach
the line. If they miss the line, no problems as you have not
commited to docking yet. Just back out, and try again until the crew
has the spring line in hand before starting to end the slip.

Once the have it, then you let the bow fall off a bit to line up with
your slip and proceed in. During this time the crew member walks the
line back to a mid-ship cleat and takes one wrap. As you proceed in,
the boat will start to drift down stream. With your crew member
holding the spring line and taking up slack and you giving some
forward power, this will pull your boat back to your side of the
docks. Continue in slowly with the crew member slipping the spring
line through the cleat (this is why they took a turn as opposed to
made it fast) as you proceed in. When you get to where you want, the
crew member makes the spring fast. Leave the motor in forward, and
the action will pin your boat to your upstream finger. Then retrieve
the rest of the lines. After all is set you can cut the power.

If you dont have a piling at the end of your dock, you can tie the
spring line to the dock and affix some stand pipe which would hold the
free end of the spring line ready and at a height that is easy for the
crew member to reach.

This will also work at a visiting dock, but the crew member has to be
good at 'lassoing' a piling or dock cleat :-)

Hope this helps.
-al-


On Mon, 03 Jul 2006 23:22:39 -0500, sherwindu
wrote:



Glen \"Wiley\" Wilson wrote:

On Sat, 01 Jul 2006 23:45:20 -0500, sherwindu
wrote:

It's a bit tricky, and there is a tendency for
the stern
to swing downstream before we have a chance to get a line to it. Any
suggestions?

Many boats (not all) will lay to the pier against considerable wind or
current with a judicious application of power and helm against a
springline. With the spring running aft from your midships cleat, a
small amount of power will cause the spring to pull the bow right
against the pier. A bit of rudder (or outboard traverse) will push
the stern in. Of course, the spring should be short enough to keep
the bow from hitting anything else, and it should run aft to the end
of the finger pier, not straight out to the side.

On my boat, I try to cut power and coast into the slip. I either
grap the spring from the dock, or (if away from home) drop a loop on
the dock cleat with about 2/3 of a boat length of slack. When the
spring is secured at both ends, the remaining momentum of the boat
will start it over to the side. I put the engine in gear at idle,
dial in a bit of rudder, and wait for everything to stop moving. It's
just that easy.

Obviously, the critical part is to get the spring on before you are
too far into the slip. But if you aren't going too fast, you have
time to fall back on Plan B. That's why I coast into the slip and add
power only when the spring is fastened.

YMMV - very beamy boats with poor rudder authority might not take well
to this tactic.

__________________________________________________ __________
Glen "Wiley" Wilson usenet1 SPAMNIX at world wide wiley dot com
To reply, lose the capitals and do the obvious.

Take a look at cpRepeater, my NMEA data integrator, repeater, and
logger at http://www.worldwidewiley.com/

Glen,

Your recommendations sound like they would be good for securing the boat once
it is in
the slip, not helping to position the boat while it is entering. If there
were no side current,
one would have more time to grab spring lines, etc. However, going in slowly
may find
you being pushed into the next slip before you have time to take corrective
measures.
The slower you enter the slip, the more time the side current has to push the
boat over.
The best thing I can think of is to aim the boat just upstream of the slip,
so that on approach
you are reasonably lined up for entry. The problem then becomes holding
that allignment
as you enter the slip. There are generally two of us aboard, one on the
engine and the other
there to fend off, which doesn't leave much room for error. The reason I am
hanging on to
this slip is that it is reasonably inexpensive and very convenient for
access to my vehicle.

Sherwin

Al Thomason wrote:

I think Glen has the idea. Mount a line on the piling at the end of
your slip finger, then have your crew stand on the bow. Come in like
you do now but get the bow close enough that the crew member can reach
the line. If they miss the line, no problems as you have not
commited to docking yet. Just back out, and try again until the crew
has the spring line in hand before starting to end the slip.

Sorry, but this sounds too tricky, especially with a current pushing on the boat
all the time.



Once the have it, then you let the bow fall off a bit to line up with
your slip and proceed in. During this time the crew member walks the
line back to a mid-ship cleat and takes one wrap.

While the crew member is walking back, the current has already swept me into
the downstream piling, or worse yet, the boat in the next slip.

As you proceed in,
the boat will start to drift down stream. With your crew member
holding the spring line and taking up slack and you giving some
forward power, this will pull your boat back to your side of the
docks. Continue in slowly with the crew member slipping the spring
line through the cleat (this is why they took a turn as opposed to
made it fast) as you proceed in. When you get to where you want, the
crew member makes the spring fast. Leave the motor in forward, and
the action will pin your boat to your upstream finger. Then retrieve
the rest of the lines. After all is set you can cut the power.

If you dont have a piling at the end of your dock, you can tie the
spring line to the dock and affix some stand pipe which would hold the
free end of the spring line ready and at a height that is easy for the
crew member to reach.

This will also work at a visiting dock, but the crew member has to be
good at 'lassoing' a piling or dock cleat :-)

Hope this helps.

All these things would work if there were no strong current constantly
pushing the boat on the beam. You would then have lots of time and
a forgiveness factor if you mess up.

I think Rosalie might have an idea with these cross ropes to catch the
boat, as it enters the slip.


-al-