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Its a bit pricey, but you can put in an Echo Charge ($129 from West,
as low as $100 elsewhere) that will limit the current to 15 Amps. I just set up up for my two starting batteries, which are latched together for charging with a combiner. Frankly, I would (in fact I did) simply run the big wires and forgo the dedicated battery. Since the engine is usually running when we haul anchor, this allows the windlass to be driven by the higher alternator voltage, which overcomes the voltage drop of the wires. The complications of mounting another battery, and maintaining it seems far worse than running a pair of heavy wires. BTW, the "hammer crimp" tool for heavy wire (West, about $40) works just fine for adding lugs after running the wire. Doin it right wrote: I want to install a windlass, but cabling it from my batteries with large wires is a major job. I am thinking of placing a dedicated battery up with the windlass and running smaller wires from the main bank where the charger lives Question: How do you protect the smaller wire from over current? I am thinking about a situation where the windlass battery is dead. The windlass will try to draw current from the other bank. I can/will install a breaker of course. But I was wondering if there are any other tips and tricks in respect to the installation I have in mind. Basically the house bank is charged from a charger/inverter, engine and solar bank. There is a large (4 gauge I think) pair of wires that feed from the batteries to a breaker panel half way to the windlass location. I was thinking of running the new wires from the breaker panel to the windlass location, with the understanding that when charging, the voltage and current from the charge source will come from the breaker panel. Anybody have an thoughts to share? Thanks! |
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